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Just bought a 2007 is250 with 155k miles. Transmission shifts very smoothly. I do not know if the fluid was previously changed. Having heard stories of problems developing with trans fluid changes in high mileage cars, is it likely safe to change?
Don't hesitate. Those are stories from the past when fluid technology is a fraction of what it was even 15 years ago.
If you ever stumble upon varnished fluid you will know. Those are ones you risk making internal leaks in as varnish builds up stopping leaks. Adding new high detergent fluid breaks down the buildup and the tranny dies. Dead fluid in a functional trans will be yellow and smell like turpentine. No mistaking it.
You are safe. Swap some fluid...
Drain and Fill, the safest way of doing transmission fluid change. Pretty much the same protocol as showed in the video. Changed mine to Amsoil 2 years ago, wouldn't use anything else. Take care of your car, it will take care of you.
Drain and Fill, the safest way of doing transmission fluid change. Pretty much the same protocol as showed in the video. Changed mine to Amsoil 2 years ago, wouldn't use anything else. Take care of your car, it will take care of you.
There's actually a big 24mm filler bolt on the side of the pan. A clear tube and gravity allows to fill the pan without buying a siphon pump.
If Amsoil ATF is anywhere as good as it's Synchromesh MT fluid, that is probably what I will do. I had a 2018 Honda Civic Si, the MT was not smooth at all, very notchy etc. My first Oil change at 7K I changed out the OEM Honda MT fluid for Amsoil Synchromesh...it was like night and day! On my current 2010 IS350 which is about 3K short of 60K, I am going to change the Differential fluid with Amsoil Gear oil. I have two bottles sitting in my garage
If Amsoil ATF is anywhere as good as it's Synchromesh MT fluid, that is probably what I will do. I had a 2018 Honda Civic Si, the MT was not smooth at all, very notchy etc. My first Oil change at 7K I changed out the OEM Honda MT fluid for Amsoil Synchromesh...it was like night and day! On my current 2010 IS350 which is about 3K short of 60K, I am going to change the Differential fluid with Amsoil Gear oil. I have two bottles sitting in my garage
I've been using the Mobil LS 75w-90 for 50K miles so far.
Both front and rear diffs. I have yet to experience any issues. I'm wondering if I should change it, or not. My last GS400 had royal purple in the rear diff about 30k till I sold it. What benefits will the Amsoil do? I'd rather just pick up something locally.
I've been using the Mobil LS 75w-90 for 50K miles so far.
Both front and rear diffs. I have yet to experience any issues. I'm wondering if I should change it, or not. My last GS400 had royal purple in the rear diff about 30k till I sold it. What benefits will the Amsoil do? I'd rather just pick up something locally.
My experience with Amsoil has basically been with their Synchromesh MT fluid. Because it is fully synthetic, it has higher shear for a more stable viscosity, and has a higher viscosity at 100 C. Also you can go longer on it between changes. When I had my Civic Si, the manual transmission change interval with OEM Honda fluid is 25K, and with Amsoil it is between 50K and 100K. When I changed out the OEM MT fluid for Amsoil Synchromesh, it literally made the transmission as well as shifting smoother...night and day smoother.
To buy it locally you would need to find an independent Amsoil dealer. I found buying online was quick and easy, they delivered it in a few days after ordering
The Toyota ATF is made by ExxonMobile. The Original factory fill was AISIN ATF. I was an Amsoil Fanboy for years but there are many oils out there that are just as good for 1/3rd the price. But nothing wrong with Amsoil and if you don't mind spending the extra, it's a great product.
Attached is a pic from the case of Toyota WS I just purchased. I believe it's synthetic from what I have read. So was the AISIN factory fill.
Last edited by Mrfix; 12-19-19 at 10:52 AM.
Reason: Spelling
The Toyota ATF is made by ExxonMobile. The Original factory fill was AISIN ATF. I was an Amsoil Fanboy for years but there are many oils out there that are just as good for 1/3rd the price. But nothing wrong with Amsoil and if you don't mind spending the extra, it's a great product.
Attached is a pic from the case of Toyota WS I just purchased. I believe it's synthetic from what I have read. So was the AISIN factory fill.
Yeah the oil debates would literally go on forever. Out of all the cars I've owned, or family owned as well. I've yet to see one blow up for some kind of mishap due to inferior oils.
My thought this time around I'd pick up Amsoil 80W-90 for the front differential, and 75W-85 from Redline. As those are the appropriate weights for the AWD according to the manual.
The Toyota ATF is made by ExxonMobile. The Original factory fill was AISIN ATF. I was an Amsoil Fanboy for years but there are many oils out there that are just as good for 1/3rd the price. But nothing wrong with Amsoil and if you don't mind spending the extra, it's a great product.
Attached is a pic from the case of Toyota WS I just purchased. I believe it's synthetic from what I have read. So was the AISIN factory fill.
This is what I used when I changed the ATF in my 2013 Sienna at 100K (Toyota WS ATF). I definitely stay away from Amsoil Motor oil, way overpriced. I will use this same ATF in your pic on my IS350. The reason I am using Amsoil Severe Gear oil in my Differential is I only need two bottles, so that is not to expensive. I think you need 6 to 8 quarts of ATF for the trans and using Amsoil for that can get very expensive!
My experience with Amsoil has basically been with their Synchromesh MT fluid. Because it is fully synthetic, it has higher shear for a more stable viscosity, and has a higher viscosity at 100 C. Also you can go longer on it between changes. When I had my Civic Si, the manual transmission change interval with OEM Honda fluid is 25K, and with Amsoil it is between 50K and 100K. When I changed out the OEM MT fluid for Amsoil Synchromesh, it literally made the transmission as well as shifting smoother...night and day smoother.
To buy it locally you would need to find an independent Amsoil dealer. I found buying online was quick and easy, they delivered it in a few days after ordering
Mini story like yours, but I dumped a name brand synthetic after 1,700 miles in my street bike as I could tell instantly from the oil change that the product caused vibes, very notchy shifting, I was missing shifts, oil/water temp elevated, and frankly it just didn't Rev like normal. I felt like I was doing damage to the engine and trans. I dumped it and tried the over priced motorcycle Amsoil. And guess what, all of that went away! The bike is super happy, the temperature dropped, shifting is proper and I've been ripping on it for 6 years on Amsoil.
So, other than the bike, like you I use Amsoil where it stays for longer uses like the diff, transfer case, transmission, but not as a disposable for the crankcase in the cage. Amsoil is not in the crankcase as I log 17k mi a year and the Yoda spec'd the 350 with dino oil at 5k intervals. That said, good clean oil fine there and I have Amsoil for the up and coming rear Diff Swap. PS - I never envisioned filling a diff with 80W250 but that's what they recommend!
Mini story like yours, but I dumped a name brand synthetic after 1,700 miles in my street bike as I could tell instantly from the oil change that the product caused vibes, very notchy shifting, I was missing shifts, oil/water temp elevated, and frankly it just didn't Rev like normal. I felt like I was doing damage to the engine and trans. I dumped it and tried the over priced motorcycle Amsoil. And guess what, all of that went away! The bike is super happy, the temperature dropped, shifting is proper and I've been ripping on it for 6 years on Amsoil.
So, other than the bike, like you I use Amsoil where it stays for longer uses like the diff, transfer case, transmission, but not as a disposable for the crankcase in the cage. Amsoil is not in the crankcase as I log 17k mi a year and the Yoda spec'd the 350 with dino oil at 5k intervals. That said, good clean oil fine there and I have Amsoil for the up and coming rear Diff Swap. PS - I never envisioned filling a diff with 80W250 but that's what they recommend!
Yep, for engine I use Idemitsu 5w30 synthetic which I bought a few gallon containers on Amazon when they were on sale for $26 each (I currently have two gallons left), when I do the trans I will just use the Toyota ATF, and for the Differential I will use Amsoil Synthetic gear oil, which for my IS350 recommended 75w90
Drain and Fill, the safest way of doing transmission fluid change. Pretty much the same protocol as showed in the video. Changed mine to Amsoil 2 years ago, wouldn't use anything else. Take care of your car, it will take care of you.
I noticed in the one video that he changed the trans filter. My local Lexus dealer indicated it is a screen, not a filter, and is basically not necessary to change a screen. Any thoughts?
I have gone ahead and told dealer to do a drain and fill because car was there having three recalls fixed. I gave the dealer a Blackstone lab bottle to take a sample...we will see the results.
I noticed in the one video that he changed the trans filter. My local Lexus dealer indicated it is a screen, not a filter, and is basically not necessary to change a screen. Any thoughts?
I have gone ahead and told dealer to do a drain and fill because car was there having three recalls fixed. I gave the dealer a Blackstone lab bottle to take a sample...we will see the results.
Your guy needs an update. The industry hasn't used a mesh screen since the 60's and 70's. The old method was to backflush the screen to clean it but that never really worked either, it left it full of debris that is now stirred up and ready for circulation through the trans which is the opposite of what you want. Pretty much all vehicles now run a multilayered element that does a pretty good job of capturing particulates and not letting them go even if backflushed.
I guess the question is; do you change the engine oil filter ever 6000 mi? If yes, why would one leave the trans filter in place if the pan is down AND it has 60k, 90k, 150K miles on it? If restricted, you can starve the pump and ruin the trans. At the very least you get extra oil out by dropping it and it's cheap insurance towards keeping sediment from recirculating through your trans.
For the record; those old mesh screen filters were just as big of housing as what we see today. They just happened to be all metal construction. And yes, I have a gasket, O'ring, and filter on work bench waiting for spring when it all gets changed. It is definitely not a mesh screen strainer.
Your guy needs an update. The industry hasn't used a mesh screen since the 60's and 70's. The old method was to backflush the screen to clean it but that never really worked either, it left it full of debris that is now stirred up and ready for circulation through the trans which is the opposite of what you want. Pretty much all vehicles now run a multilayered element that does a pretty good job of capturing particulates and not letting them go even if backflushed.
I guess the question is; do you change the engine oil filter ever 6000 mi? If yes, why would one leave the trans filter in place if the pan is down AND it has 60k, 90k, 150K miles on it? If restricted, you can starve the pump and ruin the trans. At the very least you get extra oil out by dropping it and it's cheap insurance towards keeping sediment from recirculating through your trans.
For the record; those old mesh screen filters were just as big of housing as what we see today. They just happened to be all metal construction. And yes, I have a gasket, O'ring, and filter on work bench waiting for spring when it all gets changed. It is definitely not a mesh screen strainer.
I am curious where you get the filter, all I see are strainers. The only place I have seen filters are from eBay, and I trust eBay for auto pars as far as I can throw an elephant. There are so many fake Chinese parts on eBay, someone I know even got a fake set of NGK spark plugs on eBay. He found out when it blew one of his Cylinders
FWIW: We didn't see what engine the GS had but they also used the the A760 trans which has a fill plug on the case under a plastic cover on the left side. Remove the cover, remove the bolt, fill the pan.... The guys comments crack me up. He's likely just another sales guy as he doesn't appear to know jack about transmissions at a technical level. Change the filter to remove carbon from your transmission. lol
I'm writing to SAY DO NOT DO WHAT THEY DID AND RANDOMLY DRAIN AND FILL YOUR TRANSMISSION!!!! The overflow tube is meant to be done at a specified oil temperature WHICH THEY DID NOT BOTHER TO CHECK and/or show us they checked it!!! Point: worst case is you do this at home and IF the transmission is too hot and it overflows; IT WILL BE LOW ON FLUID when driving if it was over temperature when it overflowed. It only takes about 15 minutes of engine run time for the fluid to exceed the 100F check point.
I'm just saying; do your research before doing this or you could ruin your transmission. If you intend to skip the temperature check, your best bet is to have the car in the air overnight, drain it, fill it when cold, and check within the first 10min of starting it as it will soon be at 100F.
Adding to this; If you want more fluid out of the trans during your dump and fill; start the engine for 5 seconds after you drain the pan. More fluid will be pumped from the torque converter into the pan.
12-18-19, 07:08 PM
High Mileage Transmission Fluid Change
