IS250 tensioner pulley vibrating and rattling
#16
Lead Lap
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-question.html
#17
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Thread Starter
Well, I did see this. I'm not sure if you've already read it. See first post link.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-question.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-question.html
#20
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
@amts When you had the belt off did you verify the alternator clutch slips one way and locks the other? Even if it were locked solid and does not slip, its 99% certain not the cause of the idler dancing.
How steady does the engine idle? If you can balance a quarter on it while idling, likely not the engines health. i.e. carbon buildup, worn plugs, dirty MAF, or uneven cylinder compression.
Next look at the cranks drive pulley. Does it have runout? If so this would directly cause the tensioner to move. Because it comes and goes and can be load dependant, I place money on engine smoothness. Does the tach sit rock steady? If not, start there.
How steady does the engine idle? If you can balance a quarter on it while idling, likely not the engines health. i.e. carbon buildup, worn plugs, dirty MAF, or uneven cylinder compression.
Next look at the cranks drive pulley. Does it have runout? If so this would directly cause the tensioner to move. Because it comes and goes and can be load dependant, I place money on engine smoothness. Does the tach sit rock steady? If not, start there.
#21
Rookie
Thread Starter
@amts When you had the belt off did you verify the alternator clutch slips one way and locks the other? Even if it were locked solid and does not slip, its 99% certain not the cause of the idler dancing.
How steady does the engine idle? If you can balance a quarter on it while idling, likely not the engines health. i.e. carbon buildup, worn plugs, dirty MAF, or uneven cylinder compression.
Next look at the cranks drive pulley. Does it have runout? If so this would directly cause the tensioner to move. Because it comes and goes and can be load dependant, I place money on engine smoothness. Does the tach sit rock steady? If not, start there.
Next look at the cranks drive pulley. Does it have runout? If so this would directly cause the tensioner to move. Because it comes and goes and can be load dependant, I place money on engine smoothness. Does the tach sit rock steady? If not, start there.
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chuyrobles (10-20-23)
#22
Rookie
Thread Starter
Just an update.
Lost power steering after Christmas and putting a voltmeter across the battery, it wasn't getting charged and voltage dropping.
Due to the Christmas/New Year festive season, a lot of the suppliers were shut. I was going to order a reconditioned alternator as it was going to be the cheapest fix.
Today, I took off the alternator in preparation for the new alternator which I was going to order this coming Monday. I tested the pulley again and it was free spinning in both directions. Since the alternator was out of the car and I already had a genuine pulley, I replaced it.
It was really easy to do with the alternator off and using an impact wrench. As I didn't have a 17mm hex, I improvised using an M10 coupler as shown below.
Fitted everything back and all is well again.
As for the chattering noise from the tensioner, there was none. However I've only been able to let the car idle and rev up to 2500rpm for the charging test. Will see how it goes after driving it around.
I used this YouTube video as a guide to removing the alternator.
I didn't have to remove the ECU or radiator fan. Just the harness above the engine and a plastic shroud above the pulleys. After removing the shroud, I removed one of the studs with a torx socket for more clearance to get the alternator out.
Due to the alternator not charging, it also took the battery out. Replacing the battery was much harder than it should be. The battery clamps just didn't want to cooperate. Overall, it took 2 hours including battery replacement. Vehicle is RHD as I'm in Australia. Some of my experience may vary to the LHD 2IS. Hope this helps someone.
Lost power steering after Christmas and putting a voltmeter across the battery, it wasn't getting charged and voltage dropping.
Due to the Christmas/New Year festive season, a lot of the suppliers were shut. I was going to order a reconditioned alternator as it was going to be the cheapest fix.
Today, I took off the alternator in preparation for the new alternator which I was going to order this coming Monday. I tested the pulley again and it was free spinning in both directions. Since the alternator was out of the car and I already had a genuine pulley, I replaced it.
It was really easy to do with the alternator off and using an impact wrench. As I didn't have a 17mm hex, I improvised using an M10 coupler as shown below.
Fitted everything back and all is well again.
As for the chattering noise from the tensioner, there was none. However I've only been able to let the car idle and rev up to 2500rpm for the charging test. Will see how it goes after driving it around.
I used this YouTube video as a guide to removing the alternator.
I didn't have to remove the ECU or radiator fan. Just the harness above the engine and a plastic shroud above the pulleys. After removing the shroud, I removed one of the studs with a torx socket for more clearance to get the alternator out.
Due to the alternator not charging, it also took the battery out. Replacing the battery was much harder than it should be. The battery clamps just didn't want to cooperate. Overall, it took 2 hours including battery replacement. Vehicle is RHD as I'm in Australia. Some of my experience may vary to the LHD 2IS. Hope this helps someone.
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