All,

Any suggestions on aftermarket or OEM wheels bearings? I couldn't find a thread specifically on this.


2008 RWD

 

@markdav801 I'm not sure what year or drivetrain (RWD or AWD) you have, but my recommendation would be to go with KOYO. I have had good experience with them and believe they are the OEM supplier for Toyota. There are some listing on eBay where the prices are much lower than elsewhere.

 

RockAuto sells TIMKEN, very good quality bearings.

 

Def look on rockauto. Likely find a good quality Japanese bearing. The labor alone says don't skimp out to save a few bucks.. JM2C

 

I have two new oem one from my 07” IS 350 which i used for about 500 miles i can sell for cheap

 

Front or rear?

 

front, and i have one rear used and removed at 100k for free if you want to buy two front ones?

 

how much and what brand for the front? PM me?

 

I also went with a Timken branded replacement rear wheel bearing. Quality component, you won't be disappointed!

 

Thanks for the input, all. I think I may go Timken as well.

 

I just recently did the Drivers front and used Moog. Prepare to use a 20lb sledge hammer for the last step of removal. It seriously took 10 minutes to get the car on jack stands, take the wheel off, take the caliper and rotor off and 1 hour trying to find a bigger hammer to knock the bearing assembly off of the steering knuckle. I said alot of bad words that day.

 

Haha. I'm sure I will too. Slide hammer didnt work well?

So many brands. Have you used MOOG before? Thoughts on it?

 

I have used Moog before on my Acura TL Type S and have the opinion that it is better quality and design then the OEM assembly. I used a 10lb slide hammer and it wouldnt even budge even after a few baths in PB Blaster. If you can use a metal chisel and start working your way around it will eventually start to let loose while beating the living **** out of it with a sledge. 20lb sledge and about a dozen wacks and it will come off. Then clean it up with a wire wheel and some anti-seize and put it all back together. I had to do an alignment afterwards because the car was pulling to the right ever so lightly. Good Luck!

 

symptoms of bad wheel bearing? was it making noise?

 

When your driving in a parking lot slow with the windows down you could hear the bearings making a “tinking” noise while under load. If you jack the car up and spin the drivers wheel back and forth you could hear the bearing play compared to the passenger side. I would guess there is a design flaw with the geometry of the suspension coupled with the LCA bushings that cause the dynamic toe problems with the IS platform. Probably some lateral forces being applied to the bearing raceway that causes premature wear and runout. Also the ABS sensor requires a small flathead screwdriver pushed into the slot and then it pulls right off. Its hard to see because of the location of the plug but took me a few tries to figure out what tool I needed.