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As you can see, not only does it show oil dilution at 0.8%, but the tech even comments on it. The only reason it was even that level was because my car sat for an hour before my mechanic started it, then drove it to the lift before taking the sample. This was 5K on an inexpensive quality Synthetic 5W30, and even then they were recommending 7K instead of 5K
You didn't read the thread I provided, or you would realize they are not actually measuring fuel dilution but are using a calculation to
come up with a reading, Here is the specific post #37 of that thread:
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@lobuxracer…….I’m sure in real life you are an awesome guy, however you have asked me to interpret your data and tell you what you’ve missed. Pardon me in advance if I offend you in any way or manner, but I will give you complete honesty.
Where do I begin? Blackstone…….this is a misguided lab, their equipment is old and outdated, they're making recommendations on misguided information, and in turn put out a lot of bad info and damage a lot of peoples engines…..lol…..They’re not even ISO 9001 which is a joke of a certification anyways. I personally don’t see them ever achieving ISO17025:2005, without changing ownership and spending $2-3mil. Ryan doesn’t care to certify his lab, well because all of his customers are on the retail/consumer end side. I apologize; none of you on these forums have any idea on how to interpret data, one bit. Until you understand the ASTM methods of testing procedures and have experience working with the manufacturers making the engines and testing their racing teams, you’ll be lost. Can’t publicy acknowledge affiliations at this time but some of you will catch the drift.
I’m assuming from the values I’ve seen you’re running the oe oil filter and air intake filter…….I could be wrong but the information was not provided, I will assume OE as such.
As an FYI, for you stump the dummies out there, yes it is possible to stump me but that’s because you’re lying. And please don’t urinate in the oil, we can tell through ICP you’re low on nutrients.
Lobuxracer, you’ve had elevated iron readings needlessly for YEARS. Part of that is the M1 formulation, in the past it wouldn’t protect in the high pressure areas on the engine, which is why in 2012 they changed the formulation to include a different additive package. Magnesium Sulfinate was used as an additive and it provides antiwear in extreme pressure areas and it boosts the TBN value by a decent amount. They what they did was drop the calcium carbonate/sulfinate additive pack and compensated with the magnesium sulfinate to stay below the sulfinated ash test. Zinc changed somewhat to a ZDTP ester, which provided some of the AW they were looking for in 2013. It’s still and was a good formula. It’s done fine but you’ve needlessly had fuel dilution the entire time you’ve owned this car. This is a reason blackstone is misguided, and partially why they’re not certified. The oil in your IS-F has been diluted by fuel not by sheer. Because the viscosity improvers in M1 are actually pretty good.
The insoluble’s have consistently been too high the entire time. In other words, the oil is carrying too much stuff, becomes worn and now actually becomes a third party wear agent.
This engine is extremely well built, props to Yamaha for developing the head and the clearances on them, and props to the guys at Toyota that made the rest. I remember when this engine was first being developed and ultimately lead to the collaboration on the LF-A,
Chromium – I don’t think your rings have ever fully seated. There’s not one trace of them in any of your tests, dating all the way to the begin. Would explain the fuel dilution from almost the beginning. If I had met you sooner, I would have told you to seat those rings, aggressively.
Iron- 35ppm, exceedingly high, not damage level or harmful, probably just some oil pump wear taking place, mostly fuel dilution related. Historically you have long term wear, and now that there are a lot of miles, there is probably some micro corrosion wear, the AF test, cannot be performed by Blackstone, you can even see on their website, they publicly state they test some things “at another facility” a.k.a. they call someone like us to do the real stuff.
The oil is not being filtered well, 35 is way too high, however not horrible considering 14,000 miles. I guess I’d be interested in your driving habits…..
Copper – M1 does a very good job mitigating strong acids causing issues, in the beginning you saw it elevated as it seated, mostly the heat exchangers dumping it. Good reading
Lead – there is no conforming lead in the composition of this engine. I did see it early on, probably from gasket making materials and or something used as an antiknock index additive in the fuel. Consistently been low, since there is no lead in this engine. Fine
Tin- interesting…...So there really shouldn’t be any tin, it’s not normally a bearing alloy until you get deep into the bearing, may indicate some long term wear. It’s likely related to the valvetrain somewhere and/or there is also a timing chain tensioner wearing, chain stretch likely also taking effect. Not Good and very concerning.
Nickel – wrist pins are taking a big beating, and needless fuel dilution is taking place. Nickel is a valve guide alloy in this engine. Not good, should be 0 and was for a while
Silver – Most likely the heat exchanger braze coming loose, i.e. the engine got hot, wasn’t running right or dirt ingress that took place or just the oil becoming abrasive from Post EGR fuels residuals.
Titanium – zero, would be used as a tracer in this engine, good.
Potassium – clean historically, never had coolant ingress, so likely contamination from sampling by the lab at some point during possession.
Boron – normal oil additive, completely depleted for this extended drain, would switch to M1 0W-20 EP unless you are racing or tracking your IS-F
Silicon – Elevated, likely dirt ingress…..some…..it’s also an alloy in the cyclinders and pistons. You need to get this under 10ppm, especially for the2UR
Sodium – additive in the oil and also dirt, not sure physically where you are at, but I would study the dirt in your area to get an idea of what it looks like ingested post burn, but it’s in the normal ranges. Only other place I can think of is from fuel tanks that were previously used for diesel and then they cleaned them and used them for gas.
Magnesium – additive from Infineum, please don’t ask how I know that.
Zinc, Phos – normal, tells you nothing looking at these values since you can’t see the active capability and there is no knowledge on the AW capability.
Barium – dye marker or grease trace, usually comes from the oil filter treads
Visc – too thin! The oil has historically been too thin. It is an SAE 30 right now only because it thickened itself back up. It’s far too thin; if you buy a 5W-30 do you want an SAE 30? If you want a 20, just go buy one, it’ll do better than this 30 has in staying in grade.
Oil did sheer and thin from post EGR fuel dilution, meaning residuals are causing problems in the engine, classic on these new modern engines where a lot of compromise has to be made.
Flash Point – 390….this is probably an open cup flash where they do it under a hood…..it is not an accurate test for today’s new fuels. Should be well above 400, this car has chronically had FD it’s entire life.
Fuel % - completely inaccurate, they are making calculations and not actually testing for this. Another machine blackstone does not have, GC. FD has likely been at 1%-2% the entire time. RED FLAG.
Antifreeze % - they’re doing water by crackle test……not accurate but I agree there probably isn’t coolant
Water PPM – crackle test? They’re not doing Karl Fischer. Their method is so inaccurate, I don’t know how much water you have in your engine or don’t have.
Insolubles – 0.3%?? <0.6%, what is wrong with those people. On a clean engine you should have 0-0.1%. You’ve never been there. Your air filter and oil filtration is hammering this oil. It’s not M1’s fault! This is a VVT engine with 4 cams, and many many valves. You’re tearing this engine up for no reason. Wasted $$$ on bad analysis, engine has long term wear damage in my opinion at this point.
You need to get a better oil filter, I recommend the WIX XP, I’ve tested the filter many times at work and I can tell you this filter is probably better than WIX knows it is.
TBN – it’s depleted, they say it’s strong? Ok the acid is probably in reasonable control, but with the fuel dilution you get varnish formation from fuel, it’s really hard to read. Most labs don’t do a good job of knowing it’s there. You need different tests at this point
Honestly, analytically if you accept this much wear, you can probably go to 18,000. The car isn’t in tune, never has been……… you’re beating the F--- out of your engine.
Also, I’d recommend changing out the plugs and coils and boots at this point. Check for chain stretch, switch your oil and filter. And get a new air filter in there or look at the CAI for leaks. M1 EP 0W-20 with WIX XP is my recommendation for what you want to do and this engine. This is why Lexus doesn't want people going 14k. I would seriously consider some introspecting and ask if you would be willing to accept maybe your science project is over and you move down to 10K..........And no I will not divulge for the people that have PMed, how I know the inner design of the 2UR-GSE.
Blackstone has royally misguided you unintentionally.
You didn't read the thread I provided, or you would realize they are not actually measuring fuel dilution but are using a calculation to
come up with a reading, Here is the specific post #37 of that thread:
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 435 Likes: 43
Received 118 Likes on 65 Posts
DefaultAm I supposed to use the twitter thing “@” to refer to another member?
@lobuxracer…….I’m sure in real life you are an awesome guy, however you have asked me to interpret your data and tell you what you’ve missed. Pardon me in advance if I offend you in any way or manner, but I will give you complete honesty.
Where do I begin? Blackstone…….this is a misguided lab, their equipment is old and outdated, they're making recommendations on misguided information, and in turn put out a lot of bad info and damage a lot of peoples engines…..lol…..They’re not even ISO 9001 which is a joke of a certification anyways. I personally don’t see them ever achieving ISO17025:2005, without changing ownership and spending $2-3mil. Ryan doesn’t care to certify his lab, well because all of his customers are on the retail/consumer end side. I apologize; none of you on these forums have any idea on how to interpret data, one bit. Until you understand the ASTM methods of testing procedures and have experience working with the manufacturers making the engines and testing their racing teams, you’ll be lost. Can’t publicy acknowledge affiliations at this time but some of you will catch the drift.
I’m assuming from the values I’ve seen you’re running the oe oil filter and air intake filter…….I could be wrong but the information was not provided, I will assume OE as such.
As an FYI, for you stump the dummies out there, yes it is possible to stump me but that’s because you’re lying. And please don’t urinate in the oil, we can tell through ICP you’re low on nutrients.
Lobuxracer, you’ve had elevated iron readings needlessly for YEARS. Part of that is the M1 formulation, in the past it wouldn’t protect in the high pressure areas on the engine, which is why in 2012 they changed the formulation to include a different additive package. Magnesium Sulfinate was used as an additive and it provides antiwear in extreme pressure areas and it boosts the TBN value by a decent amount. They what they did was drop the calcium carbonate/sulfinate additive pack and compensated with the magnesium sulfinate to stay below the sulfinated ash test. Zinc changed somewhat to a ZDTP ester, which provided some of the AW they were looking for in 2013. It’s still and was a good formula. It’s done fine but you’ve needlessly had fuel dilution the entire time you’ve owned this car. This is a reason blackstone is misguided, and partially why they’re not certified. The oil in your IS-F has been diluted by fuel not by sheer. Because the viscosity improvers in M1 are actually pretty good.
The insoluble’s have consistently been too high the entire time. In other words, the oil is carrying too much stuff, becomes worn and now actually becomes a third party wear agent.
This engine is extremely well built, props to Yamaha for developing the head and the clearances on them, and props to the guys at Toyota that made the rest. I remember when this engine was first being developed and ultimately lead to the collaboration on the LF-A,
Chromium – I don’t think your rings have ever fully seated. There’s not one trace of them in any of your tests, dating all the way to the begin. Would explain the fuel dilution from almost the beginning. If I had met you sooner, I would have told you to seat those rings, aggressively.
Iron- 35ppm, exceedingly high, not damage level or harmful, probably just some oil pump wear taking place, mostly fuel dilution related. Historically you have long term wear, and now that there are a lot of miles, there is probably some micro corrosion wear, the AF test, cannot be performed by Blackstone, you can even see on their website, they publicly state they test some things “at another facility” a.k.a. they call someone like us to do the real stuff.
The oil is not being filtered well, 35 is way too high, however not horrible considering 14,000 miles. I guess I’d be interested in your driving habits…..
Copper – M1 does a very good job mitigating strong acids causing issues, in the beginning you saw it elevated as it seated, mostly the heat exchangers dumping it. Good reading
Lead – there is no conforming lead in the composition of this engine. I did see it early on, probably from gasket making materials and or something used as an antiknock index additive in the fuel. Consistently been low, since there is no lead in this engine. Fine
Tin- interesting…...So there really shouldn’t be any tin, it’s not normally a bearing alloy until you get deep into the bearing, may indicate some long term wear. It’s likely related to the valvetrain somewhere and/or there is also a timing chain tensioner wearing, chain stretch likely also taking effect. Not Good and very concerning.
Nickel – wrist pins are taking a big beating, and needless fuel dilution is taking place. Nickel is a valve guide alloy in this engine. Not good, should be 0 and was for a while
Silver – Most likely the heat exchanger braze coming loose, i.e. the engine got hot, wasn’t running right or dirt ingress that took place or just the oil becoming abrasive from Post EGR fuels residuals.
Titanium – zero, would be used as a tracer in this engine, good.
Potassium – clean historically, never had coolant ingress, so likely contamination from sampling by the lab at some point during possession.
Boron – normal oil additive, completely depleted for this extended drain, would switch to M1 0W-20 EP unless you are racing or tracking your IS-F
Silicon – Elevated, likely dirt ingress…..some…..it’s also an alloy in the cyclinders and pistons. You need to get this under 10ppm, especially for the2UR
Sodium – additive in the oil and also dirt, not sure physically where you are at, but I would study the dirt in your area to get an idea of what it looks like ingested post burn, but it’s in the normal ranges. Only other place I can think of is from fuel tanks that were previously used for diesel and then they cleaned them and used them for gas.
Magnesium – additive from Infineum, please don’t ask how I know that.
Zinc, Phos – normal, tells you nothing looking at these values since you can’t see the active capability and there is no knowledge on the AW capability.
Barium – dye marker or grease trace, usually comes from the oil filter treads
Visc – too thin! The oil has historically been too thin. It is an SAE 30 right now only because it thickened itself back up. It’s far too thin; if you buy a 5W-30 do you want an SAE 30? If you want a 20, just go buy one, it’ll do better than this 30 has in staying in grade.
Oil did sheer and thin from post EGR fuel dilution, meaning residuals are causing problems in the engine, classic on these new modern engines where a lot of compromise has to be made.
Flash Point – 390….this is probably an open cup flash where they do it under a hood…..it is not an accurate test for today’s new fuels. Should be well above 400, this car has chronically had FD it’s entire life.
Fuel % - completely inaccurate, they are making calculations and not actually testing for this. Another machine blackstone does not have, GC. FD has likely been at 1%-2% the entire time. RED FLAG.
Antifreeze % - they’re doing water by crackle test……not accurate but I agree there probably isn’t coolant
Water PPM – crackle test? They’re not doing Karl Fischer. Their method is so inaccurate, I don’t know how much water you have in your engine or don’t have.
Insolubles – 0.3%?? <0.6%, what is wrong with those people. On a clean engine you should have 0-0.1%. You’ve never been there. Your air filter and oil filtration is hammering this oil. It’s not M1’s fault! This is a VVT engine with 4 cams, and many many valves. You’re tearing this engine up for no reason. Wasted $$$ on bad analysis, engine has long term wear damage in my opinion at this point.
You need to get a better oil filter, I recommend the WIX XP, I’ve tested the filter many times at work and I can tell you this filter is probably better than WIX knows it is.
TBN – it’s depleted, they say it’s strong? Ok the acid is probably in reasonable control, but with the fuel dilution you get varnish formation from fuel, it’s really hard to read. Most labs don’t do a good job of knowing it’s there. You need different tests at this point
Honestly, analytically if you accept this much wear, you can probably go to 18,000. The car isn’t in tune, never has been……… you’re beating the F--- out of your engine.
Also, I’d recommend changing out the plugs and coils and boots at this point. Check for chain stretch, switch your oil and filter. And get a new air filter in there or look at the CAI for leaks. M1 EP 0W-20 with WIX XP is my recommendation for what you want to do and this engine. This is why Lexus doesn't want people going 14k. I would seriously consider some introspecting and ask if you would be willing to accept maybe your science project is over and you move down to 10K..........And no I will not divulge for the people that have PMed, how I know the inner design of the 2UR-GSE.
Blackstone has royally misguided you unintentionally.
I did read some of it, I have no idea who this person is or their qualifications. So just on his word on a forum, I'm supposed to believe all these oil analysis labs are BS? Labs like Blackstone and Oil Analysers (which I've also used) are just fraulant? LOL I don't know what to say to that
If you read the thread, it is long, but gets to the point in the first 5 pages, he does oil analysis for
large companies and racing organizations not just some guy spouting nonsense...
Just trying to share some information you may not have been aware of that may help your
decision making.
If you read the thread, it is long, but gets to the point in the first 5 pages, he does oil analysis for
large companies and racing organizations not just some guy spouting nonsense...
Just trying to share some information you may not have been aware of that may help your
decision making.
And I fully appreciate that! Just keep in mind that they are his competition
I appreciate everyone's input, I find everyone's personal experience all valuable. Let me just clarify some things. I'm not advocating people switch to Amsoil, and I'm not advocating everyone go to 10K or 12K oil change intervals. I just wanted to try Amsoil, as I've heard so much positive, as well as negatives, the number one being they are overpriced. That is true, Amsoil is insanely expensive. This was more curiosity. The best scenario is it lives up to its reputation and the price is worth the performance/mileage you get out it, worst case is I wasted $100. Not the first time (just look at my Dogecoin holdings LOL). I'll probably end up going back to Idemitsu, or maybe Kirkland 5W30 Synthetic anyway.
As I've mentioned earlier in this thread, I've owned 7 Toyota's over the last 30 years, two of them reached well over 200K, same engine, same transmission. I've never blown or damaged an engine yet. OK, when I was 19, but that doesn't count
I appreciate everyone's input, I find everyone's personal experience all valuable. Let me just clarify some things. I'm not advocating people switch to Amsoil, and I'm not advocating everyone go to 10K or 12K oil change intervals. I just wanted to try Amsoil, as I've heard so much positive, as well as negatives, the number one being they are overpriced. That is true, Amsoil is insanely expensive. This was more curiosity. The best scenario is it lives up to its reputation and the price is worth the performance/mileage you get out it, worst case is I wasted $100. Not the first time (just look at my Dogecoin holdings LOL). I'll probably end up going back to Idemitsu, or maybe Kirkland 5W30 Synthetic anyway.
As I've mentioned earlier in this thread, I've owned 7 Toyota's over the last 30 years, two of them reached well over 200K, same engine, same transmission. I've never blown or damaged an engine yet. OK, when I was 19, but that doesn't count
Just my 2 cents to you and others. All of today's Oils are very good. Again even Walmart brand synthetic oil is made by a Oil company. Even that fact there is some kind of of Member cost to even buy Amsoil made me leary. For our type engines in my opinion any oil should be switched at say 6k - 7k. They are all still subject to contaminations and breakdown that you would not see unless you teardown or leak down/compression. So Amsoil is not excluded to contamination and breakdown that does not provide the best protection for internal metals engine lubrication and wear.
Someone who leases their car 3-4 years and or trades 3-4 years, ok 10k, go for it. Our engines run extra tight tolerances. If Not then special Oil and over 7k oil changes is not good long term. Just saying.
Look past 13:55 in this engine teardown vid to understand. Metal on Metal inside.
Just my 2 cents to you and others. All of today's Oils are very good. Again even Walmart brand synthetic oil is made by a Oil company. Even that fact there is some kind of of Member cost to even buy Amsoil made me leary. For our type engines in my opinion any oil should be switched at say 6k - 7k. They are all still subject to contaminations and breakdown that you would not see unless you teardown or leak down/compression. So Amsoil is not excluded to contamination and breakdown that does not provide the best protection for internal metals engine lubrication and wear.
Someone who leases their car 3-4 years and or trades 3-4 years, ok 10k, go for it. Our engines run extra tight tolerances. If Not then special Oil and over 7k oil changes is not good long term. Just saying.
I totally agree with the 6K to 7K change intervals. I'm one of those people who buy and drive until my mechanic says it can't be fixed anymore. So far I haven't been able to do that with Toyotas, unless you count the time my wife plowed our 2004 Sienna into a parked car. She was overly tired from a trip we came from and blacked out
I totally agree with the 6K to 7K change intervals. I'm one of those people who buy and drive until my mechanic says it can't be fixed anymore. So far I haven't been able to do that with Toyotas, unless you count the time my wife plowed our 2004 Sienna into a parked car. She was overly tired from a trip we came from and blacked out
Well my significant other just recently wrecked the 2016 Kia Optima SXL 2.0T we owned. It had 75k and in spite of all the Kia engines blowing up, I changed the oil every 6k. I had a leakdown and compression down and it was still running like only 15k miles. Kia asked to do a ECU flash and we agreed and they gave us a Lifetime Warranty on the engine.
I had planned to keep it till the floorboard rotted away forever. I was not happy about how someone ran into the pass side rear and the 2015 was done!
Well my significant other just recently wrecked the 2016 Kia Optima SXL 2.0T we owned. It had 75k and in spite of all the Kia engines blowing up, I changed the oil every 6k. I had a leakdown and compression down and it was still running like only 15k miles. Kia asked to do a ECU flash and we agreed and they gave us a Lifetime Warranty on the engine.
I had planned to keep it till the floorboard rotted away forever. I was not happy about how someone ran into the pass side rear and the 2015 was done!
Well that sucks. Our 2004 Sienna had 145k on it, it had the 3.3L V6. I replaced it with 2013 Sienna with the 3.5L. Solid engine and transmission, but eats tires, brakes and went through 2 pairs of front struts. I finally had to install after market struts because the ones from the dealership would only last two years
Amsoil is in, old oil out. Seem to run a bit smoother, at low RPM, Redline and idle. Slightly quieter. I've decided I'll change it out at between 6k and 7k. I'll send a sample to Blackstone and one to oil analyzers (I have a free analysis from them) to see how it really holds up. On Thursday I head out to SoCal, I'll put it through 380 miles of hell. My last trip I averaged nearly 28 mpg... let's see if I can beat that
After driving 3 days on the new oil, I notice a definite difference. I'm getting smoother performance, both hwy and non hwy driving. Also MPG's have gone slightly up from 18.5 to 20.2 mpg...this is non freeway driving. It's not a night and day improvement, but still very noticeable. I'm not saying I'm going to go out and buy another case for my next oil change, just reporting on what my experience is. Wither someone thinks spending an extra $50 over a conventional synthetic is worth it is up to the individual
It's been almost a month since changing my oil to Amsoil XL, and I can report that the experience has been positive. Smooth performance, quieter operation, and slightly better mpg's. I got about 15 more miles on the tank (I usually fill at the quarter tank mark). I'll drain somewhere between 7k to 7,500 miles and send the sample in for analysis
It's now been over a month since changing out my oil for Amsoil XL, and I can officially say that it's given me overall better performance, smoother engine operation, does well in cold weather, and has slightly boosted my MPG's. I wanted to let a month pass just to make sure to eliminate the placebo effect. I want to make it clear it's not night and day, but it is a noticeable, positive performance change. I didn't gain 10 hp, I'm not taking on Hellcats and Mustang GT's (although I did show a guy in a modded Civic who the boss was ), but I am getting smoother driving, either while driving like a granny or going all out WOT. This is especially felt while driving on the hwy. Also my visits to the gas station have have extended by a few days. Of course the ultimate conclusion will come when I hit 5K, will I still have the same driving experience, and when I drain around 7500 miles, will the oil have held up to its promise (and cost).
Was it worth the price I paid? So far it has been, at least in my experience. The ultimate answer will come when the oil has reached its end of life. That may or may not happen as I just bought a PoleStar 2 (delivery in 2 to 3 weeks). I was going to give it to my son, but he is going off to college, I don't want an extra car sitting in our yard where mice have found the engine bay a perfect shelter, and my local Lexus dealership is offering me an insane amount of money. 2010's are selling right now on Carvana, Carmax and dealerships from anywhere from $20K to $27K...and I'm not talking about the IS350c, which is hitting the $30K's...
I wanted to let a month pass just to make sure to eliminate the placebo effect.
Hate to quibble, but waiting a month really does nothing to eliminate the placebo effect. You put in an oil that you thought might be better, and now it seems like it is.
If you want to eliminate the placebo effect, do something like this: have a third party flip a coin. If it comes up heads, he puts Amsoil in your engine. If it comes up tails, he puts the oil you usually use. Important thing is that you do not know which oil is in your car while making your evaluation. Ideally you repeat this test over multiple oil changes, and if you consistently report report better smoothness and performance when Amsoil is in your engine (even though you don't know which oil you are running) than when it is not, you'd be able to say that you've observed a benefit that clearly has nothing to do with the placebo effect.
Now that I say it, it does sound like I'm quibbling, but it's the reason that drug companies spend alll that money running blind (and double-blind) trials.
Hate to quibble, but waiting a month really does nothing to eliminate the placebo effect. You put in an oil that you thought might be better, and now it seems like it is.
If you want to eliminate the placebo effect, do something like this: have a third party flip a coin. If it comes up heads, he puts Amsoil in your engine. If it comes up tails, he puts the oil you usually use. Important thing is that you do not know which oil is in your car while making your evaluation. Ideally you repeat this test over multiple oil changes, and if you consistently report report better smoothness and performance when Amsoil is in your engine (even though you don't know which oil you are running) than when it is not, you'd be able to say that you've observed a benefit that clearly has nothing to do with the placebo effect.
Now that I say it, it does sound like I'm quibbling, but it's the reason that drug companies spend alll that money running blind (and double-blind) trials.
Oh, and good luck with the new Polestar!!
Ha ha you're probably right! Don't want to go through all that trouble though, as much as I like the Scientific method. That said, I've been driving since I was 15 and a half (now 54), so I have learned to pick up on subtle changes. And thanks, I know a lot of people on this forum are not exactly enthusiastic about EV's, but the sceptics will have to trust me that EV's are pretty amazing and not the monsters they have been told they are...
11-14-21, 11:24 AM
), but I am getting smoother driving, either while driving like a granny or going all out WOT. This is especially felt while driving on the hwy. Also my visits to the gas station have have extended by a few days. Of course the ultimate conclusion will come when I hit 5K, will I still have the same driving experience, and when I drain around 7500 miles, will the oil have held up to its promise (and cost).
