IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Advice Needed ASAP

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Old 07-25-22 | 08:28 PM
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Default Advice Needed ASAP

So I've always loved the second gen is, and have been seriously considering getting one as my daily driver for school and other things. In my area the prices of the is350 have shot up a crazy amount, and although I can still afford it, it just doesn't make sense anymore for the amount of money people ask for. I've been looking around auction sites to see if there's any second gens with minimal damage that I could fix myself... and I ran across this one. I've attached the pictures below, its a 2009 is250 awd with a front-end collision on the drivers side. When I saw it in person, there didn't seem to be any frame damage, nor to any other important components (i.e. suspension). In the LAST two photos are where my concerns lie. Somehow there is damage on the roof and the collision also caused the metal within the wheel well to be dented inwards. The car fully runs and drives, no dash lights. Being offered for $4700 CAD with 101k km on it. It has a salvaged title, but if I purchase it I will be able to get it certified and switched into a rebuilt title.

Is this worth my time and money to try and fix?

The only damage the car sustained is included in the pictures, everywhere else around the car is clean.

In my area, a clean title car with the same specs is comparable at around $13000 CAD.



roof somehow sustained damage without a single crack on the glass

this is where its dented inwards
Old 07-25-22 | 08:58 PM
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My $.02usd: I still see the random "dunno what's wrong with it, mechanic quoted $infinity for a new gas cap tether, first $2000 cash tows it home" posts on fb marketplace, and that'd be my go-to, even if I had to fly in somewhere with my tools to swap something dumb out. Like an engine. Home Depot rents trucks for cheap, and you can fit a disassembled *GR engine in the trunk, just gotta eat the $250 for a 1k# truck crane and some lumber to pull the engine, and now I feel I'm letting my inner Freiburger show too much...you might be able to return the crane post-swap, though.

That said, if the work and cost involved on your end to get it back on the road doesn't intimidate you, and you really want to get into a 2IS for the long haul, this would likely be very doable by someone with moderate sheet metal/auto body skills. They don't need to be Chip Foose, but I'd want them to have a handful of auto body years under their belt, the wheel well looks like some basic hammer work and the roof looks like it can be pulled with a stud welder...and I'd likely want to save up for them to do a whole-body spray, color sand, and some extra clear so passers-by do that "dang..is that a factory color?" double-take. But that's me.
Old 07-25-22 | 09:00 PM
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I would put a code reader to see if it has any stored codes. Looks like a good deal, but it’s a risk getting a salvaged vehicle and being patient putting it back together. Not to say a salvage title diminishes the resale value.
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Old 07-25-22 | 09:16 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Ultra4
My $.02usd: I still see the random "dunno what's wrong with it, mechanic quoted $infinity for a new gas cap tether, first $2000 cash tows it home" posts on fb marketplace, and that'd be my go-to, even if I had to fly in somewhere with my tools to swap something dumb out. Like an engine. Home Depot rents trucks for cheap, and you can fit a disassembled *GR engine in the trunk, just gotta eat the $250 for a 1k# truck crane and some lumber to pull the engine, and now I feel I'm letting my inner Freiburger show too much...you might be able to return the crane post-swap, though.

That said, if the work and cost involved on your end to get it back on the road doesn't intimidate you, and you really want to get into a 2IS for the long haul, this would likely be very doable by someone with moderate sheet metal/auto body skills. They don't need to be Chip Foose, but I'd want them to have a handful of auto body years under their belt, the wheel well looks like some basic hammer work and the roof looks like it can be pulled with a stud welder...and I'd likely want to save up for them to do a whole-body spray, color sand, and some extra clear so passers-by do that "dang..is that a factory color?" double-take. But that's me.
Do you think that the dented wheel well metal could've caused any shifts in the frame or surrounding damage? I looked around and couldn't see anything. Keep in mind, my knowledge is not very extensive on car repair, but that's kind of the whole point of getting this... I'm trying to learn. I just don't want to buy it if it's way over my head.
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Old 07-26-22 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by stafy
Do you think that the dented wheel well metal could've caused any shifts in the frame or surrounding damage? I looked around and couldn't see anything. Keep in mind, my knowledge is not very extensive on car repair, but that's kind of the whole point of getting this... I'm trying to learn. I just don't want to buy it if it's way over my head.
Down here driving a salvage yard car is not an option, much less starting it, but did you drive it? Is there an option to get it in the air and look it over?

The paintless dent removal guys may be able to do the roof. Write them and send pictures. The side is that area has been known to buckle nearer the sun roof corner if the vehicle is stressed.

If that were 350, I'd say do it. Regardless, I'd guess you come out ahead.

​​​​​​​Verify if the hood gap is straight on the other side, if so, a diagonal x measurement from equal fixed points over the engine to the other fender will give you some sense of how well a new fender will hang. Make sense?
Old 07-26-22 | 10:55 AM
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Not worth it. If it's a 350, maybe, but consider all the repairs needed (not to mention time), once you are all said and done with all the fixing, the price will be the same (if not higher) than just buying no-repair needed car.
Old 07-26-22 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by stafy
Do you think that the dented wheel well metal could've caused any shifts in the frame or surrounding damage? I looked around and couldn't see anything. Keep in mind, my knowledge is not very extensive on car repair, but that's kind of the whole point of getting this... I'm trying to learn. I just don't want to buy it if it's way over my head.
Can't tell from the pic. Compare it to the other side, and look for areas that're bent into the "frame" area formed by sandwiching panels together, if you have a crease or significant damage in those multi-layer weld areas, you have issues, else it's just a matter of making the metal the shape it was before.
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