High pitched sound while playing music and charging the device at the same time
07-31-20, 04:22 AM
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High pitched sound while playing music and charging the device at the same time
So there's this constant high pitched static when a device is being charged from the cigarette lighter outlet while playing sound. My model is 2006 and I have no USB.
The higher the RPM, the louder the sound.
This started one day when I drove a bit too fast and suddenly decided to take a turn, haha. It was probably around 100km/h and a somewhat sharp turn. The gearshift moved by itself to N and since then the sound started.
I "fixed" this issue by charging my phone wirelessly while playing the music.
But yesterday I bought Amazon Echo Auto and it has to be charged from the outlet (unless I buy a power bank, but it's just a hassle). So the high pitched sound is back.
This problem is only present when the device is being charged by a cable. It works fine if I'm charging it wirelessly (I have a wireless phone holder).
Radio works normally.
Anyone know if this is fixable?
The higher the RPM, the louder the sound.
This started one day when I drove a bit too fast and suddenly decided to take a turn, haha. It was probably around 100km/h and a somewhat sharp turn. The gearshift moved by itself to N and since then the sound started.
I "fixed" this issue by charging my phone wirelessly while playing the music.
But yesterday I bought Amazon Echo Auto and it has to be charged from the outlet (unless I buy a power bank, but it's just a hassle). So the high pitched sound is back.
This problem is only present when the device is being charged by a cable. It works fine if I'm charging it wirelessly (I have a wireless phone holder).
Radio works normally.
Anyone know if this is fixable?
Last edited by Nebel; 07-31-20 at 04:51 AM.
07-31-20, 06:02 AM
#2
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Yes, a ground loop noise isolator will fix it:
Common problem on early IS models, there was a TSIB from Lexus (at least in the US) to install a ground loop isolator at no charge, but that coverage expired with the original new car warranty.
Common problem on early IS models, there was a TSIB from Lexus (at least in the US) to install a ground loop isolator at no charge, but that coverage expired with the original new car warranty.
07-31-20, 06:06 AM
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Yes, a ground loop noise isolator will fix it: https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L
Common problem on early IS models, there was a TSIB from Lexus (at least in the US) to install a ground loop isolator at no charge, but that coverage expired with the original new car warranty.
Common problem on early IS models, there was a TSIB from Lexus (at least in the US) to install a ground loop isolator at no charge, but that coverage expired with the original new car warranty.
Do you perhaps know what caused this problem?
07-31-20, 06:17 AM
#4
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Here is a generic description of ground loops: https://www.lifewire.com/whining-noi...x-input-534592
and here is the original Lexus TSIB: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...noise-tsib.pdf
The part from Amazon works just as well as the official Lexus fix, and is much cheaper if you are paying out-of-pocket.
and here is the original Lexus TSIB: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...noise-tsib.pdf
The part from Amazon works just as well as the official Lexus fix, and is much cheaper if you are paying out-of-pocket.
07-31-20, 08:03 AM
#5
I went the ground loop isolator route originally. Worked well for when I had to charge the phone at the same time.
I recently did the TSIB because my aux port started having issues where moving the aux would result in the sound coming out of only one side. Decided I'd knock out that and the ground loop issue at the same time. Unfortunately, that TSIB diagram is more for the ES and was a huge pain trying to find a spot to mount the filter. It works just as well as your $10 ground loop isolator from Amazon, eBay, etc, so no need to overspend and replace the aux and pay for the harness/filter unless you really want to.
I recently did the TSIB because my aux port started having issues where moving the aux would result in the sound coming out of only one side. Decided I'd knock out that and the ground loop issue at the same time. Unfortunately, that TSIB diagram is more for the ES and was a huge pain trying to find a spot to mount the filter. It works just as well as your $10 ground loop isolator from Amazon, eBay, etc, so no need to overspend and replace the aux and pay for the harness/filter unless you really want to.
07-31-20, 12:50 PM
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I went the ground loop isolator route originally. Worked well for when I had to charge the phone at the same time.
I recently did the TSIB because my aux port started having issues where moving the aux would result in the sound coming out of only one side. Decided I'd knock out that and the ground loop issue at the same time. Unfortunately, that TSIB diagram is more for the ES and was a huge pain trying to find a spot to mount the filter. It works just as well as your $10 ground loop isolator from Amazon, eBay, etc, so no need to overspend and replace the aux and pay for the harness/filter unless you really want to.
I recently did the TSIB because my aux port started having issues where moving the aux would result in the sound coming out of only one side. Decided I'd knock out that and the ground loop issue at the same time. Unfortunately, that TSIB diagram is more for the ES and was a huge pain trying to find a spot to mount the filter. It works just as well as your $10 ground loop isolator from Amazon, eBay, etc, so no need to overspend and replace the aux and pay for the harness/filter unless you really want to.
It didn't help. Is the product you linked any different?
07-31-20, 01:28 PM
#7
If this is a new problem, check your alternator! As the diodes that convert AC to DC begin to leak and fail, line noise can increase.
This is also true of bad connections. You can test the line noise by setting your DMM to AC millivolts and measure from the body ground to the +12 battery terminal.
Typically it is less that 30mV but I've never measured this car.
This is also true of bad connections. You can test the line noise by setting your DMM to AC millivolts and measure from the body ground to the +12 battery terminal.
Typically it is less that 30mV but I've never measured this car.
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07-31-20, 01:37 PM
#8
I had a spare
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-Chann...9VF83VR6SS46NV
It didn't help. Is the product you linked any different?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-Chann...9VF83VR6SS46NV
It didn't help. Is the product you linked any different?
"https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-Channel-Passive-Stereo-SDI-ST/dp/B0039OVVC0/"
In this case, it includes the "ref" so end here...
/dp/B0039OVVC0
/return
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