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I've spent two weeks trying to fix my 2006 IS350 and had no luck. I am running out of ideas!
A few weeks ago, I installed a brand new battery in my IS350 the wrong way (for about 2 seconds). I immediately noticed and disconnected it and installed it the right way. I blew the fusible link. For a short term fix until my fusible link arrived in the mail, I soldered the fusible link back together. the car worked fine.
My new fusible link came in the mail and I installed it (it was a pain in the rear end to pull the fusible link out). I took pictures of all the wiring before I unbolted the wires on the fusible link before I took it out to make sure I install the new one the same way. I installed it exactly as my pictures showed.
I put my battery back and now I get no crank at all. I show some lights on the dash. I can lock/unlock the doors but I just can't get the car to crank.
When I jump the starter relay while the car is in the ACC position, the car turns on (starter is good) but dash lights act like the car is still off.
I have no idea what to do next. Is this related to the fusible link installation? Is there a way to reset the ECU? Any thoughts on what could be going on?
Thanks for the detailed information, ELexis. I checked all the fuses you mentioned. Then after that, I checked all the fuses in all 4 compartments (2 under hood, driver side under panel, passenger side under panel. All the fuses are good.
Battery cable seems fine as well. As it cranks if I jump the starter relay. I also replaced the starter relay with a new one from a local auto parts store and nothing changed.
When I am in the car, and press the 'push to start' button. The following lights come on solid - break, check engine, ABS,P/S, Battery, and Tire Pressure. The 'AFS OFF' light is the only one which blinks on and off, the rest of the lights are solid. The instrument cluster doesn't illumine with the backlight like it usually does.
Was going to suggest reviewing the following fuses as well however, you stated all fuses were checked / good;
Driver side interior location;
Fuse # 29 Engine A (ECU 80A)
May be a relay however, unsure what each relay is for in a particular location (may state under fuse block cover);
Maybe a bad ground somewhere. Believe there may be a ground wire that connects from one of the battery cables to the frame located just in front of the firewall.
When vehicle is turned over/ cranks, it doesn't remain started correct? Would reversing the cables damaged the alternator in some way not allowing vehicle to start? Believe alternator only used to recharge battery when engine is running.
Thanks for the detailed information, ELexis. I checked all the fuses you mentioned. Then after that, I checked all the fuses in all 4 compartments (2 under hood, driver side under panel, passenger side under panel. All the fuses are good.
Battery cable seems fine as well. As it cranks if I jump the starter relay. I also replaced the starter relay with a new one from a local auto parts store and nothing changed.
When I am in the car, and press the 'push to start' button. The following lights come on solid - break, check engine, ABS,P/S, Battery, and Tire Pressure. The 'AFS OFF' light is the only one which blinks on and off, the rest of the lights are solid. The instrument cluster doesn't illumine with the backlight like it usually does.
Reply # 45 by Kendawg: Corroded chassis ground I believe underneath the fuse block in the engine compartment
Because it was running after the patch, it implies *something was not assembled correctly or has a bad connection. I hate to say it, but time to recheck the work done.
I lay odds a connection or ground is not making good contact..
That said, there is a chance the reverse polarity killed something else (latent failure), and it is just now showing up.
How are you testing the fuses? I'd suggest a power on test, and using a test lamp. Connect ground side of test lamp to ground, w key on, go down the fused side of each fuse and verify the lamp is lit. Repeat with test meter and it should show close to battery voltage. Hint - pull a fuse to see which side is hot with ignition on.
Although unlikely, there is a chance a relay was damaged in the exchange. With a few test leads and test lamp, this can be verified. Most have pin out on the back.
Hmmmm...... I don't currently have access to the procedure but I wonder if fuse bus replacement tripped the fuel pump relay circuit disabling various functions? That might be worth a read....
I've spent two weeks trying to fix my 2006 IS350 and had no luck. I am running out of ideas!
A few weeks ago, I installed a brand new battery in my IS350 the wrong way (for about 2 seconds). I immediately noticed and disconnected it and installed it the right way. I blew the fusible link. For a short term fix until my fusible link arrived in the mail, I soldered the fusible link back together. the car worked fine.
My new fusible link came in the mail and I installed it (it was a pain in the rear end to pull the fusible link out). I took pictures of all the wiring before I unbolted the wires on the fusible link before I took it out to make sure I install the new one the same way. I installed it exactly as my pictures showed.
I put my battery back and now I get no crank at all. I show some lights on the dash. I can lock/unlock the doors but I just can't get the car to crank.
When I jump the starter relay while the car is in the ACC position, the car turns on (starter is good) but dash lights act like the car is still off.
I have no idea what to do next. Is this related to the fusible link installation? Is there a way to reset the ECU? Any thoughts on what could be going on?
Wow, you soldered the fusible link together. Never tried to but hear people write its hardcase? Try handshake your ECM to the new fusible link. Short 4 and 13 pin its on CL here somewhere, switch car on ACC half an hour then try (do you have a wall to car battery charger/conditioner? Battery will die with most things switched on and ECM handshakin. It won't hurt to try. Easier to put the pins in with battery disconnected first to not short anything. I have a feeling that will fix your problem. Its your immobilizer in action currently.
Wow, you soldered the fusible link together. Never tried to but hear people write its hardcase? Try handshake your ECM to the new fusible link. Short 4 and 13 pin its on CL here somewhere, switch car on ACC half an hour then try (do you have a wall to car battery charger/conditioner? Battery will die with most things switched on and ECM handshakin. It won't hurt to try. Easier to put the pins in with battery disconnected first to not short anything. I have a feeling that will fix your problem. Its your immobilizer in action currently.