Troubleshooting no-sound condition on 2009 IS
#1
Driver School Candidate
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Troubleshooting no-sound condition on 2009 IS
My sister's IS had been exhibiting some intermittent no-sound symptoms recently, but she tells me that it hasn't worked at all for a number of weeks now. I looked under the cover where the amplifier lives, and, well, it doesn't look great:
IS Amplifier Compartment
I'm seeing lots of splices, and there's a ton of debris under the heatsink, which I assume got there thanks to the failing plastic vents that I keep hearing so much about. There seem to be quite a few forum threads that talk about this, but I'd like to make sure that we're approaching this as logically as possible before throwing $250+ at the problem.
Some folks have mentioned that the amplifier will shut down if it thinks that one of the speakers is shorted. Is that common? If so, is it possible to just test resistances on the harness with a multimeter? Assuming we're still getting power back there, and none of the speakers are shorted, (and that the previous owner's splicing job hasn't created any new problems) is 86280-53110 the correct (and most current) part number that will fit a 2009?
IS Amplifier Compartment
I'm seeing lots of splices, and there's a ton of debris under the heatsink, which I assume got there thanks to the failing plastic vents that I keep hearing so much about. There seem to be quite a few forum threads that talk about this, but I'd like to make sure that we're approaching this as logically as possible before throwing $250+ at the problem.
Some folks have mentioned that the amplifier will shut down if it thinks that one of the speakers is shorted. Is that common? If so, is it possible to just test resistances on the harness with a multimeter? Assuming we're still getting power back there, and none of the speakers are shorted, (and that the previous owner's splicing job hasn't created any new problems) is 86280-53110 the correct (and most current) part number that will fit a 2009?
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MrHarris (03-10-22)
#2
Lexus Test Driver
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My sister's IS had been exhibiting some intermittent no-sound symptoms recently, but she tells me that it hasn't worked at all for a number of weeks now. I looked under the cover where the amplifier lives, and, well, it doesn't look great:
IS Amplifier Compartment
I'm seeing lots of splices, and there's a ton of debris under the heatsink, which I assume got there thanks to the failing plastic vents that I keep hearing so much about. There seem to be quite a few forum threads that talk about this, but I'd like to make sure that we're approaching this as logically as possible before throwing $250+ at the problem.
Some folks have mentioned that the amplifier will shut down if it thinks that one of the speakers is shorted. Is that common? If so, is it possible to just test resistances on the harness with a multimeter? Assuming we're still getting power back there, and none of the speakers are shorted, (and that the previous owner's splicing job hasn't created any new problems) is 86280-53110 the correct (and most current) part number that will fit a 2009?
IS Amplifier Compartment
I'm seeing lots of splices, and there's a ton of debris under the heatsink, which I assume got there thanks to the failing plastic vents that I keep hearing so much about. There seem to be quite a few forum threads that talk about this, but I'd like to make sure that we're approaching this as logically as possible before throwing $250+ at the problem.
Some folks have mentioned that the amplifier will shut down if it thinks that one of the speakers is shorted. Is that common? If so, is it possible to just test resistances on the harness with a multimeter? Assuming we're still getting power back there, and none of the speakers are shorted, (and that the previous owner's splicing job hasn't created any new problems) is 86280-53110 the correct (and most current) part number that will fit a 2009?
You're gonna have to do some digging on that one and find out why the hackery took place.
More often than not, reverse polarity battery installs and that compartment flooding are the most common causes of no sound.
That looks like a lot of splices. Give each a tug and if it pulls apart, fix it.
After that I'd disconnect the battery, pull the amp and open it. See if water killed it. You have a DMM and know how to use it?
What does it look like under the hood? Are there wires up there? How about an amp, an EQ?
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I'm bracing for impact
You're gonna have to do some digging on that one and find out why the hackery took place.
More often than not, reverse polarity battery installs and that compartment flooding are the most common causes of no sound.
That looks like a lot of splices. Give each a tug and if it pulls apart, fix it.
After that I'd disconnect the battery, pull the amp and open it. See if water killed it. You have a DMM and know how to use it?
More often than not, reverse polarity battery installs and that compartment flooding are the most common causes of no sound.
That looks like a lot of splices. Give each a tug and if it pulls apart, fix it.
After that I'd disconnect the battery, pull the amp and open it. See if water killed it. You have a DMM and know how to use it?
I'll have to give it another look, but from what I remember, it looked pretty clean/stock under the hood. As far as I know, everything else is stock.
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