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I was just wondering if there are special ways to fit the thick decoder box into the high beam or the headlight housing? I'm sure everyone who has bought an item from iJDMTOY knows about those really thick decoder boxes.
I want to avoid drilling anything as much as possible, so can anyone give some instructions on how to fit this decoder in here without drilling it?
I know people have unscrewed the box of the decoder so it is just wires, but my decoder has no screws (that I can see) so I don't think that is an option for me.
The boxes have a screw under the sticker. You can take them apart and put a 2 inch shrink tube to wrap the electrical board. Then only can you stuff them in the housing. Heat the wrap with a blow dryer to shrink the tube.
The boxes have a screw under the sticker. You can take them apart and put a 2 inch shrink tube to wrap the electrical board. Then only can you stuff them in the housing. Heat the wrap with a blow dryer to shrink the tube.
I dont see any screw around the decoder box. No sticker either.
I dont see any screw around the decoder box. No sticker either.
They may of changed the design. I've had mine for quite some time years wise. You'll have to figure a way to open them up to expose the electrical board. They could of potted the board now too. If that's the case then you could just stuff it in the housing without heat shrink. You won't know until the box cover is removed.
They may of changed the design. I've had mine for quite some time years wise. You'll have to figure a way to open them up to expose the electrical board. They could of potted the board now too. If that's the case then you could just stuff it in the housing without heat shrink. You won't know until the box cover is removed.
Which one did you get? Maybe I can just exchange what I got for what you have.
which DRL product did you get though? I might have to just exchange my whole set, not just the decoder
At the time I was running their first production run of this bulb for stock headlights. It was rated at 50W then down the road they discontinued it for an 80W version. Now that seems to be discontinued for their 100W seen on the link below.
I now am running the VipmotoZ head lights with the same R4 decoder with H1 bulbs from iJdmtoy. Cree style leds seem to be the brightest of the bunch. They match perfectly to HID 5k bulbs.
At the time I was running their first production run of this bulb for stock headlights. It was rated at 50W then down the road they discontinued it for an 80W version. Now that seems to be discontinued for their 100W seen on the link below.
I now am running the VipmotoZ head lights with the same R4 decoder with H1 bulbs from iJdmtoy. Cree style leds seem to be the brightest of the bunch. They match perfectly to HID 5k bulbs.
Do you happen to know if there are any DRL bulb that are plug and play, but give off a white light instead of a yellow? And maybe doesn't need a decoder?
Do you happen to know if there are any DRL bulb that are plug and play, but give off a white light instead of a yellow? And maybe doesn't need a decoder?
You'll never achieve this the DRL's run on 30% power. Any halogen bulb needs to be powered correctly to show its true brightness.
This is the reason the decoder exists to make led's run at maximum.
There is no way around this just on regulur bulbs. If you don't use a decoder on led bulbs they will flicker constantly. Last option is to get the dealer to turn of the DRL function.
You'll never achieve this the DRL's run on 30% power. Any halogen bulb needs to be powered correctly to show its true brightness.
This is the reason the decoder exists to make led's run at maximum.
There is no way around this just on regulur bulbs. If you don't use a decoder on led bulbs they will flicker constantly. Last option is to get the dealer to turn of the DRL function.
Thank you so much for clearing it up. It just sucks right now that I have no idea how to complete this project unless I forget about the high beam housing, which I know I should not do. I was thinking about breaking my decoder box somehow but seems like a bad move imo. You think I can find a smaller decoder somewhere?
At one point iJdmtoy did make a slim decoder. They decided it was unpopular so they stopped offering it. Maybe you can reach out to them. Also you could reach out to multiple LED bulb sellers. Most of them have all sorts of items available. You could give them the dimensions needed to enter the cutout for the high beam.
At one point iJdmtoy did make a slim decoder. They decided it was unpopular so they stopped offering it. Maybe you can reach out to them. Also you could reach out to multiple LED bulb sellers. Most of them have all sorts of items available. You could give them the dimensions needed to enter the cutout for the high beam.
i talked to iJDM and they said to just leave the wires hanging out and that the housing will not get dust because the new bulb has a gasket that will protect the housing. Is this a good idea to do? Idk if anything will happen to the wires. What’s your input?
i talked to iJDM and they said to just leave the wires hanging out and that the housing will not get dust because the new bulb has a gasket that will protect the housing. Is this a good idea to do? Idk if anything will happen to the wires. What’s your input?
With out the dust covers it will introduce contaminates. What they're talking about is the seal on the base of the bulbs. That would be ideal on a fog light assembly, but our stock headlights need the dust covers otherwise you'll get fine dust particles inside. Pair that with moisture, and you'll have ugly yellowing headlights in no time.
I just went through this process and it wasn't too bad. The inside of the decoder housing is wrapped already. All you really need is some clearance for the wires to come out of the stock cover. You can easily fit everything else inside the light housing.
Inside the decoder housing, easily opened with a small screwdriver.
Remove the rubber seal from the cover, drill one hole on each the top and bottom edge, remove any plastic shards with a file or exacto knife or whatever, and replace the rubber seal.
Tuck everything but the decoder box inside the cover making sure that the wires are slid through the notches you drilled on top and bottom of the cover. The rubber seal will sit on top of the decoder wires. I went back after taking this picture and individually wrapped the wires with electrical tape and replaced the cover for added protection. This is a tight working space, so play around with your order of operations. Be careful not to place too much force on the metal latch when closing it.
Secure the decoder box to nearby wires so that it's not flailing around inside the engine bay.
I might go back and put a little silicone around the holes I drilled on the covers and maybe around the edge of the decoder box cover so that I can sleep better on rainy nights.
07-25-20, 11:40 AM
iJDMTOY DRL Decoder
