2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

That clear plastic strip is loaded with what's called Fuseable Links. Many are very hard to see the condition of and may force you to remove the clear cover.

The fuse shape and design is the same as an ATC fuse looking like a Z where the center section melts if too much current is drawn.

All the fuses you can't find are in that section. #28-60A is suspect.

Engine Comp. #11, a 7.5A (from my 2013 manual) labeled 'A/C COMP'

Drivers side instrument panel, fuse
#2 A/C 7.5A, Air conditioning system'.
​#12 ECU-iG LH 10A
#18 LH-IG 10A

Passenger side front cabin.
#9 ACC
#17 ECU-IG RH

koolina13

ELexis , Today 04:05 PM
Intermediate
Have you tried switchingRelay 1 (R1) (Air conditioner compressor clutch (A/C COMP). with Relay 2 (R2) (Electric cooling fan (FAN NO.1), than switch them back).. They relays should just pull out however, may need assistance of pliers to gently remove if stubborn.


I’ll try this first thing in the morning. Just confirming, RELAY 1 (R1) and RELAY2 (R2) are in fuse box #2 driver side, correct? I’ll let you know how this goes, thanks!

koolina13

I haven’t checked fuses #12 & #18 on driver side panel yet, I’ll do that first thing in the morning.

I’ve already checked fuses #9 & #17 on passenger side, they were fine. Just changed out fuse #10 on passenger side. After the change the AC LED back panel lit up but no icons or anything. In the morning, I’ll try switching relays R1 & R2 in engine compartment to see if one is bad. At this point I’ll try anything, I’ll let you know tomorrow, thanks, much appreciated.

koolina13

Didn’t have time this morning to switch relay R1& R2 however, I did manage to check fuse #10, 12 & 18 on driver side panel. Fuses #10 & #18 looked like new however, fuse #12, although the filament was intact, the aluminum prongs were dark brown and looked worn. I wiped the ends of the 10A fuse and put it back in because I didn’t have a spare 10A fuse on hand. Started the car to leave and voila! The AC light comes on, mode showed on LED panel and AC fired up. Turned car off and restarted but AC light failed to come back on and AC and no buttons work. I’m going to run by Autozone and get an assortment of the mini low rise fuses and see if by changing out that #12 driver side fuse and a few others we’ll see if it changes anything. The AC came on briefly, I’m pretty certain power is there but I’m thinking it may possibly be a bad relay as well. After I get the fuses I’ll switch the two relays and hopefully that works, will let you know. Thanks!

Bavarian39

I JUST went through this same problem with my IS, the radio and climate control screens would not work along with any of the buttons, but the radio still played if you adjust the volume. All of my fuses and relays were fine, so instead of going to the dealership and blowing hundreds of dollars on diagnostics, I went on eBay and purchased a used climate/radio combo for $150. After I swapped it in, everything started working again as normal.
If you have a friend or family member that is willing to let you swap their unit into your car then I highly recommend it. I’m not sure if you need the entire radio and climate controls together but since my eBay listing was selling them both in one unit I decided to swap everything at once. Process took less than an hour total.

koolina13

Wow! That may be what I’ll have to end up doing. I have couple of fuses that look sketchy to replace and of course I’ll check my relays. Today after wiping the tips of fuse #12/ driver side, the AC briefly came on so tomorrow should let me know if I have to go with the climate/ radio combo. How difficult was it to swap out the climate radio unit?

Bavarian39

The swap itself was fairly easy, like I said it took maybe an hour to do the entire swap. Here is the video the I watched to learn the process.
And just as an FYI, if the used unit comes with buttons that are scratched out and faded, you can swap the front cover including all the buttons from your current radio to your new one, just held in place with screws and clips. That's what I ended up doing on mine.

koolina13

Thanks! I previously saw this video, it didn’t seem like the swap was too difficult. I’ll go through this fuse process/ relay thing and if all fails, this will be the next step, I’ll let you know. Your situation sounds a lot like mine so I’ll start checking EBay to get a head start if I need to go that route, thanks again!

ELexis

Bavaria39, believe it may be just the Climate Control Module that is defective and needs replacing?

(2007 Lexus ES 350 module shown)

koolina13

I hope it is just the control panel, much cheaper on EBay, will keep you updated, thanks!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Thats interesting. Is this car near the ocean, high humidity or salty winter roads? Are more of the fuses tarnished brown?

If so, some fine scotchbrite and very thin file may be needed to clean contacts. When done, blow clean with electrical contact cleaner and apply dialectrict grease to the fuse blades before installing. Or at minimum, replace the fuses. And use cleaner and dielectric grease on new fuses.

Keep in mind that some of these systems have their own start up shut down sequence and randomly pulling fuses could create some unwanted behavior. I'd suggest battery disconnect for multiple fuse pulls. JM2C

koolina13

Don’t live near the ocean but it gets humid sometimes, more tropical than humid. Most of the fuses I’ve checked are visually good Howe, there are at least two with that brownish color on the fuse blades. I plan on changing any that appear suspect. I haven’t gotten to switching the R1 & R2 relays in engine compartment fuse box yet, I intend to do that in the morning. Good suggestion on the multiple fuse pulls and disconnecting the battery. I’ll let you know how it comes out. If all else fails I’ve got a pretty good mechanic who won’t cost me much at all to diagnose. If it’s a control panel AC unit I’ll head over to EBay to see if I can pick up a decent used one, they’re not too expensive. Thanks for the input, keeping fingers crossed…

koolina13

My intention today was to switch Relay1 & Relay2 in engine compartment to try resolving the AC not working issue. Decided to start engine and the AC light came on. The LED display lit up, mode control, fan etc. it all worked. Turned on AUTO button, AC system worked perfectly all system buttons worked. The radio, CD, AUX functions always worked even when the AC system was inoperable however, radio channels, CD track listings would not show those functions on the LED screen for the audio system, just the AUX function showed on that screen. I turned off the AC & the car, waited 4-5 minutes then turned the car back on, the AC light came back on and everything worked.
I now know the AC system works, I’ve checked all relevant fuses however, didn’t switch the two relays in the fuse box under the hood. If the system works intermittently like this, is it a likelihood the control panel is bad or I have a short somewhere? If it’s not a fuse or relay that may be the likely culprit. Tomorrow I’ll see if the AC comes on, if so it’ll be time to turn the car over to my mechanic. At this point I just want to make sure the AC works when I need it. Did I miss anything else to check?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

It seems to me a time to recount everything that was touched, and widdle it down to the most likely suspect.

In all of this, where is the car stored and did temperature play a role? If no, it really seems like something you did. Taking that a step further, panels not powering up appears to point to *potentially the fuses you pulled and put back. Did you ever end up disconcerting the battery?

These cars have a CAN bus power module that controls what gets powered down when, and for how long. It's part of minimizing parasitic loss from the battery as the vehicle sits unused.

As I know it, the 'power source control ECU' shuts sub-systems down in three steps, each about 14 days apart. i.e. aside from the obvious items that turn off with the key that is. An example is the infotainment system takes so long to boot, I think it shuts down after 28 days. While the immobilizer and door lock transponders stay idle for much longer. Hence me, suggesting disconnecting the battery if pulling too many fuses as I'm guessing this could screw stuff up at some point.

Retrace your steps and see what makes sense. Hopefully you fixed it.

koolina13

Just read your post on my way out. Went to my car turned on engine, AC light came on so I hit AUTO button and system came on. Went the store, after leaving and getting back in car I turned on the car, AC light came on so I pressed AUTO button, no response from any buttons at all, completely not working. I thought about what you said regarding the ECU shutting down sub systems but now I’m thinking maybe disconnecting the battery would be the next option. Would you just disconnect the negative terminal? How long before you reconnect it and will this affect any other of my systems? Thanks for the input.