IS350 Oil Consumption Dropped!
The following users liked this post:
ncatona (06-23-20)
07-02-20, 04:26 PM
#33
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update: So recently I started to drive the car more aggresively since thats when I believe it starts to burn oil and I found out it truly does when doing so. I dont mean driving it in the normal drive mode which I do if pushing it but I used the manual modes and I kept the rpms high and outside temps were 94+ and I did this with some good pulls from 30 to 60 just to test the oil consumption and it did drop a bit, I never drive the car like this but I knew it would consume some oil when pushed this hard.
So im currently at the 4500 oci mark and burnt basically nothing until I drove it like this recently... so from what I can see when driving normally and even when driving aggressively in the normal drive mode the car hasnt burnt any oil
but these high manual mode rpms does make it consume oil and quite a bit... since Ive only done it recently 3 or 4 times just to test the oil.
I will send pics of how much oil I lost as well its now below the top hash mark, so you can compare to my previous photo earlier.
So im currently at the 4500 oci mark and burnt basically nothing until I drove it like this recently... so from what I can see when driving normally and even when driving aggressively in the normal drive mode the car hasnt burnt any oil
but these high manual mode rpms does make it consume oil and quite a bit... since Ive only done it recently 3 or 4 times just to test the oil.I will send pics of how much oil I lost as well its now below the top hash mark, so you can compare to my previous photo earlier.
Last edited by ncatona; 07-03-20 at 11:10 AM.
07-24-20, 10:29 AM
#34
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Clearest photo of what the level is at.
I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 this interval.
07-24-20, 10:43 AM
#35
No change of oil brand, filter, potion, additive or any combination thereof will make any substantial or meaningful difference on an engine that consumes oil. I know from experience, and with general knowledge of how engines work. Sure you can substantially increase viscosity of oil and reduce consumption, but you'll also create additional wear due to flow properties. Putting you back to square one.
Driving gently, however, can and will cause a reduction in consumption.
Also depends on what's causing the consumption--usually worn oil control ring sets or clogged drainback at the piston. The latter can be remedied by cleaners, however not super likely. If your engine is worn, its worn. Either rebuild or drive and add oil.
The best thing to do on a healthy engine to prevent issues later is obviously change oil and filter often. Beyond that, it's up to the inherent design of the engine.
Driving gently, however, can and will cause a reduction in consumption.
Also depends on what's causing the consumption--usually worn oil control ring sets or clogged drainback at the piston. The latter can be remedied by cleaners, however not super likely. If your engine is worn, its worn. Either rebuild or drive and add oil.
The best thing to do on a healthy engine to prevent issues later is obviously change oil and filter often. Beyond that, it's up to the inherent design of the engine.
The following users liked this post:
ncatona (08-19-20)
07-28-20, 08:45 AM
#36
No change of oil brand, filter, potion, additive or any combination thereof will make any substantial or meaningful difference on an engine that consumes oil. I know from experience, and with general knowledge of how engines work. Sure you can substantially increase viscosity of oil and reduce consumption, but you'll also create additional wear due to flow properties. Putting you back to square one.
Driving gently, however, can and will cause a reduction in consumption.
Also depends on what's causing the consumption--usually worn oil control ring sets or clogged drainback at the piston. The latter can be remedied by cleaners, however not super likely. If your engine is worn, its worn. Either rebuild or drive and add oil.
The best thing to do on a healthy engine to prevent issues later is obviously change oil and filter often. Beyond that, it's up to the inherent design of the engine.
Driving gently, however, can and will cause a reduction in consumption.
Also depends on what's causing the consumption--usually worn oil control ring sets or clogged drainback at the piston. The latter can be remedied by cleaners, however not super likely. If your engine is worn, its worn. Either rebuild or drive and add oil.
The best thing to do on a healthy engine to prevent issues later is obviously change oil and filter often. Beyond that, it's up to the inherent design of the engine.
Treating them with kid gloves does no good. The basic steps to long life are allowing it to get to operating temp before hammer down WOT, maintaining proper OCI, opening them up when warm to remove carbon, and don't neglect by running around with misfire codes and crap like that. Its very damaging but thats a whole nother topic.
I've 4 engines up to 350,000 miles with nothing more than PM's required at intervals required. And yes, they see RPM RPMs often. But never upon cold start.
08-17-20, 09:42 AM
#38
My life experience has a different outcome and opinion. Having rebuilt perhaps 35 engines, the bulk of the most worn, damaged, sludged up, came from grocery getters that never got opened up. Then in there history, someone does take grandma's car and open it up, those top rings meet a ledge of carbon and get fouled scoring the rings, piston, and cylinder walls. In addition, the lack of being worked, pulling RPM's, occludes the intake and exhaust ports, valves and combustion chamber with carbon.
Treating them with kid gloves does no good. The basic steps to long life are allowing it to get to operating temp before hammer down WOT, maintaining proper OCI, opening them up when warm to remove carbon, and don't neglect by running around with misfire codes and crap like that. Its very damaging but thats a whole nother topic.
I've 4 engines up to 350,000 miles with nothing more than PM's required at intervals required. And yes, they see RPM RPMs often. But never upon cold start.
Treating them with kid gloves does no good. The basic steps to long life are allowing it to get to operating temp before hammer down WOT, maintaining proper OCI, opening them up when warm to remove carbon, and don't neglect by running around with misfire codes and crap like that. Its very damaging but thats a whole nother topic.
I've 4 engines up to 350,000 miles with nothing more than PM's required at intervals required. And yes, they see RPM RPMs often. But never upon cold start.
If the car recommends 0w20 all year, would you put 5w30 or 0w30 during summer, and switch back to 0w20 in winter?
Do you think putting 0w30/5w30 helps with oil consumption?
And lastly, would you put the Yamaha ring free on any car/engine (ex turbo or supercharged), or is it meant for specific engines?
08-17-20, 08:01 PM
#39
I have a couple of questions.
If the car recommends 0w20 all year, would you put 5w30 or 0w30 during summer, and switch back to 0w20 in winter?
Do you think putting 0w30/5w30 helps with oil consumption?
And lastly, would you put the Yamaha ring free on any car/engine (ex turbo or supercharged), or is it meant for specific engines?
If the car recommends 0w20 all year, would you put 5w30 or 0w30 during summer, and switch back to 0w20 in winter?
Do you think putting 0w30/5w30 helps with oil consumption?
And lastly, would you put the Yamaha ring free on any car/engine (ex turbo or supercharged), or is it meant for specific engines?
As for the ring free, it was originally designed for 2 stroke outboard engines by Yamaha and Chevron. Later they modified it for use in 4 stroke engines. I'd run it if the engine is an oil burner but you must change the oil afterwards. Especially if turbo'd.
08-18-20, 03:13 AM
#40
Even if your engine consumes oil, I'd run the recommended oil weight for the climate. Being north of here, the 0W20 should be fine unless the temps breach 85F and you're consistently pulling long hills. The engine tolerances in these things are so tight, higher weight oils starve critical components and increase wear.
As for the ring free, it was originally designed for 2 stroke outboard engines by Yamaha and Chevron. Later they modified it for use in 4 stroke engines. I'd run it if the engine is an oil burner but you must change the oil afterwards. Especially if turbo'd.
As for the ring free, it was originally designed for 2 stroke outboard engines by Yamaha and Chevron. Later they modified it for use in 4 stroke engines. I'd run it if the engine is an oil burner but you must change the oil afterwards. Especially if turbo'd.
08-18-20, 07:30 AM
#42
Honestly I would say its 10 days total a year that we get 104F. Might not be worth it, as most other days (in summer that is) are around 60F to say 95F.
Maybe I will (and should anyway) take it easy on days that are 100F+
Am surprised lexus recommends such a thin oil instead of 5w30 or 5w40
08-18-20, 10:26 AM
#43
Nice.
Honestly I would say its 10 days total a year that we get 104F. Might not be worth it, as most other days (in summer that is) are around 60F to say 95F.
Maybe I will (and should anyway) take it easy on days that are 100F+
Am surprised lexus recommends such a thin oil instead of 5w30 or 5w40
Honestly I would say its 10 days total a year that we get 104F. Might not be worth it, as most other days (in summer that is) are around 60F to say 95F.
Maybe I will (and should anyway) take it easy on days that are 100F+
Am surprised lexus recommends such a thin oil instead of 5w30 or 5w40
How much oil is being lost on the vehicle in question and what is its daily life all about?
Mine gets started twice a day, travels 30mi each way and gets shut off. Its a easy life for all systems vs kids to school at 8, dog to doggy care at 9, shopping. Lunch at noon and then pickup everyone up. Those cars that do 10 short trips, never reach operating temp, never pull a long steep hill, those are technically severe duty but no one changes oil based on the facts.
So, that example goes through starters, batteries, alternators, CATs, plugs, O2 sensors, and soon enough burn and consume oil as well as sludge up.
The following users liked this post:
ncatona (08-19-20)
The following users liked this post:
ncatona (08-19-20)
08-18-20, 03:31 PM
#45
Just so I understand...
Ring free should not be used if the car doesnot burn oil, fine, but what am not sure if it does or not, or what if it burns a little, does it hurt anything in any way to throw in a can every 10,000 miles for example?
Another question I had, is how does it suppose to work? It goes through the fuel injector, usually it will burn through the combustion chamber (with fuel), how does it get to reach the oil piston rings (and wouldn't that mean that actual fuel does as well)?
Sorry for my newbie questions, if they are indeed newbie
Ring free should not be used if the car doesnot burn oil, fine, but what am not sure if it does or not, or what if it burns a little, does it hurt anything in any way to throw in a can every 10,000 miles for example?
Another question I had, is how does it suppose to work? It goes through the fuel injector, usually it will burn through the combustion chamber (with fuel), how does it get to reach the oil piston rings (and wouldn't that mean that actual fuel does as well)?
Sorry for my newbie questions, if they are indeed newbie