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The lock actuator seems to be jammed. It unlocks when I press the key fob but it is when I try to lock it, it makes a noise like it is jammed and the cable flickers back and forth.
But even though it appears to be unlocking, the door still doesn’t open.
I managed to get part of the inner door panel off at the top - so I am able to get my hands inside the door. I have had the door panels off previously and I am very familiar with the components inside the door.
So I was able to find the lever that actually opens the door - but when I move that lever, or even the rod connected to the lever, it does not open the door. I thought for sure that would have worked.
Also, worth noting, when I touch the passenger door handle, it no longer unlocks the car - and the weird part is there is no beep or nothing. I wonder why there would be no beep still happening.
So I am not what the problem is - worse case, can I remove the door? Which I think I need to remove the fender to do that - which means I would need to remove the front bumper first. I am hoping someone has a better idea
This is not from the ISX50, but it has some information that maybe be to some use. It shows how to remove the rod from the acutator. Again not sure if the IS has the same setup. I doubt the engineers would design it to where the door would need removal.
As the door is stuck shut, I cannot remove the rods from the actuator. I have heard of some people 'smashing' the actuator to get their door open, but I think I would rather try removing my door completely - which I think would take about an hour to remove the front bumper, then the fender, which would then reveal the 2 bolts for the door! But I am hoping someone has a simpler solution.
As the door is stuck shut, I cannot remove the rods from the actuator. I have heard of some people 'smashing' the actuator to get their door open, but I think I would rather try removing my door completely - which I think would take about an hour to remove the front bumper, then the fender, which would then reveal the 2 bolts for the door! But I am hoping someone has a simpler solution.
If you can put your hand inside, and wiggle the lock cable close to the actuator? Something has to be jammed not releasing. If you look at the 2nd Gen GS forums. It was pretty common the actuators went bad. Similar symptoms as to what you are describing. Many mention manually wiggling the rod, cable lock etc.... cycling the door lock inside, and out side.
As the door is stuck shut, I cannot remove the rods from the actuator. I have heard of some people 'smashing' the actuator to get their door open, but I think I would rather try removing my door completely - which I think would take about an hour to remove the front bumper, then the fender, which would then reveal the 2 bolts for the door! But I am hoping someone has a simpler solution.
For kicks, you could call a lock Smith see if they offer anything?
Is the door panel like half on or all the way off? Even with the door locked, the interior handle should override the lock. Does the handle not feel or sound the same?
Maybe hope on the Toyota TIS sight (a 3 day subscription), there might be Information on how one does this.
Last option might be pulling the window glass for more access.
I live on a small island.. lock smiths would probably not be helpful here.
And the door panel is only off a bit, but enough for me to get my hand and arm in there.
I can feel both cables all the way down tot he actuator, as well as the lever in there that should should technically open the door.
I don't understand why when I move that lever that the door is not opening! I will try to use my phone to do a video in there to possibly help me see better what is going on..
I’m having the same issue. Installed a new actuator on front passenger door. Locks worked. Closed the door and then inside and outside door handles has no affect opening the door. I messed with the cables and the rods. No difference. Very frustrating! Went to junk yard for a new assembly. Just need to get the door open!
At least your door panel is off right? That was my most challenging part, my panel was on when my door was stuck.
For anyone reading this in the future, with the same problem, I was able to lift the top of the door panel up and off the top track and then pull it forward enough to get my arm in there and finally figure out that one of the cables was almost off at the actuator, and causing it to stay jammed shut.
Are you sure the rod is correctly in its place? A previous time when I replaced another door's actuator, I put everything back and didn't put that rod back in place, and my door would not open from the outside or inside. I had to reach in and pull down on that rod, which opened the door. Then with the door open, I connected it properly and everything was good.
Off topic sorta - one of the first things I did with the IS350 was to load up Techstream and disable that nonsense of locking and unlocking all the doors if in/out of park/drive.
If I park for minute, do I really want all the doors to unlock? Hell no! I would highly recommend it.
OP , glad you were able to get in. I figured you'd be out a door panel when all is said and done.. Did a clip fail?
Off topic sorta - one of the first things I did with the IS350 was to load up Techstream and disable that nonsense of locking and unlocking all the doors if in/out of park/drive.
If I park for minute, do I really want all the doors to unlock? Hell no! I would highly recommend it.
OP , glad you were able to get in. I figured you'd be out a door panel when all is said and done.. Did a clip fail?
No, I managed to not harm the door panel by lifting the top part up off the track enough to get back there. I put my phone in there and video'd what was going on.
And I found one of the cables at the actuator was hanging off. I managed to get the cable back in place enough to manually open the door. Instant happiness!
No, I managed to not harm the door panel by lifting the top part up off the track enough to get back there. I put my phone in there and video'd what was going on.
And I found one of the cables at the actuator was hanging off. I managed to get the cable back in place enough to manually open the door. Instant happiness!
At least your door panel is off right? That was my most challenging part, my panel was on when my door was stuck.
For anyone reading this in the future, with the same problem, I was able to lift the top of the door panel up and off the top track and then pull it forward enough to get my arm in there and finally figure out that one of the cables was almost off at the actuator, and causing it to stay jammed shut.
Are you sure the rod is correctly in its place? A previous time when I replaced another door's actuator, I put everything back and didn't put that rod back in place, and my door would not open from the outside or inside. I had to reach in and pull down on that rod, which opened the door. Then with the door open, I connected it properly and everything was good.
Myra panel is off currently. I had the panel on the first time I tested it but I hadn’t installed the screws. Just the pressure clips. So with the door closed I was able to remove the panel. Double checked everything. Then discovered the latch was getting jammed. Thought I released it. Was still planning on replacing it. Then my Dad closed the door again to test it. Now I haven’t been able to get it open again
Myra panel is off currently. I had the panel on the first time I tested it but I hadn’t installed the screws. Just the pressure clips. So with the door closed I was able to remove the panel. Double checked everything. Then discovered the latch was getting jammed. Thought I released it. Was still planning on replacing it. Then my Dad closed the door again to test it. Now I haven’t been able to get it open again
by pushing down on this piece I was able to manually open the door. I also discovered what the initial issue was. One of the plastic locking arm pieces on the actuator were not in its proper place. I then discovered that you can not use a cheap after market actuator. After reassembling everything (for the 8th time) I thought I had it figured out. Then my key fob no longer worked for any doors. Hit the buttons and nothing.
did some research. Discovered that. Then I opened the oem actuator, removed the burnt out motor, opened the eBay actuator, removed the the good motor, and and swapped them. After putting it all back together a final time. Double checking everything is in its home. BAM! Door opens normal, locks behaving, and key fob working properly! It was quite the journey but very pleased I resolved it with out taking it to a shop.
By pushing down on that plastic part. I was able to open the door manually, in the locked position.
Again, I encourage people to go to the dealer or connect techstream and DISABLE that nonsense of locking/unlocking all the doors when in/out of park, moving over 15mph etc...
I did that to mine in the first few months of ownership. Its worth it!!
07-27-21, 05:01 PM
My passenger door is stuck shut
