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So I have bled the cooling system, but I dont know if Im doing it right 100%.
i put the heater on high amd max fan setting, and let it idle like that for a bit and rev the car up for a few seconds then drop and air comes out.
Other times I have turned off the heater and had the fan turn on which means the thermostat has opened and did that 4 times. But I still have air in the system now just not as much as before.... the water sound in the morning is a lot less and does not last nearly as long as before.
so is there something specific I should do when bleeding the cooling system?
So I have bled the cooling system, but I dont know if Im doing it right 100%.
i put the heater on high amd max fan setting, and let it idle like that for a bit and rev the car up for a few seconds then drop and air comes out.
Other times I have turned off the heater and had the fan turn on which means the thermostat has opened and did that 4 times. But I still have air in the system now just not as much as before.... the water sound in the morning is a lot less and does not last nearly as long as before.
so is there something specific I should do when bleeding the cooling system?
I'd recommend that you get the Lisle funnel. You're just introducing more air into the system with cap method.
The funnel will aid with that problem. Once fans kick on, and thermostat opens. As the water level drops, and air is being pushed out. It will pull coolant instead of air again. Think of is as the same the reservoir tank works. The suction hose is at the bottom of the tank so it's not introducing air into the system.
I'd recommend that you get the Lisle funnel. You're just introducing more air into the system with cap method.
The funnel will aid with that problem. Once fans kick on, and thermostat opens. As the water level drops, and air is being pushed out. It will pull coolant instead of air again. Think of is as the same the reservoir tank works. The suction hose is at the bottom of the tank so it's not introducing air into the system.
I actually just got one two days ago hahaha, its verrry usefull since I wont spill coolant around and also get a ton of air outta the system without worrying about overflowing.
Alright everyone I have a major update.
So unfortunately I am loosing coolant somewhere some how. I have bled the car perfectly one day for 2 hours, and the next day which is today I checked my overflow tank and it was low again.... and then I opened my Rad cap and there was no coolant there like when I first checked it earlier this week, so I filled it up again today and it seems like its loosing coolant only from the top since its a small amount that I loose and somehow the overflow tank as well.
Also when I was bleeding the system some black particles kept coming out of the coolant... so somethings happening maybe the hoses are rotting or something.
Anyways I will take it to a shop and have them pressure test the cooling system to find the leak.
Also I am so glad that I found out about this issue since it started from the rushing water sound in my dash which was related to an IS250 with the same issue.
let me know what steps I should take next? Do the system test and go from there?? Also the car has got 122k and idk if anything in the cooling system has been changed besides my cap and the coolant itself.
FWIW: It could take like 6 heat cycles on a good closed system to suck the coolant from the reservoir and fill the block air free. The fact that the reservoir went down and not up, implies the system is filling up the block and working as it should.
FWIW: It could take like 6 heat cycles on a good closed system to suck the coolant from the reservoir and fill the block air free. The fact that the reservoir went down and not up, implies the system is filling up the block and working as it should.
I would hold off action wise.... JM2C!
So this is so wierd. I toped it up yesterday bescause it was low on fluid and I checked again today and now the fluid is not low anymore and back up on a cold engine and the overflow tank wasn't low...... but I also tightened a rad hose that seemed to leak which was the part connected to the rad on top.
Update: Well glad I found my cap was broken and it also resolved my low coolant issue which I never knew about, it was related to the top hose connected to the rad, I lost the og clamp it had and bought another screw type from napa instead and tightened that up... since then the coolant has not dropped so for some reason maybe overtime that clamp lost its strength and it explains why the coolant was low only at the top of the rad. The overflow tank fluid has not dropped since then either.
I will update if anything else hould happen, but oyherwise thank you all for the support!
And no more water rushing sound from the dash anymore 😁 so the airs out, I will still bleed it one last time just to make sure.
Update: Well glad I found my cap was broken and it also resolved my low coolant issue which I never knew about, it was related to the top hose connected to the rad, I lost the og clamp it had and bought another screw type from napa instead and tightened that up... since then the coolant has not dropped so for some reason maybe overtime that clamp lost its strength and it explains why the coolant was low only at the top of the rad. The overflow tank fluid has not dropped since then either.
I will update if anything else hould happen, but oyherwise thank you all for the support!
And no more water rushing sound from the dash anymore 😁 so the airs out, I will still bleed it one last time just to make sure.
For anyone needing to replace clamps. I'd recommend some constant tension clamps. Pictured below they add a more consistent sealing pressure. Also automatic re-tensioning during temperatures changes.
For anyone needing to replace clamps. I'd recommend some constant tension clamps. Pictured below they add a more consistent sealing pressure. Also automatic re-tensioning during temperatures changes.
^^ Especially on small hoses. Even if you don't buy the spring kind, the 360° coverage bolt style is far better at applying 360° of tension than the worm-drive clamps that induce a flat spot and leak.
So now I have no issues with the coolant system, but I am wondering whats the best thing to do going forward. Should I replace this hose and get a new oem clamp? Since this clamp could loose tension overtime should I go back to oem or get one of the fancier clamps stated earlier?
As long as it's holding now, I'd leave it be. Over time, the hose adheres to the radiator neck anyways. Some cars I've worked on actually required force to persuade the hose to be removed from the radiator.
As long as it's holding now, I'd leave it be. Over time, the hose adheres to the radiator neck anyways. Some cars I've worked on actually required force to persuade the hose to be removed from the radiator.
JM2C but I'd swap the clamp for one offering No flat spots as it can crack plastic. The one Mike pictured is good, it also comes w/out the spring.
Unless you recently drained and refilled the system, I highly doubt you have any air in the system. As for the radiator cap, it seems the middle piece likes to break on older/higher mileage cars when it's removed, so you can simply just replace it.
Common leak areas on these cars: overflow reservoir cap (this is a known issue, and even brand new reservoir caps leak which is why the reservoir is low occasionally. I've personally gone through 2 and have learned to just live with it), and the water pump weep hole (you'll have to replace it at this point if it's leaking from there).
Nope, this is common among every Toyota I've ever owned since 1996. I don't think it's an issue because I've never had any of my Toyotas over-heat or lose any significant amount of coolant except my 2006 Camry 3 years ago (around 140K) when the radiator cracked. I might top off the coolant a little in my cars every 6 months. I have the same bottle of Toyota coolant sitting in my garage for the last 5 years, and its still about half full
02-14-20, 08:28 AM
