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Cool, thank you for the suggestion. I'll try that out and report back. Open to any other suggestions.
Do you remember seeing these oil gaskets after you took the rocket covers off? If they are old they will stick to the rocket cover when you take them off, if they are not put back into the slots and don't sit level and sealed with the top when the covers are back on. Big problems. I am having to replace mine, they lost their seal hardening up now car is acting weird after replacing all gaskets on rocker except these. Part numbers are:
Half each side:
4x 11159-31010 (technically, 2x 11159G-31010, 2x 11159F-31010) but it shouldn't matter
2x 90430-10024
Yes, I replaced all three of those gaskets on each side (6 in total). The old ones were brittle and hard. They came off with the valve cover. I pried them off with a flathead and tossed them.
What color smoke do you see? The only thing I can see now. Is a cracked manifold. Do you hear any ticking noise coming from that area? The stock manifolds are pretty robust. Not really sure how it would of cracked. I can't remember the torque specs for the nuts.
What color smoke do you see? The only thing I can see now. Is a cracked manifold. Do you hear any ticking noise coming from that area? The stock manifolds are pretty robust. Not really sure how it would of cracked. I can't remember the torque specs for the nuts.
The entire exhaust system on the 2IS (not sure 3IS, haven't gone under to look) is super dodgy how it is attached to the car, one would not expect the weight of the system to be at the forefront so that the headers/manifold have to bear everything. For example, you would expect a pretty robust bracket system for the midpipes since when you go over bumps and anything up down, it will push and pull on the headers if there was none since they attached themselves to the headers. That's how they crack.
If you took off your bottom plastic cover for your transmission, there is actually two 10mm bolts you can custom fit a steel bracket to go across so it can support the weight of the midpipes without it pulling on the headers if you go over bumps or big drops. that's how they crack, like on the ISF as well.
The entire exhaust system on the 2IS (not sure 3IS, haven't gone under to look) is super dodgy how it is attached to the car, one would not expect the weight of the system to be at the forefront so that the headers/manifold have to bear everything. For example, you would expect a pretty robust bracket system for the midpipes since when you go over bumps and anything up down, it will push and pull on the headers if there was none since they attached themselves to the headers. That's how they crack.
If you took off your bottom plastic cover for your transmission, there is actually two 10mm bolts you can custom fit a steel bracket to go across so it can support the weight of the midpipes without it pulling on the headers if you go over bumps or big drops. that's how they crack, like on the ISF as well.
What color smoke do you see? The only thing I can see now. Is a cracked manifold. Do you hear any ticking noise coming from that area? The stock manifolds are pretty robust. Not really sure how it would of cracked. I can't remember the torque specs for the nuts.
Thanks all. I posted videos so you could see the smoke yourself, but maybe there's issues with people viewing it.
The smoke is white/grey-ish. Smells like something is burning but it could be an exhaust leak. Would a cracked manifold cause that type of smoke/smell?
Almost certain it is not the valve cover gaskets, there are no leaks visible after degreasing the engine and wiping the entire perimeter of the VC interface.
I don't hear any ticking out of the ordinary but I can listen more carefully next time I fire her. I still have to check the top exhaust manifold bolts to see if they're loose. Will report back.
The header top bolts are tight. But the CEL came back on. Must be the cam sensor. Looks like an easy swap without taking anything apart. But that sucker is $150.
That still doesn't explain the smoke though. Or are they related?
Which cam code is it? A, or B? Do you think the wiring got damaged? The only thing I could think of now. Is the coolant block drain plug bolt is near. The first nut on the lower stud of the manifold. Could it be it's slightly loose squirting coolant on the manifold? Is the burning sweet smelling?
Other than that I can't think of any other fluids source in that area.
Which cam code is it? A, or B? Do you think the wiring got damaged? The only thing I could think of now. Is the coolant block drain plug bolt is near. The first nut on the lower stud of the manifold. Could it be it's slightly loose squirting coolant on the manifold? Is the burning sweet smelling?
Other than that I can't think of any other fluids source in that area.
The cam code is "A." The wiring doesn't appear to be damaged. I'll check the coolant drain plug bolt, it doesn't seem like I'm losing any coolant. No issues with coolant level or overheating. The smell is not really sweet, more of a burnt oil smell.
Okay I got the replacement sensor. Now just to figure out which one is Position "A" Bank 2. I'm no expert (clearly) so I think there's 4 total, one for intake and one for exhaust for each side. I've been able to locate the four on the diagram below:
Any idea which one is Position "A" Bank 2? I am guessing the one I numbered 4 on the diagram. I guess worst case scenario I could swap it out one-on-one until (hopefully) the CEL clears.
02-28-21 | 05:35 AM
