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Thanks for letting me know, so would this be a good thing happening then?
I would just wait and see. It doesn't sound like there is really anything to worry about. Just keep an eye on your oil levels. On my previous daily driver I use to be extremely **** with keeping track of oil consumption but that was because it had a lot more miles than my current car and I was extending the oil change interval. I noticed with that car that oil levels would be extremely inconsistent between changes. Sometimes I would have to add a quart and other times it was perfectly fine between changes. I ended up changing out the valve seals on that car and it made a world of difference.
Within this thread there is reference to plugged PCV causing oil consumption. FALSE! If anything it would reduce oil consumption THROUGH the engine as the oil vapor in the crankcase NO longer have a path into the intake. However, this can result in pressurizing the crankcase which leads to oil leaks through gaskets and seals.
End game: it can lead to oil loss but not by burning it.
A plugged PCV likely hoses up the idle as the the crankcase valve cover vents and PC Valve are a source of metered air. That said, the ECU likely adjust for this slow loss of the valve sticking open or shut.
Within this thread there is reference to plugged PCV causing oil consumption. FALSE! If anything it would reduce oil consumption THROUGH the engine as the oil vapor in the crankcase NO longer have a path into the intake. However, this can result in pressurizing the crankcase which leads to oil leaks through gaskets and seals.
End game: it can lead to oil loss but not by burning it.
A plugged PCV likely hoses up the idle as the the crankcase valve cover vents and PC Valve are a source of metered air. That said, the ECU likely adjust for this slow loss of the valve sticking open or shut.
FSport, I have a question for you. So there is the PCV on the driver side valve cover and then there is a breather tube that feeds into the intake on the passenger side valve cover. What's the difference? I don't understand the reasoning of the PCV being a check valve on the one valve cover but then just an open tube to the intake on the other valve cover.
Each time the hot engine is shut down, condensation occurs inside. This will kill an engine if not removed. Think sludge build up! By flowing air through the engine from one valve cover to the other, it makes a draft allowing moisture and excess oil vapor to be burned in the combustion process.
In the ideal world, a good valve cover design allows the oil vapor to condense back to a solid and return to the crankcase for the oil pump to recirculate it and there is no loss. This is not always true....
In reality some engineering fails do stupid things like not using a louvered grid before the port or simply having an open port where any oil vapor that hasn't condensed to a solid, gets sucked up and burned in the intake tract. I've seen many manufacturers do this like they thought there would be no consequences.... If this process could suck out all the moisture, removing it forever, that would be perfect!!!
As for the valve, at idle, while coasting, and during most driving conditions, the PC valve is open allowing scavenging. When you mash the throttle WOT and vacuum drops to zero, it typically closes unless blowby past the rings is pressurizing the crankcase, then it remains open and oil vapors continue to be burned in combustion.
This leaves one other condition which is more prone to carburetor days vs EFI days and that is backfires where the fuel air mixture in the intake plenum gets ignited and tries to blow the intake apart! Typically this does not go unnoticed! Anyone who has set the ignition timing wrong will know the sound and the consequences. In this condition, the PC valve closes so those flames do not enter the crankcases and ignite the oil vapor blow the oil pan off the engine with an even larger explosion. In short, a safety device from the 1960's....
*I think* our vehicles also use a solenoid to do some of the air metering through the engine as I see a solenoid in the path. It's actual function ????
OMFG - i left something out! It also, when the engine is off, prevents crankcase vapors from at least one side of the engine from adding oil vapor to the intake that makes it all nasty.
I've always thought that was moot point as when off, **SOME** of the intake valves are open and those stagnant combustion fumes fill the intake with crap making it more nasty.....
Hence many short trips making engines unhealthy. Adding to this // is that possible??? // why higher RPM running increases port velocity that removes some this crap....
Such a viscous circle....
I've mentioned this before but BG PN 109 EPR worked for my consumption. By unplugging the oil drain holes in the piston exactly described in this thread. That is what it was designed to do. Still no consumption after about 15k miles. 20k total, BG used about 15k ago. Do your research but it's a great product.
I've mentioned this before but BG PN 109 EPR worked for my consumption. By unplugging the oil drain holes in the piston exactly described in this thread. That is what it was designed to do. Still no consumption after about 15k miles. 20k total, BG used about 15k ago. Do your research but it's a great product.
Good to hear. Can you share how the vehicle is used?
JM2C but those utube videos of plugged return holes and massive piston skirt scuffing, are truly the worst case of the worst ever.
These products are primarily removing glaze and carbon from the top rings so the combustion gases can get behind the compression rings and expand them and reduce blow by. But without a tear down, no way to know...
2013Fsport - daily commute is 12 miles one way, mostly highway. I only do 7-8k miles a year. But it does see 6k-rpm pulls on the regular. I've only done a few long trips, and the current oil has 5k on it with a ~1000 mile trip. Still no consumption.
I agree with the only real way to know is a tear-down. But I'm not the only one who has seen positive results from BG.
2013Fsport - daily commute is 12 miles one way, mostly highway. I only do 7-8k miles a year. But it does see 6k-rpm pulls on the regular. I've only done a few long trips, and the current oil has 5k on it with a ~1000 mile trip. Still no consumption.
I agree with the only real way to know is a tear-down. But I'm not the only one who has seen positive results from BG.
Interesting, I did see someone post about using that BG cleaner and it stopped their oil consumption... now I am at 3k miles on my 5k oci and still no oil drop hoorray!! If consumption increases I may look into this if it stays the same I dont think I will need it then.
Quick update: 3k miles on my 5k oci, using a wix oil filter with PP 5w30. I am now always driving in normal mode without snow mode and always try my best to rev the car slightly over 2k or a little under so it shifts well. I did recently go 3 digits for a couple seconds, which I never usually do... but afterwards my engine oil was darker than before
Anyways I do not have consumption yet at 3k so far which is good since the oil used to drop around this mileage. I have a new pcv valve which I will install this oci as well. I know that I dont drive it as hard as I used too (saw redline every week) so maybe that helps with the consumption drop?
ALSO before I bought the car the PO said it sat for awhile, maybe months or a year.. could this have caused the rings to seize? So maybe when I had it in the beginning and it had more aggressive pulls that did some magic, which is what I am thinking...Anyways just wanted to give an update with the current situation, I believe with the high mph I went recently maybe it helped or it caused more harm?
Next oci will have oem toyota filter and Pup 5w30.
So now my is350 has 4k miles since its oil has been changed and it has not burned or dropped any oil since it was changed.
I made a more detailed writeup here on BITOG
So I used pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 for the first 3 oil changes and it came out very dark but each one after that the color was more clean so it did have some affect. I now just use pennzoil platinum 5w30 and it was done at walmart.
The italian tune ups I believe did something to my engine, and because it sat for a year before I purchased it I believe the rings were an issue or something else.... but anyways I am truly happy since this will positively affect my resale value!!!! The PUP 5w30 may also have had a small affect too but oils always debateable like in BITOG anyways when I reach my 5k mark I will do one last update regarding my consumption, and the next 5k oil change I will do the last update when thats done.
heres some pics, walmart tags 3k so not caring about it until the oil light pops up close to 5k.