How can I drift my RWD IS250?
#3
Are you familiar with Chrisfix on Youtube? He had alot of videos about working on cars, and is extraordinarily good at explaining what he is doing. He is active in the drifting community too, and has alot of videos describing his experiences and techniques. Here is the first of several:
#4
There are a lot of factors working against you to drift this platform, but it's not impossible.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
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AngelV24 (09-26-24)
#7
There are a lot of factors working against you to drift this platform, but it's not impossible.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
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#8
Both subframes are locked down as much as can be with the factory rubber in place, yes. I tried with the pictures on install, but the S10 5G is an impossible shape and size to keep in a pocket--putting it in a case makes it too big for a pocket; it's length and gloss make it fall out of a pocket at the merest hint of the idea--all the pictures are super distorted from the cracked/scratched back panel from so many trips to the shop floor. I've developed an exhaust leak on the driver's side header from either never installing or forgetting to torque and losing the upper rearmost header nut, so now I have to replace that header gasket. I hate that side.
#9
Both subframes are locked down as much as can be with the factory rubber in place, yes. I tried with the pictures on install, but the S10 5G is an impossible shape and size to keep in a pocket--putting it in a case makes it too big for a pocket; it's length and gloss make it fall out of a pocket at the merest hint of the idea--all the pictures are super distorted from the cracked/scratched back panel from so many trips to the shop floor. I've developed an exhaust leak on the driver's side header from either never installing or forgetting to torque and losing the upper rearmost header nut, so now I have to replace that header gasket. I hate that side.
Heck, now that I think of it, it could be a way to lower the tail and not change springs!
#10
Well, I've yet to make the car feel like it's built specifically for the track; it's still very much a roadgoing highway vehicle. I'd very much recommend the Magic Collars to folks like you in pursuit of a more fun street car. Quite easy to install, and if it's too NVH-y for you, just another 2 hours to remove.
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2013FSport (11-12-21)
#11
Differential
There are a lot of factors working against you to drift this platform, but it's not impossible.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
First thing you got against you are the traction nannies. I turn mine off with the pedal dance (two stomps and hold the brake, pull up and hold the parking brake twice, repeat until dash flashes), because I'm not 100% on the disable button on the dash. Might just be me and circumstances, but I swear the button leaves some nannies on.
With the traction nannies off, your car will only spin one wheel from the factory until you swap in a LSD or torsen differential. I personally have a Y38 torsen from a wrecked '13 BRZ, and maintain that it's the best mod I've done to the car.
Your next big hurdle will be power...the 4GR is hardly able to do a standing burnout, so drifting it will be more about suspension setup and attitude while approaching the apex until you get some more power. Even the 3.0L 3GR I swapped in doesn't feel like it'd be able to keep the tires spinning without a good 1000+lbs of weight loss to the platform.
Next will be the Jell-o pudding suspension bushings. Everyone's favorite to replace is the front lower rear control arm bushing, but every piece of rubber Toyotacult installed in the suspension needs to go, IMO. At some point, I intend to replace all my rubber with Whiteline replacements. I also have the Magic Collar subframe cups in, and they also help add more force to the tires.
While the 2IS is certainly well suited for a drift build...as with every toyotacult product, you have to invest a lot more time and effort into getting it there than with other platforms. Compared to, say, a G35 sedan, the G35's drift ready on the showroom floor. Or any manual trans BMW or AMG. Or a Mustang, for that matter.
#13
At 3000 RPM w a 26 rear tire (255 40R18) in 4th gear (1:1 ratio), the 3.9 gear = 59.43 MPH dist traveled 0.991 miles.
W/4.1 gear at 3K thats 56.67 MPH and 0.944 miles travel.
6th gear @3k 101.4 vs 96.7
In the city you will never know that tiny distance and even on the highway it will be negligible vs what you benefit from it. And frankly in most cases lower tq engines will improve mpgs and get a tiny tiny dose of improved acceleration. In short everything to gain and nothing to loose.
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