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07 IS250 Carbon Build Up cleaning

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Old 03-23-22, 07:38 PM
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BryanM
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Post 07 IS250 Carbon Build Up cleaning

Hi guys.

Have a 2007 IS250 that sits around 165k mi and was thinking of doing a carbon build up clean around 200k.
I saw this video that was pretty good but takes a lot of courage and knowledge to do. If you have time to watch the video linked below, please let me know what you think.
The guy basically soaked his pistons with chem dip for 10 hrs then vacuumed the solution the next day. He has a before and after photos of the pistons from his borescope and it was pretty impressive.
I just wanted to know other people's opinion on this.

Is it plausible for your ordinary joe or just get a walnut blasting service or an engine rebuild?

"
"
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Old 03-25-22, 02:37 AM
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MrHarris
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Hey I want to get this done too. I am leaning towards trying it myself…
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Old 03-25-22, 11:40 AM
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MikeFig82
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I think there is no wrong way of doing this. Whether it's chemical, or walnut blasting.

The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html
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Old 03-26-22, 09:24 AM
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BryanM
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Right? I am just anxious about the fact that you have to soak the pistons overnight and the thought of hydrolocking the pistons but that is what the borescope is for.
I just want to be 99% sure that the pistons will be okay even after vacuuming the pistons.
Old 03-26-22, 09:29 AM
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BryanM
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Originally Posted by MikeFig82
I think there is no wrong way of doing this. Whether it's chemical, or walnut blasting.

The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html

Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.

For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
Old 03-27-22, 05:28 AM
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ELexis
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Additional links to related subject of Carbon Buildup / cleaning;IS250 (3GR-FSE) Intake Valve Carbon Cleaning

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html

2006 is250 Carbon Buildup/Valve Cleaning

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html

Walnut blasting

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-blasting.html

How to remove most of the carbon build up on the Lexus IS 250, FULL guide, REAL results using Seafoam cleaner video


How to Seafoam a Lexus IS250 video

Old 03-28-22, 11:05 AM
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MikeFig82
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Originally Posted by BryanM
Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.

For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
How bad is the carbon build up on the pistons? Have you seen it with a bore scope? As for vacuuming it up not much else can be done. You need to remove all the fluid as possible.
Old 03-28-22, 04:15 PM
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BryanM
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Originally Posted by MikeFig82
How bad is the carbon build up on the pistons? Have you seen it with a bore scope? As for vacuuming it up not much else can be done. You need to remove all the fluid as possible.
Have not had the time to inspect it visually through a borescope but the car has 165k on it and showed signs of carbon build-up (slow acceleration, choking on gear 2 to 3 and sluggish response).
Old 03-28-22, 06:37 PM
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Subbing this thread.
Old 04-02-22, 09:28 AM
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GrizzlyMan
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I would install an oil catch can to minimize oil carbon buildup.



*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.




I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.


*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.



Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol




Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.

Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
Old 04-07-22, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GrizzlyMan
I would install an oil catch can to minimize oil carbon buildup.



*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.




I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.


*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.



Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol




Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.

Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
I do have one of these installed already prolly around 140k.
But like i said, looking to do the piston soak as linked in the video above when i hit 200k. Just doing homework of whats the best and sure way not to kill my engine. As per the valves, ill just have it walnut blasted due to its convenience compared to soaking and scraping them manually.

Will update and post photos or any detail for the benefit of the thread.
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Old 04-07-22, 04:10 PM
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2013FSport
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Originally Posted by BryanM
Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.

For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
I would not advise soaking the piston tops. Unless the engine was treated like a tractor engine idling most of its life and being lugged around pulling steep hills in 6th gear, it probably doesn't need it anyway. The main reason I say this is:
  • You're removing all the lubrication from the piston and cylinder.
  • The carbon loosened is now stuck between the piston and cylinder.
  • Running it without oil, with carbon will reduce its life more than leaving it alone.
Get the intake ports and valves clean, the rest can be helped with seafoam and heavy applications of your right foot.

JM2C
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Old 04-07-22, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
I would not advise soaking the piston tops. Unless the engine was treated like a tractor engine idling most of its life and being lugged around pulling steep hills in 6th gear, it probably doesn't need it anyway. The main reason I say this is:
  • You're removing all the lubrication from the piston and cylinder.
  • The carbon loosened is now stuck between the piston and cylinder.
  • Running it without oil, with carbon will reduce its life more than leaving it alone.
Get the intake ports and valves clean, the rest can be helped with seafoam and heavy applications of your right foot.

JM2C
First point answered one of the questions at the back of my head.
You cant run bare metal to bare metal at high velocities without friction welding it. In this case, the pistons to the cylinder.
The guy in the video, replaced spark plugs and engine oil as soon as he finished.
I honestly did not think about if the chemdrip, soaked overnight, penetrated other parts of the engine.

What would you recommend other than seafoam? Engine rebuild? If so, have you done it? By yourself or pro? How much? How long?
Old 04-07-22, 04:53 PM
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FWIW: 105,xxx miles IS-350 w tune, that sees some good pulls.
Piston #3....




The piston was up to close to get a full view of the top. One could argue it/they need cleaned. If so, it be a good candidate for seafoam over time, perhaps sprayed into the intake as a mist when the vacuum is low. i.e. engine is doing work vs idling.
Old 04-07-22, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanM
First point answered one of the questions at the back of my head.
You cant run bare metal to bare metal at high velocities without friction welding it. In this case, the pistons to the cylinder.
The guy in the video, replaced spark plugs and engine oil as soon as he finished.
I honestly did not think about if the chemdrip, soaked overnight, penetrated other parts of the engine.

What would you recommend other than seafoam? Engine rebuild? If so, have you done it? By yourself or pro? How much? How long?
Get a scan tool or load the OBD Fusion App with Lexus PID pack and watch the engine parameter KCLV, which is the engine knock correction. If in the low teens, your engine needs cleaning. If north of 20 to 25, do nothing as it's fine as is.

Just a FWI: piston/combustion chamber carbon build up creates potential for detonation. Detonation pulls back ignition timing that reduces performance and fuel economy.

^^ A lot like running cheap 87 octane fuel. lol
So, get some before and after data. If the engine hits >23 kclv, then its most likely fine. That said, it needs a clean MAF, Fresh plugs, good oil, clean air filter and all that jazz...

Let us know if you have question.
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