Low oil mystery
08-02-21, 04:57 AM
#16
Driver School Candidate
That makes sense. Your LS460 is worth maybe what, $8-9k? Labor rate is $100+/hr. Compression test, leak down test, pulling off engine covers, etc.could cost $1,000 to figure it out.
08-04-21, 12:03 PM
#17
Sorry about your problems. This is truly painful, I think somewhere in our collective lives, we've all been there.
Now to the heavy lifting.
Like other bloggers have said: data and information is KEY, you can't make bricks without straw, AND don't over-react!! Before calling the prior owner and "lawyering up", or threaten to, which is a first instinct. Call and inquire into your experiences. Has this happened before, if so, when, who repaired the car previously, where maintenance records with the car when purchased, ask for maintenance records if not with the car when you purchased, if not, substantially the same previous questions. I know it's tough, but no threats. Practice carefully moderated speaking tones on your wife or significant other.... don't let the conversation run off the track. Lawyers aren't a good answer here as most competent attorneys for warranty/performance issues like this are at least $5K in retainer to even talk to you, if not, that's a worry too. However, some states do have "lemon law"/warranty/contact repudiation recovery opportunities, of sorts, for personal transactions, this varies by state... the clock on these is short, usually 30 days. Build your "due diligence" file and what you did when in a journal, include receipts... and record these conversations, with permission, on your phone, if possible.
2) did you or a dealer/mechanic with a diagnostic computer do a PPI on the ECM... was the car clear of codes when you purchased it?
3) do you have a ODBII computer capable of clearing codes... if not, consider getting one if, it doesn't need to be a Techstream, but a middle grade Foxconn computer can do the trick or Harbor Freight sells a Zurich ZR11 or ZR13, will work... the 13 is better;
4) can you do any of your own maintenance work.... within limits... plug replacement, oil changes/filters, etc...etc.?;
5) did you check the oil level before purchase?; your blog thread here doesn't make a lot of sense here.... for this car to burn 4 1/2 qts of oil, the plugs would look horrible... a blind mechanic would see that immediately? What is a "blocked cylinder"?
6) in short, you need to get the car "clean" of codes... as best you can, put new oil and filter, check air filter... before pulling covers.... depending upon the answers to the first five questions. The computer diagnostic systems on these cars are great, and oil can be checked via a spectral analysis. Tearing things down "to see" is long gone and waste of time and money. These tests can tell a LOT more than oil burning, i.e. water in fuel, oil, organic contamination, metal by type, carbon content, lean/rich mixture...etc...etc.
Its very strange that the car operated fine long enough for you to purchase it? You did test drive...etc...etc... Was this a "long distance" transaction?
Now to the heavy lifting.
Like other bloggers have said: data and information is KEY, you can't make bricks without straw, AND don't over-react!! Before calling the prior owner and "lawyering up", or threaten to, which is a first instinct. Call and inquire into your experiences. Has this happened before, if so, when, who repaired the car previously, where maintenance records with the car when purchased, ask for maintenance records if not with the car when you purchased, if not, substantially the same previous questions. I know it's tough, but no threats. Practice carefully moderated speaking tones on your wife or significant other.... don't let the conversation run off the track. Lawyers aren't a good answer here as most competent attorneys for warranty/performance issues like this are at least $5K in retainer to even talk to you, if not, that's a worry too. However, some states do have "lemon law"/warranty/contact repudiation recovery opportunities, of sorts, for personal transactions, this varies by state... the clock on these is short, usually 30 days. Build your "due diligence" file and what you did when in a journal, include receipts... and record these conversations, with permission, on your phone, if possible.
2) did you or a dealer/mechanic with a diagnostic computer do a PPI on the ECM... was the car clear of codes when you purchased it?
3) do you have a ODBII computer capable of clearing codes... if not, consider getting one if, it doesn't need to be a Techstream, but a middle grade Foxconn computer can do the trick or Harbor Freight sells a Zurich ZR11 or ZR13, will work... the 13 is better;
4) can you do any of your own maintenance work.... within limits... plug replacement, oil changes/filters, etc...etc.?;
5) did you check the oil level before purchase?; your blog thread here doesn't make a lot of sense here.... for this car to burn 4 1/2 qts of oil, the plugs would look horrible... a blind mechanic would see that immediately? What is a "blocked cylinder"?
6) in short, you need to get the car "clean" of codes... as best you can, put new oil and filter, check air filter... before pulling covers.... depending upon the answers to the first five questions. The computer diagnostic systems on these cars are great, and oil can be checked via a spectral analysis. Tearing things down "to see" is long gone and waste of time and money. These tests can tell a LOT more than oil burning, i.e. water in fuel, oil, organic contamination, metal by type, carbon content, lean/rich mixture...etc...etc.
Its very strange that the car operated fine long enough for you to purchase it? You did test drive...etc...etc... Was this a "long distance" transaction?
08-05-21, 04:00 PM
#18
I've cured all but one oil burner in life, an old 327 c.i. Chevy that was rung out way too many times before former spouse bought it.
These engines having so much design input for power and efficiency, they sorta screwed up the valve cover design as an objective is to take those oil vapors and drop the solids (oil) out of suspension so it can return to the oil pan as a solid instead of leaving the valve cover as vapor and being burned in the combustion chamber...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post