Drizell

Vehicle makes a Egg smell or Sulfur smell when accelerating. No engine codes. No mis fire. Nothing at all. Just the smell.
I am asking for a quote at a IRF. What should i look for as I dont wanna pay for something that is not broken or does not need to be done.
Any suggestions on this problem or general tips on keeps this IS 250 on the road long term.


2010 IS 250
All stock no mods

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

If you have a scan tool since it's not showing a code. It will show a pending code maybe at first.

I replaced my bank 1 cat awhile back. Went up, and down checking for leaks on the manifold, and Y pipe.

Once the cat starts setting off the code, and you reset it. The code go will away for a few miles. Then pending code will be showing again. Eventually once the cat is toast resetting the code. It will return immediately this time around..

Drizell

Good to hear from you again MikeFig. Okay ill get my guy to run the scan tool before paying anybody.

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

You may have to wait a while for it to push the code too. My 350 has been getting excessively worse with the smell over the past year, but not enough to set off a code or a pending code yet, so I've just been waiting for it to happen before I replace whichever one is bad.

Drizell

I will note that. Good point as well.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Some fuels are worse than others but the true test is tail pipe emissions. Some shops will test it for 6 pack or less!

Our resident DEQ station used to test for free. Of course you want all the maintenance items caught up like plugs, air filter, MAF cleaning, and 3X a year I run fuel system cleaners mainly when the weather makes a big change as condensation can add water to our methanol fuel pretty easily.

72gs455

Check your trunk vents, they are probably failed and letting smell in. do a search on here. easy fix.

Drizell

They quoted me $3,747.50 for both CATS L-R . They could not find any pending codes and told me that if I replace 1 its a matter of time before the other is shot as well, so go ahead and do both. Now problem here is the vehicle is only worth like 5k and i only have 3g left to pay off out of 14g. I know you can get betters aftermarket CATS for that price of almost 4g. Im bout to just keep the egg smell and say forget everything until it throws failure codes..

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

Wait for the code to pop, no need to change something that isn't an issue. Yet anyways. That's also horribly expensive, shop around. Like I said above, I'm waiting until a code to pop, no sense in spending money on something that isn't a problem yet besides being an annoyance over the smell.

As mentioned above, you can check your trunk vents to reduce the smell getting into the cabin, but that won't solve your problem.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Yeah wait for the code to just start setting. I should've stated that in my post. Though mine failed rather quickly once I started to get the pending code. It was around a month or so until completely failing.

I installed a Walker aftermarket brand. So far so good. If I remember it was installed around late Oct. 2019. Since it was passenger side. It was easy to get it off. To facilitate getting to the bolts. I completely removed the airbox, and dipstick bracket. Also some wiring brackets as well. This allowed me to reach all 6 nuts from up top. I ended up using non oem bolts to bolt up the Y pipe back. I chose serrated flange nuts to prevent loosening up.

For driver side it's a little more involved. I haven't had to get in there other than for alternator change. Any skilled mechanic should have the manifolds off in no time.

claarn

Had the same smell on hard pulls when I bought my 06 is350. Changed the trunk vents that were pretty much non existent and after about three tanks of Costco gas the smell was completely gone.