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although you would guess the first thing to fix/address is solenoid D, @shlomie11 says he swapped out solenoid SLT and SLU, as well as replaced the TCM wiring
SLU part number = 35280-30050
SLT part number = 35290-34010
when I first called the dealership and told them my p2714 code they said I need part 35280-30050 (SLU).
they did not mention the need for SLT part number but they did confirm the correct part number is 35290-34010
Shlomie11 went to the dealership and they said he needed a new tranny. He said no way and did it himself and last updated saying everything is brand new even after 12k miles. Although he hasnt updated again in years.
@lexus-is2 says he fixed the problem by taking it to the dealership and they ran Techstream ECT and did resistance testing on the solenoids and swapped out the faulty one with a bad reading. He then updated 60k miles later saying the code popped up again, p2714, but has not updated in regards to how that issue was resolved the second time but is still an active user.
Unfortunately, @lexus-is2 doesn’t not recall which solenoids were faulty and changed on either happenstance.
what I’ve done: besides research ten hours - I reached out to a master mechanic at Toyota who is my brothers friend. He told me that I basically need a new transmission and swapping the solenoids will only “buy me time.” **** him.
I believe in the due diligence of the people on this forum and I believe I will be able to fix it with y’all’s help.
I need to open the valve body and take ohm measurements on each solenoid. Once I open up the valve body I am going to swap out SLT and SLU no matter what. I am going to order those parts so that when the valve body is opened I swap them out then and there. My only lack of preparation would be if there is an additional solenoid that has a bad resistance reading.
is this a good plan of attack? I am a hobbyist with well above average car experience (in general - below average on this forums users) but very little in transmissions.
I hope I can get the attention and help of @lexus-is2 since he is an active user and also get help from the rest of this community. I hope this post serves as a master thread on how to fix p2714 once and for all. It’s been really hard finding anything concrete even after all this research.
thank you all for reading and for any input you can provide!
attached are important screen shots I took of the users experience and success.
@lexus-is2 post from 2014 6 years and 60k miles later same p2714 pops up again Shlomie11’s solution to p2714
I find it very odd that the dealership wanted to diagnose my p2714 with a SLU solenoid when it is an SLT solenoid. Shlomie was right. But it’s only $100 on eBay so if I’m going to open up the valve body anyways I’ll spend the extra $100 on piece of mind. The dealership wanted over $250 for each for $500 + total. eBay is under $200 for OEM Toyota parts.
also
also, my post was incorrect about addressing solenoid d. Solenoid D = SLT
really irks me how the dealership misdiagnosed this! And said I need an SLU solenoid.
You need to test them for function too. Do they seal, do they redirect flow, is the current as specified (ohm and voltage test).
I highly recommend you remove all components on the line pressure side, and reverse flow them to clean out any debris stuck in them. Kerosene is good, just limit the time the o-rings are exposed.
What I don't know and have looked up is how does the trans know the line pressure is low? It either A) has a pressure switch that needs checked, or B) sees that several gears are slipping, thus determining line pressure is low.
If B is true, the fluid could be burned and the transmission is toast.
Several have used a 9VDC battery and alligator clips to test with. I'd suggest the same.
Also, a pressure leak could be in play, and all valves are working correctly. Checking line pressure would be a good first step before tear down.
Remember, these valves are not transmitting data, rather, they are slaves and were told what to do. Other checks take place that point fingers at the last request, and if that last request was not carried out, you get an error code that may or MAY NOT relate to the last command given. Hence some people fixing a problem via parts swap and others swapping a whole trans.
Also, a pressure leak could be in play, and all valves are working correctly. Checking line pressure would be a good first step before tear down.
Remember, these valves are not transmitting data, rather, they are slaves and were told what to do. Other checks take place that point fingers at the last request, and if that last request was not carried out, you get an error code that may or MAY NOT relate to the last command given. Hence some people fixing a problem via parts swap and others swapping a whole trans.
Solenoid errors are only part of the story.
beautiful advice. I will do everything you said. You’re the man! I really appreciate the input
beautiful advice. I will do everything you said. You’re the man! I really appreciate the input
Do a search of other posts of mine on the topic of transmission repairs.
I've gone into some detail at times regarding fact and fiction.
#2IS Maintenance
#2IS Transmission
#2IS Service
Also, keep in mind there are a couple of service kits for the valve body to fix line pressure issues if it's not caused by the pump or solenoids, or an internal leak. Trans-go kits are the first that came to mind but there are others.
Also search the web for Tundra A760H *.pdf
There is some Toyota related info of interest that might be applicable to your A960E trans. But do a search for it too.
Look here and scroll down to the Tech Resources section. https://www.sonnax.com/units/25-a960e
There are at least 3 to 4 articles worthy of reading there!
Pray that the problem is simply a few solenoids replacement. I would recommend you vet out the solenoid problem before doing anything else. It could be more than just faulty solenoid that cause this problem, but no harm done trying simple solenoid check first. The community have some brave knowledgeable souls that can help if solenoid is not the problem.
Everything ran great for 25K miles since I replaced the solenoid. Then, three months ago (June 2022), my car read up code P2714 and P0756. It hard shift from 3-5 gear skipping 4th. I did the same process of checking the faulty solenoid and replace the faulty solenoid. After replacing the bad solenoid everything is running fine now. The bad solenoid was a different solenoid than the one I had replaced in 2019. I've been draining and filling my transmission fluid along with oil change every 5K miles since my first time having transmission problem in 2019. So, the transmission fluid is good when one of the solenoid went bad few months ago. I am expecting more solenoids will give up and needing replacement going forward. My car is 197K miles now, it's just only a teen bit more used up than yours.
Until the day fixing cost more than its value, I'll rock her gently until she breaks.
Do a search of other posts of mine on the topic of transmission repairs.
I've gone into some detail at times regarding fact and fiction.
.
I've theorized changing the Transmission fluid with a simple drain and fill every 30k miles helps prevent selenoid failure and wondering your thought on this.
You seem knowledgable and wondering your ideas.
[Q. My car is 197K miles now, it's just only a teen bit more used up than yours.
Until the day fixing cost more than its value, I'll rock her gently until she breaks. [/QUOTE]
I plan on the same thing. It’s such a good looking and reliable car…. Until now.
I have ordered the two solenoids mentioned above and will get them in 3 weeks. Like I said I am new to transmission issues and I’m getting a little scared after @2013FSport advice. It is way beyond my scope. But all it takes is some careful planning and research and YouTube!
I've theorized changing the Transmission fluid with a simple drain and fill every 30k miles helps prevent selenoid failure and wondering your thought on this.
You seem knowledgable and wondering your ideas.
I'm on this same plan. Amsoil 2X gallons. The thing is, rarely do solenoids fail. They are essentially voice coils. An electromagnetic. It moves a plunger acting on an orifice allowing fluid to pass. They have a screen. If it plugs, no oil passes. That's why I say to test them electrically, test them physically, and backflush them, as chances are they work. The problem is, debris getting stuck in this valve set as it always has fluid going through it as it is regulating pressure.
Originally Posted by CoolCarBro
I plan on the same thing. It’s such a good looking and reliable car…. Until now.
I have ordered the two solenoids mentioned above and will get them in 3 weeks. Like I said I am new to transmission issues and I’m getting a little scared after @2013FSport
this is a superb video and he makes it look so easy! But all the stuff @2013FSport is mentioning is horrifying! Lol
but thank you for sharing your thread. That is very helpful!
hope your car makes it to 300k! Before another code pops up
If I told you I used to rebuild transmissions, well, I have had my hands in the cookie jar.
The thing is, there can be many reasons for low line pressure. Hence the first thing I would check is the actual pressure. If the pressure is fine then the sensor went bad and essentially nothing is wrong.
You need to know if there is a sensor at fault, check the pressure, and see how much crap is in the pan. Then you know more what you're looking for vs shotgun parts replacement aproach.
So after driving another 600 plus miles while waiting for the parts to ship. I got two new codes. P2757 and po894.
any help on what new pets I need to order? According to the YouTube video I shared earlier I need part 35290-34010 to address p2757. Going to update once I find more I formation and also what I need to address p0894
I'm on this same plan. Amsoil 2X gallons. The thing is, rarely do solenoids fail. They are essentially voice coils. An electromagnetic. It moves a plunger acting on an orifice allowing fluid to pass. They have a screen. If it plugs, no oil passes. That's why I say to test them electrically, test them physically, and backflush them, as chances are they work. The problem is, debris getting stuck in this valve set as it always has fluid going through it as it is regulating pressure.
If I told you I used to rebuild transmissions, well, I have had my hands in the cookie jar.
The thing is, there can be many reasons for low line pressure. Hence the first thing I would check is the actual pressure. If the pressure is fine then the sensor went bad and essentially nothing is wrong.
You need to know if there is a sensor at fault, check the pressure, and see how much crap is in the pan. Then you know more what you're looking for vs shotgun parts replacement aproach.
I agree with you. I am doing the shotgun approach. But I’m ok with losing $100 for a OEM Solenoid from eBay since I need to open this valve body up. I am likely to hire a professional since you scared the **** out of me with all this back flow testing and pressure checking. Idk. But $100 solenoid is not bad if I’m going to open this up or pay someone to do it. The labor and everything is going to cost way more if I have to do it twice. So i want to just do it all at once. Am I stupid?
I swapped out the solenoids. BUT , 2 out of the 20 threads that connect the valve body to the transmission gasket are stripped. What the heck do I do?!
09-08-22 | 02:05 PM
P2714 - VSC Code - 10+ hours research DIY
