IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Cranks but No Start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-17-22, 01:21 AM
  #1  
Sonicd
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
 
Sonicd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: KZN
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Unhappy Cranks but No Start

I put fuel in my car a few day ago, then car didnt want to start. I kept trying until it started and rove the car home with no issues.
The following day I started the car and checked fuses and relays to understand why the car did not want to start.
The next day I got hold of a OBD II, I was expecting a dying plug or coil to be the fault, but only got a REAR wheel Speed Sensor fault (Will deal with this when I get the Car started Again)

After checking for faults the car would not start, it cranks but does not start.

Back to the fuses, all good, to the relays, all good.

At this point I could not hear the fuel pump so I removed the pipe just before the HIgh Pressure Pump, attached a pipe to a bottle and attempted to start again. NO FUEL.

I removed the fuel pump from the tank and found this, the negative side of the pump was burnt!

I have 2 questions now,
Why did the negative side of the pump burn the connector and what do I need to check to ensure this doesnt happen again.
Is this safe to have a connector heat up and melt inside a fuel tank.

Please help.



Connector to Pump Burnt


Pump Connector Burnt

Pump Removed, connector burnt on Negative side
Old 06-17-22, 08:13 AM
  #2  
Ultra4
Intermediate
 
Ultra4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Colorado
Posts: 403
Received 106 Likes on 88 Posts
Default

First thing that comes to mind is that something got stuck in the motor itself (the fuel pump DC motor, not the engine) and the armature was stuck in just the right place to allow enough current to fry it.

Second is to check the continuity for the ground path, you may have corrosion adding too much resistance or something similar.

Third is the relay being defective...probably should go ahead and swap in a new FP relay, anyway.

Inasfar as electricity in the fuel goes...being a poly tank and connections helps isolate the only ways in and out of the tank for electricity, and I'm pretty sure all of the materials approved for fuel use only smolder, don't ignite, but I can be wrong there...making a buck is the only thing in life that matters, after all, and saving a trillionth of a cent per connector at the expense of blowing little Billy up in the back seat one time in a couple hundred thousand is a profit worth making...
The following users liked this post:
Sonicd (06-19-22)
Old 06-17-22, 01:20 PM
  #3  
2013FSport
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
 
2013FSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: OR
Posts: 6,608
Received 1,525 Likes on 1,269 Posts
Default

^^ Agree with Ultra.

Take a flash light and look in the tank for sediment. There threads on here with pump replacement but I'd want to see the filter and whats inside. With the filter off, you might try to backflush the pump, see if anything comes out. That said, it may have a checkvalve in the outlet that prevents it too.

GL. New pump, filter, wire harness.
The following users liked this post:
Sonicd (06-21-22)
Old 07-25-22, 04:26 AM
  #4  
Sonicd
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
 
Sonicd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: KZN
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Problem solved. According to a local Fuel Pump Specialist, it is a failing on Toyota, Lexus and Honda where the Negative terminal over heats as the fuel pump ages. Replace fuel pump and Fuel Pump harness.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
OHLexusFan
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
3
07-27-19 06:35 PM
JP83
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
2
07-08-16 02:54 AM
OG_SC300
Performance & Maintenance
8
11-16-11 06:03 AM
cardwielde
Performance & Maintenance
11
01-22-11 06:21 PM



Quick Reply: Cranks but No Start



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:54 PM.