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Ok guys I got an 09 is250. the lexus servixe logs online shows no service on trans oil. mine is dark and the vehicle will sometimes jump in first. Only sometimes. Sometikes heavy sometimes soft.
I am trying to find the culprit. Is it the trans? A shift solenoid or is my first gear just going to ****?
Pic below of the color of trans fluid,( ignore that it says power steering)
Should I replace the oil?
Will it damage it more?
WILL LUCAS STOP SLIP HELP?
I need answers as this is my only car, daily driver, I can afford to fix it myself, but can't afford a new car thanks!
Ok guys I got an 09 is250. the lexus servixe logs online shows no service on trans oil. mine is dark and the vehicle will sometimes jump in first. Only sometimes. Sometikes heavy sometimes soft.
I am trying to find the culprit. Is it the trans? A shift solenoid or is my first gear just going to ****?
Pic below of the color of trans fluid,( ignore that it says power steering)
Should I replace the oil?
Will it damage it more?
WILL LUCAS STOP SLIP HELP?
I need answers as this is my only car, daily driver, I can afford to fix it myself, but can't afford a new car thanks!
Start by checking the level (diagnostic info), low fluid can cause this, then get as much of the old out by following this procedure.
Just an FYI about transmission scan codes. The trans has an input shaft speed sensor and output shaft speed sensor. These two sensors determine if the gear selected is the gear the transmission is in. That said, when a solenoid set passes fluid to a clutch drum or band to select a gear, those two sensor wait and listen to see if the selection worked and the gear selected matches the speed sensors. i.e. TCU said you solenoids should be selecting 3rd gear, the speed differential between the input/output determines if this happened.
So, my point is this (and no finger pointing involved). people read solenoid faults as absolute faults when in fact they are only the last communication.
That said, this is where solenoid testing matters. If they test OK, it is something downstream. It could be a leaking check-ball in the valve body, slipping or broken clutch bands, slipping or worn clutch pack, broken hard parts, an internal oil leak. So many things happen downstream of the the solenoids yet solenoids get replaced for error codes when they have nothing to do with the failure. They are simply the last command. If not followed look at them and everything downstream of them.
Just an FYI about transmission scan codes. The trans has an input shaft speed sensor and output shaft speed sensor. These two sensors determine if the gear selected is the gear the transmission is in. That said, when a solenoid set passes fluid to a clutch drum or band to select a gear, those two sensor wait and listen to see if the selection worked and the gear selected matches the speed sensors. i.e. TCU said you solenoids should be selecting 3rd gear, the speed differential between the input/output determines if this happened.
So, my point is this (and no finger pointing involved). people read solenoid faults as absolute faults when in fact they are only the last communication.
That said, this is where solenoid testing matters. If they test OK, it is something downstream. It could be a leaking check-ball in the valve body, slipping or broken clutch bands, slipping or worn clutch pack, broken hard parts, an internal oil leak. So many things happen downstream of the the solenoids yet solenoids get replaced for error codes when they have nothing to do with the failure. They are simply the last command. If not followed look at them and everything downstream of them.
Make sense?
#2IS Transmission troubleshooting
Wow wonderful info, yet im not getting any codes and haven't been. Maybe it doesn't have anything to do with the trans im starting to think because my scan tool and my bosses snap on aren't bringing anything up.
I have also recently noticed a click from the rear wheels when going in reverse or forward. Only from a dead stop though. Now if I dont come to a complete stop at say a stop sign it won't do it.
I had the diff oil replaced with the lexus recommended oils and even when I swapped that out it was darker the night, no flakes or metal bits though.
So im kinda of lost at this point.
Is it my trans or is it something else?
Would it always pop codes if there is any issue with it?
I looked at my rear cv axle and the boots are still good.
Trans mounts seem good and I dont see any leaks from the trans engine or drive shaft when im in the pit.
Everything seems secure.
I want to post a small video clip of the sound but it won't let me . Probably going to have to upload to YouTube and then post a link here.
Has anyone else had random clicks coming from the rear (its not consistent, and its not all the time, just a single click, sometimes when I accelerate)
Things replaced so far have been:
Rear diff oil
LOF
Spark plugs (laser iridium) ngks
Plenum gaskets x3
Front wheels hubs (stopped the front clicks from happening)
Still planning on:
Maf cleaning
TB clean
Trans drain and fill
Wow wonderful info, yet im not getting any codes and haven't been. Maybe it doesn't have anything to do with the trans im starting to think because my scan tool and my bosses snap on aren't bringing anything up.
I have also recently noticed a click from the rear wheels when going in reverse or forward. Only from a dead stop though. Now if I dont come to a complete stop at say a stop sign it won't do it.
I had the diff oil replaced with the lexus recommended oils and even when I swapped that out it was darker the night, no flakes or metal bits though.
So im kinda of lost at this point.
Is it my trans or is it something else?
Would it always pop codes if there is any issue with it?
I looked at my rear cv axle and the boots are still good.
Trans mounts seem good and I dont see any leaks from the trans engine or drive shaft when im in the pit.
Everything seems secure.
I want to post a small video clip of the sound but it won't let me . Probably going to have to upload to YouTube and then post a link here.
Has anyone else had random clicks coming from the rear (its not consistent, and its not all the time, just a single click, sometimes when I accelerate)
Things replaced so far have been:
Rear diff oil
LOF
Spark plugs (laser iridium) ngks
Plenum gaskets x3
Front wheels hubs (stopped the front clicks from happening)
Still planning on:
Maf cleaning
TB clean
Trans drain and fill
That transmission fluid looks like ****. I would change it and go from there.
Thank you so much. Now are ypu guys using like Bluetooth obd2 for the Temps and all that? I'll be ordering my stuff and probably doing this next week and then ill report back with my findings
Thank you so much. Now are ypu guys using like Bluetooth obd2 for the Temps and all that? I'll be ordering my stuff and probably doing this next week and then ill report back with my findings
I did and it worked like a champ. 2013 fluid began to overflow just as it should when checked during that write up..
You could also get the opinion of shop. For me if the trans is slipping you'll see the RPM rise while the car is hardly moving.. that's a bad problem.
I did and it worked like a champ. 2013 fluid began to overflow just as it should when checked during that write up..
You could also get the opinion of shop. For me if the trans is slipping you'll see the RPM rise while the car is hardly moving.. that's a bad problem.
Well you see it does do that, intermittently but now most recent and stronger. Around 3k to 3.5k it start to slug? Then after 3.5k rpm it jolts and then finally shifts to second. Does it in manual mode to even though I rarely use it. Now if I let off the gas during acceleration then back on between 3k and 3.5k rpm it won't do it and if it does it so minimal tou won't really notice.
I'll try to get a video for you guys to show the way it does it.
Have you ever looked at the intake valves for carbon build up?
This sure sounds like a carbon issue killing throttle response. The ECU uses the cars intake vacuum to help determine engine load, if carbon build up is a factor, it directly impacts engine efficiency and likely causes the symptoms you have if we assume the transmission is not slipping and the ECU is trying manage the shift points with a plugged up engine or CAT.
Have you ever looked at the intake valves for carbon build up?
This sure sounds like a carbon issue killing throttle response. The ECU uses the cars intake vacuum to help determine engine load, if carbon build up is a factor, it directly impacts engine efficiency and likely causes the symptoms you have if we assume the transmission is not slipping and the ECU is trying manage the shift points with a plugged up engine or CAT.
What do you know about the carbon status?
here you go some pics from my last spark plugs change last week Inside intake plastic plenum Drivers side valve cover Passanger side valve cover
10-05-21, 10:24 AM
Transmission HELP
