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Doesn't Valvoline blue restore do the same thing as Ring Free?
^^ I've never heard of it.
Originally Posted by Waffles17
Just so I understand...
Ring free should not be used if the car doesnot burn oil, fine, but what am not sure if it does or not, or what if it burns a little, does it hurt anything in any way to throw in a can every 10,000 miles for example?
Another question I had, is how does it suppose to work? It goes through the fuel injector, usually it will burn through the combustion chamber (with fuel), how does it get to reach the oil piston rings (and wouldn't that mean that actual fuel does as well)?
Sorry for my newbie questions, if they are indeed newbie
I wouldn't say it shouldn't as it does two things. It cleans the fuel system and removes some level of carbon and ash buildup from injectors, piston crown, and valves within the combustion chamber.
The top piston ring lands on these engines are ported. As compression builds/gasses burn, the pressure gets to the ports to expand the rings from the inside out. If blocked you loose compression and blowby past the 1st and 2nd rings occurs. This places combustion gasses at the oil scrapper rings that vent to the crankcase so, if the rings are leaking, the treatment goes down the piston skirt through the scrapper rings and some level of cleaning occurs. Hence the need to dump the oil when the treatment is gone as carbon has entered the crankcase oil.
At some level most all engines have blow by under heavy loads when the pistons rock. They just don't do it enough to consume oil. If they didn't, the oil would last much longer...
I wouldn't say it shouldn't as it does two things. It cleans the fuel system and removes some level of carbon and ash buildup from injectors, piston crown, and valves within the combustion chamber.
The top piston ring lands on these engines are ported. As compression builds/gasses burn, the pressure gets to the ports to expand the rings from the inside out. If blocked you loose compression and blowby past the 1st and 2nd rings occurs. This places combustion gasses at the oil scrapper rings that vent to the crankcase so, if the rings are leaking, the treatment goes down the piston skirt through the scrapper rings and some level of cleaning occurs. Hence the need to dump the oil when the treatment is gone as carbon has entered the crankcase oil.
At some level most all engines have blow by under heavy loads when the pistons rock. They just don't do it enough to consume oil. If they didn't, the oil would last much longer...
I did not fully grasp what you said, most likely because I don't know or understand the full detailed operational workings of everything involved. All I know is the first two rings are for compression, and the third for keeping the oil from reaching the top two rings, and therefore the combustion chamber (of that's actually the case).
But what I would like to know, if someone loses oil in their engine, is it the third oil scrapper that's bad, or not necessarily?
Does the yamalube therefore help that third oil scrapper to work better?
BTW is the ring free similar to seafoam or are they two completely different things?
Just realized that Ring Free is a gas additive, and Blue Restore is engine oil!
Either way, both are meant to free stuck rings.
Blue Restore was formulated in conjunction with Cummins to solve oil consumption issues with Cummins engines, The oil was supposed to obviate, or at least partially obviate, the need for an engine tear down to solve the oil consumption issues caused by coked rings. Blue Restore appears to work pretty well, judging by all the mentions on BITOG and other sites.
Oil consumption can be from valve guides, external leaks, or piston rings. So no, it is not all the oil scrapper. The block has oil squirters for the piston crown. This oil is being shot up into the inside of the piston to cool and lubricate it. This reduces detonation.
The piston on the way down scrapes the oil off the cylinder wall so as the piston goes up, the rings don't float compression gasses past the top two rings through the oil film. In short they work together. Proper oil changes matter to reduce varnish and carbon build up. As any of the rings faulter, it compromises the efficiency of the engine and oil loss can increase.
Oil consumption can be from valve guides, external leaks, or piston rings. So no, it is not all the oil scrapper. The block has oil squirters for the piston crown. This oil is being shot up into the inside of the piston to cool and lubricate it. This reduces detonation.
The piston on the way down scrapes the oil off the cylinder wall so as the piston goes up, the rings don't float compression gasses past the top two rings through the oil film. In short they work together. Proper oil changes matter to reduce varnish and carbon build up. As any of the rings faulter, it compromises the efficiency of the engine and oil loss can increase.
Thanks. Now that I have a better idea, the ring free treatment is aimed for the first two rings or the oil?
Would not the contents of the treatment explode wirh the fuel and spark? How would it actually stay post-explosion to do anything?
Just realized that Ring Free is a gas additive, and Blue Restore is engine oil!
Either way, both are meant to free stuck rings.
Blue Restore was formulated in conjunction with Cummins to solve oil consumption issues with Cummins engines, The oil was supposed to obviate, or at least partially obviate, the need for an engine tear down to solve the oil consumption issues caused by coked rings. Blue Restore appears to work pretty well, judging by all the mentions on BITOG and other sites.
I never used it, but if I had oil consumption issues linked to piston rings, I would probably try Blue Restore.
someone with a 3rd gen prius started running this and the engine for the prius burnt less oil with the valvoline restore in the system, its in a prius forum with a big thread about it.
Heres my threads on bitog, I made two over time and it has a link to one that gets more indepth. After 6+ oci with PUP 5w30 and PP 5w30 which is pennzoil platinum, I have now finally stopped burning oil!!! I will be driving the car much more reserved like in the beginning of my ownership and hopefully I wont loose over a quart of oil while doing it 😆😆. I am now on my end of the 6th oci with pennzoil and I havent lost any oil so Im extremely happy with that.
I guess I missed few posts. The ringfree product is burned in combustion but most engines are only 85% efficient. The combined effort works to clean the upper end (rings upwards).
I would start with Ringfree first and then move on to clean internally. That said, simply do a filter change at 2500 miles and top off what is missing as you don't want the filter getting bypassed due to being plugged...
Fingers crossed that your machine continues life on this same path. JM2C but I wouldn't baby it. Open it up occasionally so loose soot can free itself of the combustion chamber and exhaust system. Look for a black cloud in the mirror!
I guess I missed few posts. The ringfree product is burned in combustion but most engines are only 85% efficient. The combined effort works to clean the upper end (rings upwards).
I would start with Ringfree first and then move on to clean internally. That said, simply do a filter change at 2500 miles and top off what is missing as you don't want the filter getting bypassed due to being plugged...
Fingers crossed that your machine continues life on this same path. JM2C but I wouldn't baby it. Open it up occasionally so loose soot can free itself of the combustion chamber and exhaust system. Look for a black cloud in the mirror!
Oh you got it. It will be seeing lower rpms now for the most part, but I will open it up once in awhile.
this youtube video sums it up, proper oil change intervals with good oil helps mitigate this toyota engine problem with low tension rings. Mine is an 06 is350, and in the video I had the phase 1 burning. I have been consistent with 5k oci and full syn pennzoil with some WOT helped clean those piston holes and rings. And another oci update im at the 3k mark with no noticeable consumption yet!
I don't know if it is true with this particular engine but I heard one of the issues with Toyota engines are undersized oil return holes in the pistons. Carbon eventually plugs them up. When this happens, oil is pushed into the combustion chamber. There is no additive that can unplug those holes. The pistons have to be pulled and the holes drilled out.
What is interesting about what OP posted is that I have actually noticed the EXACT same thing happening. My oil consumption has dropped. I have no clue why it is happening. This is on a IS250. It just doesn't make sense. The valve seals and piston ring hole blockage are the two main causes of oil consumption on a high mileage engine. Both get worse with time and neither magically fixes itself. One thing I noticed recently was a lack of oil in my intake from the passenger side valve cover breather. I pulled my intake off yesterday to clean the MAF and the throttle body. In the past there has always been a trail of oil in the intake from that breather port to the throttle body but it was perfectly clean this time. I'm just grabbing straws here but I also cleaned my MAF because I was getting a P0172 and P0175 trouble code. Those codes are for a system running too rich. Again, I'm just reaching here, but maybe having a engine running too rich artificially decreased blow by that was pushing oil into the intake plenum.
2013Fsport - daily commute is 12 miles one way, mostly highway. I only do 7-8k miles a year. But it does see 6k-rpm pulls on the regular. I've only done a few long trips, and the current oil has 5k on it with a ~1000 mile trip. Still no consumption.
I agree with the only real way to know is a tear-down. But I'm not the only one who has seen positive results from BG.
any consumption updates? I think if it has wide open throttle every now and then with good oil it cleans those holes amd rings good without the use of the BG product.
No change of oil brand, filter, potion, additive or any combination thereof will make any substantial or meaningful difference on an engine that consumes oil. I know from experience, and with general knowledge of how engines work. Sure you can substantially increase viscosity of oil and reduce consumption, but you'll also create additional wear due to flow properties. Putting you back to square one.
Driving gently, however, can and will cause a reduction in consumption.
Also depends on what's causing the consumption--usually worn oil control ring sets or clogged drainback at the piston. The latter can be remedied by cleaners, however not super likely. If your engine is worn, its worn. Either rebuild or drive and add oil.
The best thing to do on a healthy engine to prevent issues later is obviously change oil and filter often. Beyond that, it's up to the inherent design of the engine.
you are correct with the good clean oil and proper oil change intervals too, this youtube video posted above hits the nail on the head.
I'm just over 160k on my IS350 and just starting to experience the beginning stages of oil consumption. Noticed it last month when my maintenance and check oil level light simultaneously came on. Burned about 1qt over 5k miles. Lexus claims its normal - but to me car has never burned any oil since 30k. 5k oil changes on the dot at Lexus and is not shy from WOT. Similar to @ncatona, I seem to burn oil at higher RPM not under normal driving.
Though this is not enough consumption to cause concern but I do want to get ahead of it and hit 250k+ without adding 1qt every 1000 miles. I am thinking of switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 HM with shorter intervals at 3k and hope it helps free deposits on the rings? I have also read mixed reviews on the engine flush cleaners. What I don't want to do is accelerate the oil consumption.
Has anyone tried using oil additives with good results where it stopped?
I'm just over 160k on my IS350 and just starting to experience the beginning stages of oil consumption. Noticed it last month when my maintenance and check oil level light simultaneously came on. Burned about 1qt over 5k miles. Lexus claims its normal - but to me car has never burned any oil since 30k. 5k oil changes on the dot at Lexus and is not shy from WOT. Similar to @ncatona, I seem to burn oil at higher RPM not under normal driving.
Though this is not enough consumption to cause concern but I do want to get ahead of it and hit 250k+ without adding 1qt every 1000 miles. I am thinking of switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 HM with shorter intervals at 3k and hope it helps free deposits on the rings? I have also read mixed reviews on the engine flush cleaners. What I don't want to do is accelerate the oil consumption.
Has anyone tried using oil additives with good results where it stopped?
Take care about mobil 1. In Europe they have a new worse fórmula
08-18-20, 06:51 PM
