Oil Consumption
02-13-21, 12:17 AM
#16
By the way the thicker oil was only three times before you go back to 5W30. It is to help reseat the rings and rough up the walls with hard driving, it's not meant to be the replacement oil. It's an old mechanic's trick to restore compression. Just like they throw water into hot engine to pucker off carbon, it now hides behind big machine that pumps hydrogen through the car. H2O is water, hydrogen x2 plus oxygen = water.
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ncatona (02-13-21)
09-05-21, 01:48 AM
#17
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Hi
If you go to factory technicians your oil consumption will keep getting worse. See if you can get someone to put in heavier oil or change it yourself. I am currently running 15W40 mineral oil to rough the walls and seat the rings of an IS250 through engine braking, doubt any owners would have driven their Lexus's hard in the beginning. It no longer burns oil with 173k's on the clock.
09-05-21, 02:03 AM
#18
That was Mobil 1000x2 15W40. Cheap mineral oil to reseat rings, rough up walls if it wasn't done.
My recommendation for the 4GR FSE IS250, is none other than Shell Ultra Helix 5W30 or 5W40 after trying all the oil. It is very very good oil for the 4gr. Oil with low Noack is good for 4GR, because you don't want oil evaporating all over inside the intake chambers, coating it and letting it drop down into the combustion chamber. It being a high compression engine and with heat, it will sometimes detonate before spark fires.
My recommendation for the 4GR FSE IS250, is none other than Shell Ultra Helix 5W30 or 5W40 after trying all the oil. It is very very good oil for the 4gr. Oil with low Noack is good for 4GR, because you don't want oil evaporating all over inside the intake chambers, coating it and letting it drop down into the combustion chamber. It being a high compression engine and with heat, it will sometimes detonate before spark fires.
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ncatona (09-06-21)
09-06-21, 01:07 PM
#19
I 2nd this by saying you should drive harder for an oil change interval either 3k if the oil darkens quickly or 5k and monitor it after each hard drive since you may burn more then. Hopefully it should clean things up for the low tension piston rings. I know for my 2006 with 135k miles it worked after doing some more consistent back to back redline runs to 40 or 60 for 15kmiles and also some manual mode shifting kept in the higher rpms once in a blue moon (of course I only did so when safe and not every time I drove the car either) and now I dont burn oil at all anymore and I only ran 5w30 pennzoil ultra platinum then platinum afterwards in it.... although any full "synthetic" 5w30 should do the trick with proper oil change intervals. My thread below or check my profile for it. Hopefully it should work for your 06 like it did mine, I originally thought driving slow (snow mode granny style under 2k rpms) for the first 10k miles after I got the car I thought it would stop any possible consumption but it didnt so I was like F it what do I have to loose, so I drove it more aggressively within the rpm range not the mph 🤣 and now 15k miles later.... im not loosing a drop of oil in a 5k oil change interval where before I lost over 1 quart.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...n-dropped.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...n-dropped.html
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ncatona (09-06-21)
09-06-21, 08:16 PM
#20
Intermediate
Low noack oils help. Bitog helped me decide on pennzoil syn for that. There's less crud in the engine if this burns, and it can resist higher Temps supposedly. Not every engine is the same, others consume more with this or they dont, stick with what works best for you.
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Dealarr (09-06-21)
09-06-21, 09:13 PM
#21
No sorry Ncatona, you really had picked the right oil for the 4grfse! You have to take the compliment now.
09-07-21, 07:17 PM
#23
I just ordered some yamaha ring free and it says to put it in your gas. Can you put this stuff in the oil?
09-08-21, 07:39 PM
#25
It uses about 1 quart every 3000 miles. Currently my car has just hit 110k. Is there anything I could put in the oil to help clean the carbon from the rings?
09-08-21, 08:11 PM
#26
Intermediate
Check if it's got any possible recalls left, then just run it harder imo, nice good pulls with a dash of manual mode downshifts to rev down. That made mine slow to about half a quart in 5k miles, and I think I'm leaking at the valve gaskets/stems due to mileage and I see some seepage around there. Also stick with 5k intervals.
09-08-21, 08:32 PM
#27
If the insides are really sludged up, some of that is carbon and putting it into circulation means more wear. Freeing the rings is the solution tho.
Does it smoke on long downhill descents when the throttle is re-applied? Often times that valve stem seals which jives with dirty oil and missed service events.
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ncatona (09-08-21)
09-09-21, 07:50 PM
#28
Seafoam and change it every 3k. Follow the recommendations for adding it near the change time ahead of OCI. What ever they recommend.
If the insides are really sludged up, some of that is carbon and putting it into circulation means more wear. Freeing the rings is the solution tho.
Does it smoke on long downhill descents when the throttle is re-applied? Often times that valve stem seals which jives with dirty oil and missed service events.
If the insides are really sludged up, some of that is carbon and putting it into circulation means more wear. Freeing the rings is the solution tho.
Does it smoke on long downhill descents when the throttle is re-applied? Often times that valve stem seals which jives with dirty oil and missed service events.
09-09-21, 11:46 PM
#29
Try Shell Ultra Helix, or Pennzoil 5W30 thing, the one Ncatona is using above this post. That's the way to test if it's your car, or the oil.
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ncatona (09-11-21)
09-14-21, 07:35 PM
#30
Unfortunately I have two 5 quart bottles of Mobile 1 sitting in my garage. So next oil change I will buy another brand of oil. Someone on another message board recommended BG 109 Engine Compression Restorer to put in the oil. I have ordered it from Amazon and hopefully it will reduce the oil consumption.