Looks like it's getting time for a new battery
#1
Lexus Champion
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...Sigh. After not driving my IS for 3 days, the battery was a little weak. You could hear it struggling to crank. It was installed on 1/2017, so it is now hitting the end of it's useful life. I was planning on changing it in January, but looks like I may be doing it earlier. Lucky thing my local Lexus dealership has it for $103 right now (Part number 00544-024T2-530)
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ncatona (11-30-20)
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ncatona (11-30-20)
#3
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I was told that other brands won't fit. What I was told was the top latch that holds the battery down won't fit. If that's not correct, I'll pick up the Costco battery instead
#4
Instructor
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If you're in a hot climate like I am (Florida) I'll quote my grandfather. "After 3 years your battery is on borrowed time". Before you replace it - I'd check the voltage while the car is running (across the posts) it should be 14.5-14.8 volts. After an hour it will drop into the 13s and after a few days it will hover around 12. If you don't see the 14+ volts after starting you might have a charging system/alternator problem.
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AMIRZA786 (11-28-20)
#5
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If you're in a hot climate like I am (Florida) I'll quote my grandfather. "After 3 years your battery is on borrowed time". Before you replace it - I'd check the voltage while the car is running (across the posts) it should be 14.5-14.8 volts. After an hour it will drop into the 13s and after a few days it will hover around 12. If you don't see the 14+ volts after starting you might have a charging system/alternator problem.
#6
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I'm about in the same situation as you with my new (to me) IS. The battery is from march 2017. I topped off the battery with de-ionized water, cleaned both terminals and had it on a trickle charger for four days. It still starts the car but I can tell that I'll be replacing it soon enough.
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AMIRZA786 (11-28-20)
#7
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I'm about in the same situation as you with my new (to me) IS. The battery is from march 2017. I topped off the battery with de-ionized water, cleaned both terminals and had it on a trickle charger for four days. It still starts the car but I can tell that I'll be replacing it soon enough.
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#8
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Top mount fits. I have a Costco battery in my car. Size 24 should always fit with the top mount regardless of who makes the battery. Friendly reminder to those who may look back at this thread in the future, you have to remove, and install the battery yourself as Costco won't install it for you. If you bring them your old battery at the start, you won't have to worry about that refundable deposit when you come back later to bring your old battery.
#9
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Top mount fits. I have a Costco battery in my car. Size 24 should always fit with the top mount regardless of who makes the battery. Friendly reminder to those who may look back at this thread in the future, you have to remove, and install the battery yourself as Costco won't install it for you. If you bring them your old battery at the start, you won't have to worry about that refundable deposit when you come back later to bring your old battery.
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ncatona (11-30-20)
#10
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If you can get an OEM battery for $103 do it thats a steal. Mine lasted for almost 5 years before it died and wasnt even consistently used (weekend car)
lexuses warranty lasts for a long time with partial coverage.
for reference, i bought a crap crappy pep boys battery for $110 with a 24 month 100% coverage warranty. The OEM warranty is MUCH better/longer duration
lexuses warranty lasts for a long time with partial coverage.
for reference, i bought a crap crappy pep boys battery for $110 with a 24 month 100% coverage warranty. The OEM warranty is MUCH better/longer duration
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AMIRZA786 (11-29-20)
#11
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Looks like this battery can still last longer, however if the car is not a daily driver, then batteries can die earlier. Hence a trickle charger is recommended. Will allow you battery's life to be extended to normal use like 5 years. That's $20/year?
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ncatona (11-30-20)
#12
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Your average battery should last 5 years if it's not experiencing constant climate extremes (southern US heat, or northern US cold). I believe the heat is harder on the battery than the cold. If it's being daily driven as well, it should last. My issue with the OEM batteries is how low the CCA's are, and how they degrade over time making cold starts in the winter in cold climates a bit hard. I got 3 years out of a Lexus True2 battery, I'm about 3 years in on the Costco battery now.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
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In general, AGMs are good batteries and run a tad higher voltage like 12.85, 12.95, maybe 12.99 when fully charged.
That said, a previous post said something to the effect of "it's only charging if above 14.5 to 14.8V" , NO! At 14.8 it is boiling the battery dry.
Current in AMPs, charges batteries, voltage... Yes, the voltage must be above the minimum cell voltage of ~2.13V or 12.77 across the terminals...
Look here for some facts...
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...d_acid_battery
Excerpt from site above:
The correct setting of the charge voltage limit is critical and ranges from 2.30V to 2.45V per cell. Setting the voltage threshold is a compromise and battery experts refer to this as “dancing on the head of a pin.” On one hand, the battery wants to be fully charged to get maximum capacity and avoid sulfation on the negative plate; on the other hand, over-saturation by not switching to float charge causes grid corrosion on the positive plate. This also leads to gassing and water-loss.
Notice the head of the pin is 2.45V per cell or 14.7V which boils a lead acid battery (LAB) dry.
I'm saying that 13.5V and up is charging... Higher voltages simply take the battery closer to float voltage and with those high voltages come high current that can charge a battery quicker. That said a fouled battery that won't take a charge typically has a high voltage even though it won't hold a charge.
That said, a previous post said something to the effect of "it's only charging if above 14.5 to 14.8V" , NO! At 14.8 it is boiling the battery dry.
Current in AMPs, charges batteries, voltage... Yes, the voltage must be above the minimum cell voltage of ~2.13V or 12.77 across the terminals...
Look here for some facts...
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...d_acid_battery
Excerpt from site above:
The correct setting of the charge voltage limit is critical and ranges from 2.30V to 2.45V per cell. Setting the voltage threshold is a compromise and battery experts refer to this as “dancing on the head of a pin.” On one hand, the battery wants to be fully charged to get maximum capacity and avoid sulfation on the negative plate; on the other hand, over-saturation by not switching to float charge causes grid corrosion on the positive plate. This also leads to gassing and water-loss.
Notice the head of the pin is 2.45V per cell or 14.7V which boils a lead acid battery (LAB) dry.
I'm saying that 13.5V and up is charging... Higher voltages simply take the battery closer to float voltage and with those high voltages come high current that can charge a battery quicker. That said a fouled battery that won't take a charge typically has a high voltage even though it won't hold a charge.
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AMIRZA786 (11-30-20)