2IS Help Me Decipher Whats Happening With My Engine!!
01-08-20, 11:48 AM
#16
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Some fuel system cleaner - a strong concentration of it will also help.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
01-08-20, 11:57 AM
#17
01-08-20, 12:05 PM
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01-08-20, 12:19 PM
#19
Very much appreciate the input guys. I'll try give the car a work out more often and I'll definitely give the products recommended a shot.
Unfortunately where I live, garages that could properly troubleshoot the injectors are non existent. No equipment or the skills required to do so. Only option would be to replace and hope for the best.
Do you think changing the MAF would help? With a brand new one this time.
Unfortunately where I live, garages that could properly troubleshoot the injectors are non existent. No equipment or the skills required to do so. Only option would be to replace and hope for the best.
Do you think changing the MAF would help? With a brand new one this time.
01-08-20, 12:33 PM
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01-08-20, 12:43 PM
#21
So what did your fuel trims look like after an ECU reset.
FYI the ECU only needs anything over 15mins to reset. Whether it's fuse or battery method.
The one minute thing is just to reset a check engine light. If your car doesn't stall once after ecu is reset it's not a full reset.
Also are you getting any rough idle?
01-08-20, 01:32 PM
#22
Some fuel system cleaner - a strong concentration of it will also help.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
01-08-20, 01:36 PM
#23
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So what did your fuel trims look like after an ECU reset.
FYI the ECU only needs anything over 15mins to reset. Whether it's fuse or battery method.
The one minute thing is just to reset a check engine light. If your car doesn't stall once after ecu is reset it's not a full reset.
Also are you getting any rough idle?
FYI the ECU only needs anything over 15mins to reset. Whether it's fuse or battery method.
The one minute thing is just to reset a check engine light. If your car doesn't stall once after ecu is reset it's not a full reset.
Also are you getting any rough idle?
To perform the reset, I unplugged the negative battery terminal for close to an hour. After the reset, the car came close but didn't stall. Revs dropped to slightly below 500rpm. After a 20min drive, revs were back to 700.
No rough idle and no engine CEL's when operating normally. I forgot to check if any CEL's registered after the reset.
01-08-20, 01:42 PM
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01-08-20, 02:27 PM
#25
So do you guys think we can simply chalk it up to poor fuel quality and bad driving habits? (Short distance.)
Also, for the low idle, could need a throttle body and idle air control valve clean.
What is the check engine light for?
Also, for the low idle, could need a throttle body and idle air control valve clean.
What is the check engine light for?
01-08-20, 03:09 PM
#27
Some fuel system cleaner - a strong concentration of it will also help.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
I was doing some research. It says your fuel pressure is 8050 kPag, or roughly 1150PSI which is insanely high. That must be a mistake or something, I do not see how such a high pressure is even possible. I think your fuel pump is the culprit.
Please be careful as to what you post as it can really lead people astray when the content is completely wrong.
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Moisture (01-08-20)
01-08-20, 04:17 PM
#28
These are DI engines. Normal is based on demand which can be as low as 1650 PSI or up to 2500 PSI. Maybe higher.
There is no IACV as this is Throttle By Wire (TBW) which omits this hardware in this case.
Please be careful as to what you post as it can really lead people astray when the content is completely wrong.
There is no IACV as this is Throttle By Wire (TBW) which omits this hardware in this case.
Please be careful as to what you post as it can really lead people astray when the content is completely wrong.
Thank you.
Could you please explain more about A/F values and what numbers are acceptable during different scenarios? Etc. idle, full throttle, steady cruise, etc.
01-09-20, 12:13 AM
#29
IT IS UR OIL CATCH CAN! i just went through this dilemma for months trying many different MAF sensors, o2 sensors, air intake set ups, changed spark plugs, and tried different size hoses going to my oil catch can. Finally i said screw it and pluged in the vacuum hoses the way they came from factory. Boom all good. It stressed me out for months. Since the car seem to drive fine i didnt even think twice that it would be the oil catch can. I have been driving w/o the catch can untill i find one that wont screw with the fuel trims. Your fuel pressure is fine. As matter of fact most of ur data seems good and the fuel trims will or should go back to normal after u take the occ out. Let us all know if u end up trying this.
Aathon H.
Aathon H.