Losing break fluid
12-27-19, 11:38 AM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Losing break fluid
Hi.
My car was in the body shop for 3 weeks getting a brand new paint
When they delivered the car I notice the Ebreak light was litting on the cluster. My frist thought was the Ebreak position sensor because I still got break and it still runing strong. So I checked my break fluid and yes it is below the LOW mark.
Trying to find the leak. I fill up the break fluid to normal operating level and parked the car on a flat surface and leave it for a night.
Next morning, surprisingly there were no puddle or drip on the floor.
I brought the car to my good friend shop. We lift the car up trying to look for leaks around the calipers and lines and we still could not find anything
The last thing we did check was the break master cylinder in the engine bay and VOILA! It was leaking fluid into the break booster. Luckily I had parts laying around so we did the swop then suck the fluid out of the booster (about 500cc was taken out) and bleed the break system on all 4 corner.
The only symtom I had rather than the Ebreak light on the dash was that the car took a little longer to fire up on cold start and run rough for the first few seconds. I thought it was from the E85 map I had but the real cause was that the engine sucks break fluid from the booster to the combustion chamber. After the replacement cold start is back to normal.
I know this is uncommon for 2IS but it could happen. It another thing that you could look out for
Thanks!
My car was in the body shop for 3 weeks getting a brand new paint
When they delivered the car I notice the Ebreak light was litting on the cluster. My frist thought was the Ebreak position sensor because I still got break and it still runing strong. So I checked my break fluid and yes it is below the LOW mark.
Trying to find the leak. I fill up the break fluid to normal operating level and parked the car on a flat surface and leave it for a night.
Next morning, surprisingly there were no puddle or drip on the floor.
I brought the car to my good friend shop. We lift the car up trying to look for leaks around the calipers and lines and we still could not find anything
The last thing we did check was the break master cylinder in the engine bay and VOILA! It was leaking fluid into the break booster. Luckily I had parts laying around so we did the swop then suck the fluid out of the booster (about 500cc was taken out) and bleed the break system on all 4 corner.
The only symtom I had rather than the Ebreak light on the dash was that the car took a little longer to fire up on cold start and run rough for the first few seconds. I thought it was from the E85 map I had but the real cause was that the engine sucks break fluid from the booster to the combustion chamber. After the replacement cold start is back to normal.
I know this is uncommon for 2IS but it could happen. It another thing that you could look out for
Thanks!
12-27-19, 01:07 PM
#2
If I'm not mistaken, your car is in a high humidity environment. That said, brake fluid needs flushed more often as it absorbs moisture.
So, the best bet is to change the fluid every 2 years. Suck out the old, pour in the new and push it through to all four corners manually bleeding each corner starting at the rigjt rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Do so on the lowest humidity day possible using only new fluid from a new unopened container.
Glad you found the issue before crashing! Nothing worse than applying brakes and having NO BRAKES!
Now that I've said all of that, what is the cars history? Has the fluid been flushed regularly?
So, the best bet is to change the fluid every 2 years. Suck out the old, pour in the new and push it through to all four corners manually bleeding each corner starting at the rigjt rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Do so on the lowest humidity day possible using only new fluid from a new unopened container.
Glad you found the issue before crashing! Nothing worse than applying brakes and having NO BRAKES!
Now that I've said all of that, what is the cars history? Has the fluid been flushed regularly?
12-28-19, 08:12 AM
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
If I'm not mistaken, your car is in a high humidity environment. That said, brake fluid needs flushed more often as it absorbs moisture.
So, the best bet is to change the fluid every 2 years. Suck out the old, pour in the new and push it through to all four corners manually bleeding each corner starting at the rigjt rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Do so on the lowest humidity day possible using only new fluid from a new unopened container.
Glad you found the issue before crashing! Nothing worse than applying brakes and having NO BRAKES!
Now that I've said all of that, what is the cars history? Has the fluid been flushed regularly?
So, the best bet is to change the fluid every 2 years. Suck out the old, pour in the new and push it through to all four corners manually bleeding each corner starting at the rigjt rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Do so on the lowest humidity day possible using only new fluid from a new unopened container.
Glad you found the issue before crashing! Nothing worse than applying brakes and having NO BRAKES!
Now that I've said all of that, what is the cars history? Has the fluid been flushed regularly?
Currently the car is running ISF Calipers with Brembo pads. I tried to change out the fluid every 2 years with Dot4 fluid. And you are correct about the humidity during the rainy season it is crazy high.
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