Yw1011101

Hi fam, I have a quick question. Do all main ECU of 2IS from 2005 to 2014 fit interchangeablely? I have a 05 ECU I'm swapping out. Will a 2011 ECU run in my car?
(Assuming both ECU are for auto transmission)

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

I would take your PN and production date and enter them into a Where used function on any good parts site. It should narrow it down for you....

I'm pretty your search should stop at March/April 2013 as that was the end of the road for the 2IS...

Yw1011101

Any recommandation for a good part site?

For reference the PN of my car's ECU is 89661-53670, the ECU I bought is 89661-53K30. Thanks in advance!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Any of this look correct?
RHD, Australia, IS-250?

08/2005 LEXUS IS250 (GSE20R-AETLHW)
LUX SED RHD 4GR-FSE D4 ATM

Honestly, very few search engines in the states are helpful for this situation. Try some Lexus dealers around you and look at what years they used it on.

Yw1011101

Yeah, those are right. Cool, thanks anyway.

Yw1011101

Does anyone have experience putting in different year 2IS ECU in and is compatible with each other?

sinister2c

Whatever you do, you will need to transplant your old immobilizer chip or copy the EEPROM and flash it to the new ECU.

Yw1011101

I was going to use the shorting OBDII pin 4 and 13 method. Have you tried that method?

Dealarr

I swapped my one out buying one from JP. about a year ago. You need a battery charger to keep the thing going for 30 mins, the handshake period. But I bought the same code same year.

The only thing is, is your 2005 IS250 the 205HP version or the 215PS/212HP Version. the L edition.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

OP, what's wrong with that one?

The 2IS isn't known for having bad capacitors but being that old, it could have issues.

Are you having driveability problems?

The reason I ask is another of the same age may have the same problem. Replacing the caps is pretty easy and inexpensive.

Yw1011101

Thanks for your reply. My car is from Australia so I believe is the 205HP version one. I m assuming the L edition is only in Japan.

I have a question for you. I end up got a ECU from the same year 05 and same part number 89661-53670. I tried the 30 mins paperclip method, however the car failed to start. It would keep crank over and over but no ignition. Before the procedure, I brought my car battery to home and charged it to 13.1V. I swaped the ECU, connect the battery, put paperclip between pin 4 and 13, press the start button twice without break, dash light flashing, timer for 30 min, then turn off the car, remove paper clip, then try start the car. The car would only crank over and over but no start. I tried this method first on the 2011 ECU, it didn't work. Then I tried the same thing with 2005 ECU same part number, still same result.

Does any of my procedure sounds wrong to you? Did I miss anything? Did you car start right away after the 30min handshake peroid? Did you do anything with Techstream like changing the VIN after the 30min procedure? Do you think know the engine keep cranking but no start mean the handshake is failed? Or does it mean it might be some other problem? I tried it couple times it all end up in crank no start. So I'm at lost here. Any suggestion?

Could you let me know the specific procedure you went through when changing the ECU? Many thanks in advance man!

Yw1011101

Hey, thanks for the reply again. So the original one have the issue of rough downshift from second to first. It feels like the car is getting rear-ended when downshift from 2 to 1. I ended up constantly driving in ECT snow mode, because under that mode, the car doesn't drop to first gear. The lowest it goes is the second gear. Then it got worse by having the same hiccup from 3rd to 2nd. The hiccup is not as bad, but still noticeable. I talked to the LEXUS dealership, they said I probably need a new computer. But they charge around $200+ for a reprogram, and that made me want to try it myself first.

I'm quite handy with soldering and electronics. I actually tried to swap a mosfet on the ECU circuit that seems to be driving the transmission solenoid, however that actually made the problem worse. I have checked all the cap in the ECU they looked good at least from apperance. So I'm kind at a lost here. Do you know what other component on the ECU circuit board might be causing this issue?

Jahseriah

I'm having the same issue with my IS 250, I changed the tranny and still have the same issue.
I'm going to have the repair done by SIA electronics. I will be sending the ECU out to them.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

That is a tough one. Glad you filled in the why part of replacing the ECU. You might take some high resolution photos of the PCBA. Maybe one of us sees something?

Yw1011101

Hey, thanks for the help. Here are some pictures. I know they are a little bit blur. I can retake a specific part of the PCB for a more detailed picture if you'd like

At the moment I'm more focus on the reprogramming ECU part, because I've already got another used ECU. I have tried shorting OBDII pin 13 and 4 for 30min method. It didn't work on me. Car crank but no start. The second method is moving eeprom. Have anyone tried this method and got success out of it? I've also ordered a mini VCI port + TechStream. Can I use the TechStream software to program my ECU? Anyone have procedure that maybe I can reference? Many thanks!