07 IS250 Carbon Build Up cleaning
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
07 IS250 Carbon Build Up cleaning
Hi guys.
Have a 2007 IS250 that sits around 165k mi and was thinking of doing a carbon build up clean around 200k.
I saw this video that was pretty good but takes a lot of courage and knowledge to do. If you have time to watch the video linked below, please let me know what you think.
The guy basically soaked his pistons with chem dip for 10 hrs then vacuumed the solution the next day. He has a before and after photos of the pistons from his borescope and it was pretty impressive.
I just wanted to know other people's opinion on this.
Is it plausible for your ordinary joe or just get a walnut blasting service or an engine rebuild?
"
"
Have a 2007 IS250 that sits around 165k mi and was thinking of doing a carbon build up clean around 200k.
I saw this video that was pretty good but takes a lot of courage and knowledge to do. If you have time to watch the video linked below, please let me know what you think.
The guy basically soaked his pistons with chem dip for 10 hrs then vacuumed the solution the next day. He has a before and after photos of the pistons from his borescope and it was pretty impressive.
I just wanted to know other people's opinion on this.
Is it plausible for your ordinary joe or just get a walnut blasting service or an engine rebuild?
"
The following users liked this post:
TheUser (03-24-22)
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BryanM (03-26-22)
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
I think there is no wrong way of doing this. Whether it's chemical, or walnut blasting.
The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html
The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html
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BryanM (03-26-22)
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Right? I am just anxious about the fact that you have to soak the pistons overnight and the thought of hydrolocking the pistons but that is what the borescope is for.
I just want to be 99% sure that the pistons will be okay even after vacuuming the pistons.
I just want to be 99% sure that the pistons will be okay even after vacuuming the pistons.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I think there is no wrong way of doing this. Whether it's chemical, or walnut blasting.
The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html
The end result would be the same. Probably the soak method would be the best since it's actually getting to the piston tops. The blasting or vacuum method would only hit the valves. In all it's how much time do you want to spend on the project.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lve-clean.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-valves-2.html
Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.
For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
#6
Additional links to related subject of Carbon Buildup / cleaning;IS250 (3GR-FSE) Intake Valve Carbon Cleaning
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html
2006 is250 Carbon Buildup/Valve Cleaning
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html
Walnut blasting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-blasting.html
How to remove most of the carbon build up on the Lexus IS 250, FULL guide, REAL results using Seafoam cleaner video
How to Seafoam a Lexus IS250 video
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html
2006 is250 Carbon Buildup/Valve Cleaning
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-cleaning.html
Walnut blasting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-blasting.html
How to remove most of the carbon build up on the Lexus IS 250, FULL guide, REAL results using Seafoam cleaner video
How to Seafoam a Lexus IS250 video
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.
For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Have not had the time to inspect it visually through a borescope but the car has 165k on it and showed signs of carbon build-up (slow acceleration, choking on gear 2 to 3 and sluggish response).
#9
Intermediate
Subbing this thread.
#10
I would install an oil catch can to minimize oil carbon buildup.
*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.
I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.
*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.
Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol
Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.
Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.
I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.
*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.
Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol
Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.
Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would install an oil catch can to minimize oil carbon buildup.
*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.
I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.
*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.
Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol
Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.
Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
*Buy 3/8 fuel line, much stronger, will not collapse under vacuum and resist cracking at high temperatures.
I modded mine with long screws and baffle plates I had from a custom rc airplane exhaust.
*It may look like the can touches the pulleys, but it does not, there is enough clearance.
Have had it on the car for almost nine months now and do notice the difference picking up oil, smoother idle. And no, it did not increase 40hp, lol
Installed the same universal occ to the suv, did the same baffle mod.
Just a reminder, if you live in a state that they do visual inspections, it will probably not pass inspection. It is not too difficult to remove, I would say is more of the hassle to take out and then put back.
But like i said, looking to do the piston soak as linked in the video above when i hit 200k. Just doing homework of whats the best and sure way not to kill my engine. As per the valves, ill just have it walnut blasted due to its convenience compared to soaking and scraping them manually.
Will update and post photos or any detail for the benefit of the thread.
The following users liked this post:
GrizzlyMan (04-07-22)
#12
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Or get them both? Walnut blasting the valves seems to be more effective than the soaking based on before and after shots.
For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
For the piston tops, other than a rebuild, seems like soaking is the only option that would yield significant results.
Do you happen to have an alternate option to dry out the pistons other than the 3/8" shop vacuum?
- You're removing all the lubrication from the piston and cylinder.
- The carbon loosened is now stuck between the piston and cylinder.
- Running it without oil, with carbon will reduce its life more than leaving it alone.
JM2C
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BryanM (04-07-22)
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would not advise soaking the piston tops. Unless the engine was treated like a tractor engine idling most of its life and being lugged around pulling steep hills in 6th gear, it probably doesn't need it anyway. The main reason I say this is:
JM2C
- You're removing all the lubrication from the piston and cylinder.
- The carbon loosened is now stuck between the piston and cylinder.
- Running it without oil, with carbon will reduce its life more than leaving it alone.
JM2C
You cant run bare metal to bare metal at high velocities without friction welding it. In this case, the pistons to the cylinder.
The guy in the video, replaced spark plugs and engine oil as soon as he finished.
I honestly did not think about if the chemdrip, soaked overnight, penetrated other parts of the engine.
What would you recommend other than seafoam? Engine rebuild? If so, have you done it? By yourself or pro? How much? How long?
#14
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
FWIW: 105,xxx miles IS-350 w tune, that sees some good pulls.
Piston #3....
The piston was up to close to get a full view of the top. One could argue it/they need cleaned. If so, it be a good candidate for seafoam over time, perhaps sprayed into the intake as a mist when the vacuum is low. i.e. engine is doing work vs idling.
Piston #3....
The piston was up to close to get a full view of the top. One could argue it/they need cleaned. If so, it be a good candidate for seafoam over time, perhaps sprayed into the intake as a mist when the vacuum is low. i.e. engine is doing work vs idling.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
First point answered one of the questions at the back of my head.
You cant run bare metal to bare metal at high velocities without friction welding it. In this case, the pistons to the cylinder.
The guy in the video, replaced spark plugs and engine oil as soon as he finished.
I honestly did not think about if the chemdrip, soaked overnight, penetrated other parts of the engine.
What would you recommend other than seafoam? Engine rebuild? If so, have you done it? By yourself or pro? How much? How long?
You cant run bare metal to bare metal at high velocities without friction welding it. In this case, the pistons to the cylinder.
The guy in the video, replaced spark plugs and engine oil as soon as he finished.
I honestly did not think about if the chemdrip, soaked overnight, penetrated other parts of the engine.
What would you recommend other than seafoam? Engine rebuild? If so, have you done it? By yourself or pro? How much? How long?
Just a FWI: piston/combustion chamber carbon build up creates potential for detonation. Detonation pulls back ignition timing that reduces performance and fuel economy.
^^ A lot like running cheap 87 octane fuel. lol
So, get some before and after data. If the engine hits >23 kclv, then its most likely fine. That said, it needs a clean MAF, Fresh plugs, good oil, clean air filter and all that jazz...
Let us know if you have question.
The following 2 users liked this post by 2013FSport:
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