Dealarr

I went through the first time like you with the same year same code ECU, but the battery ran out the first time before the procedure was completed. Then i burrowed the neighbour's car and had the jump start cables on my car for 30 mins (That is why a battery charger is recommended, since 30 mins with fuel pumps on and all computers talking, it probably sucks abit of energy). And yes, after that she started right away as your procedure.

Am surprised you were able to use the same battery to do the next 30 mins of the handshake, that's 1 hour of car drawing on battery when mine died before 30 mins was up.

Yw1011101

Thanks for the confirmation! This is helpful. I wasn't able to do it multiple times with one charge. I had to bring the battery back home inbetween for each 30min program. So I would charge it at home, bring it back to the car, program for 30m, then start the car. The car would be crank and crank but no start. Can I ask you if you have tried to start the car without program the new ECU? Does it do the same thing as my car? I'm trying to understand if the crank no start just means the ECU hasn't finish handshake, or could it mean anything else. Or maybe your ECU is compatible that even without programming it could work? and mine is not compatible. Can I also ask you if you had to use a TechStream to change ECU vin number? This was mentinoned somewhere else on the forum.

Also, did you changed your ECU because of the rough downshift also? Did changing the ECU fix your problem? Thanks for the help!

Dealarr

That's your problem there, the battery went under the normal operating voltage to start the car. The handshake procedure is for the ECU to talk to all computers and also for immobilizer to stop halting your vehicle starting. Your 30 min is too long for those tiny battery IS250 allows in that tiny battery jacket it locks us in (I upgraded mine to a 4x4 one by cutting the battery jacket, i dont care, what kinda horrible restriction is that, just like most of its unnecessary limp modes).

How do you charge it at home? Can you bring you charging device to your car with an extension cord and charge it while it's learning? That's the same as what I suggested with battery charger when we burrowed our neighbour's car jump starter cables connected for 30 minutes.
So I would put the 4/13 pin in first with battery neg off, connect negative terminal, connect charging device pos neg and make sure the battery is FULL everytime, turn car on till dash light goes christmas, wait 30 minutes, turn off car completely, turn off charging device at wall after another 30 minutes so total time 1 hour (since it is not from car, it won't charge as fast), Then disconnect charging device from battery neg then pos in that order. Start car. Follow in this strict order.

If your charging device is really weak, it might not keep up with the demand and battery runs out before handshake operation complete, then immobilizer kicks in again everytime, making you think you done something wrong. You just have to make sure the battery never goes below start up charge during those 30 mins and when starting it. If you don't wanna spend the money, ask a friend or neighbour and have their car running for 30 mins with jump start cables connected continously when your car learns, that wouldn't cost you anything. Just don't reverse the polarities or you need new fusilink.

Yw1011101

Hey Dealarr, thanks for the help and detailed explanation. I will try that sometime. So the to confirm, you suggest me to charge the car for another 30mins after the initial 30 min programing, for the car to charge up so it doesn't drop below start up voltage? Could I start the car with wall charger connected right away? Thanks again!

Dealarr

You can, but i would make sure the battery is full before the handshake, during and after the handshake. You can start the car 30 mins or 45 mins or a whole night after if you feel so inclined with the battery charger on.

The whole idea is to keep the battery at full or close to full during the entire time. So you can do this with battery charger, or with another car. Like before mentioned, just afraid your battery charger might not be heavy duty enough if during those 30 mins even if your battery was full, it runs out faster than your charger can charge in those 30 mins. Hence i suggested just use another car, free and guaranteed. Unless you wanna count the 30 mins of fuel the other car is dispensing for charging your car.

PS: Changed mine because i thought i fried mine when the signal cable for my supercharger fell out from it's 0-5V signal spot to the 12v neg on car body when i had it disconnected and in testing phase, so wires all over the place. Seems to have done nothing after finding out it was some other causes. Yours is most likely tranny fluid too old, not ECU. Do you know how to get a small sample like 10ml or 20ml of ATF from your tranny? You can youtube how people unscrew the overfill plug, let a bit drip out, and screw it back in again. 10ml 20ml isn't going to cause a failure. If it is squid ink black and smells burnt, that's your problem. If it is, let me know i will give you the procedure how to rotate all dirty liquid out. It's not a flush, it's when the car is cycling fluid when on, you add fluid so old and new fluid both flow out the over fill till it is completely fresh and pink, waste of fluid but you have peace of mind it is all new.

Yw1011101

Hey Dealarr, thanks for the detail explanation again. I see what you mean now. I'll try that again sometime. I'm at a point kind want to leave the car as is for a little. I tried to change a mosfet on the old ECU and somehow lifted some solder pad and trace, which I thought I have lost that ECU. I just managed to get the old ECU working again by replace solder pad and using jumper wire to replace trace. The car is now finally running. It still have the old problem, but at the moment I'm just happy the car can start again.

I'll try your procedure again and take a sample of the ATF sometime, and hope it would fix the problem. Thanks again.