is250 wheel bearing recommendations
09-15-21, 10:47 PM
#17
Lexus Champion
Pretty sure the original is made my NSK the Timkin will have an NSK bearing.
09-16-21, 06:59 AM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks all.
And thanks for suggesting RockAuto. The bearings on the site are the cheapest I’ve seen.
I also started researching alternative ways to remove the hub\bearings if this removal wants to test my patience haha.
And thanks for suggesting RockAuto. The bearings on the site are the cheapest I’ve seen.
I also started researching alternative ways to remove the hub\bearings if this removal wants to test my patience haha.
09-16-21, 08:10 AM
#19
I haven't done our IS but with the 4 bolts out get a long brass drift and a BFH. Place the drift in line with the flange (parallel to the rotor) hit the flange so you rotate the housing a small amount and then use the puller or sledge hammer...
A giant pipe wrench and jack or your foot could do the same thing. Rotate about the diameter of the bolt and then spray it and rotate it back. Breaking the bond is the ticket.
Make sense?
A giant pipe wrench and jack or your foot could do the same thing. Rotate about the diameter of the bolt and then spray it and rotate it back. Breaking the bond is the ticket.
Make sense?
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markdav801 (09-16-21)
09-16-21, 10:12 AM
#20
When your driving in a parking lot slow with the windows down you could hear the bearings making a “tinking” noise while under load. If you jack the car up and spin the drivers wheel back and forth you could hear the bearing play compared to the passenger side. I would guess there is a design flaw with the geometry of the suspension coupled with the LCA bushings that cause the dynamic toe problems with the IS platform. Probably some lateral forces being applied to the bearing raceway that causes premature wear and runout. Also the ABS sensor requires a small flathead screwdriver pushed into the slot and then it pulls right off. Its hard to see because of the location of the plug but took me a few tries to figure out what tool I needed.
My test is highway speed and saw the wheel slowly back and forth like you're making a slalom run. Once pointed right for example and you steer back left, the right front wheel is now loaded nearly 1.5X or more compared to the left. If noise appears that is not present when going straight, it's likely that bearing.
This can be done in your own lane, and listen to both sides. If it growls, when turning back, bearings are suspect.
Also, for anything that ends up being a press fit with tight tolerance I would not use anti-seize. It can actually bind things up. Granted, this wheel bearing should not be an interference fit into the housing so it shouldn't be an issue. Once while pushing a wheel bearing onto an axle I used anti-seize and it took a 10x more powerful press to fully seat the bearing. It became a nightmare. Again, reference is an actual interference fit bearing that only goes together or comes apart using a press.
03-22-24, 04:14 PM
#21
2nd gear
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OEM bearings are manufactured by the original equipment manufacturer and are typically of high quality, ensuring a precise fit and reliable performance. Aftermarket Bearing MFG offer a wider range of options in terms of brands and price points. It's essential to research reputable brands known for their quality and durability. Consider factors like warranty, reviews, and compatibility with your vehicle before making a decision.
04-01-24, 04:17 PM
#22
Pit Crew
I hope Moog is good
04-02-24, 10:08 AM
#23
I went with NSK from RockAuto. If you look at even Timken wheel bearings. They have the NSK brand on them. I only changed my front passenger side on a GS350. Due to the fact that I hit a large chunk of concrete on the road. Well bent the hell out of the stock 19" wheel too.
Last edited by MikeFig82; 04-02-24 at 01:53 PM.
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