evgyo

I have a 150k mile 08 and I'm burning about a quart every 1000 miles. From what I've seen, it's somewhat common for the 2GR as it gets older. I've replaced the PCV valve and going to replace the valve cover gasket soon, it's only slightly leaking from one side of the engine. Everytime I give it high revs, I can only relate the smell to burning oil, or just something burning (not sure if it's the cats or not as I know they're not in the best condition). Question is should I go with thicker oil? I'm currently using 5W-30 Full Synethetic Mobil-1 and a friend of mine recommended to go higher with 5W-40 possibly. I've read on a couple of forum posts that it should be okay as the engine tolerances open up after such high miles but I wanted to know if there are any things I should look out and what oil works best before doing this.

evgyo

bumping post

chuyrobles

I agree, 5/40 will not hurt your engine. The oil will be thicker in warmer weather while providing the same cold weather protection. In summer months, you can try 10/30 and/or 10/40. Also, to stretch out the # of times to add makeup oil, consider overfilling by half a quart.

benztech82

Well, looks like older IS350 have this issue, so does mine. Yesterday I realized that mine burns 1L per 1000km which is huge. Based on my research this is due to carboned up oil passages behind oil scraping rings? or something like that but there is a cost-effective solution which helps with various results. It either stops consumption completely or makes it tolerable/reasonable. I have bought what my mechanic buddies recommended and what I found on various 2gr-fse forums IS, GS etc. Thats what I got but I haven't had a chance to use it just yet. I hope to get to it next week.

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

Stick to the recommended oil weight, you're better off using a high mileage 5w30 oil (M1 High Mileage, Pennzoil High Mileage, etc) as it swells the seals a little bit. Most cars tend to burn oil when they get older/more mileage anyways, it's perfectly normal.

I would also address the things you mentioned, like the valve cover gasket. Inspect it for any other oil leaks as well.

evgyo

Had it looked at by a shop for oil leaks via dye and nothing, haven't seen any leaks myself either. Currently using M1 High Mileage, used M1 Extended Performance before and it burned around the same. How does a thicker oil swell the seals, could you explain that? I will replace the valve cover gasket somewhat soon but if nothing changes should I be concerned about piston rings?

chuyrobles

Thicker oil does not swell seals. The additives in high mileage formulated oils do that. But I suspect worn rings in your case. A compression check can help confirm worn out rings. Have you noticed smoke out the tail pipe after warm up? How about smoke at startup after the car has sat two or more days? That would indicate worn valve stem guides.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

"Thicker oil" or more appropriately, oil with higher viscosity is not an approved method of oil control. It's more of an old wives tale that never helped old or newer engine.

Try the product listed up there or a couple of doses of Yamaha Ring Free. Follow the directions listed and be sure to change the oil after using either product as the oil will be full of abrasive carbon deposits.

evgyo

Took videos of cold starts and all but no smoke other than condensation

benztech82

I have an update on my 2006 i350 oil consumption. So that BG additive worked but only somewhat. It's still burning oil but not at the same crazy rate. I added 0.5L per 2000km.
I will try to decarbonize valves too next oil change with some crc valve cleaner.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Excellent news and good follow up. Can you detail before and after consumption rates? This would give at least one product some facts vs us armchair mechanics.

I have seen the Yamaha Ring product work on two high reving motorcycle engines and one used up Nissan I4 but I've never used it on my own equipment.

benztech82

I corrected the level today and maybe sat I will do the valve decarbonization. Hopefully that will make it run smoother and lower consumption more. I will update once I get more results.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

I would aslo try a 1/2 to a quart of Tranny Fluid in the oil a few times. If there is no confirmed oil leak it's likely blow by of the scraping Rings. The Tranny fluid can clean this some and may improve it. The 2GR is not normally a Oil burner. Putting Dye in and checking for a day or 2 may not show up. It could be only showing up at higher RPM pressures like driving. Just because "A Shop" says they found nothing code word = (NPF), does mean it's not a leak. I'm sure sure your Valve Cover Gaskets are you main problem here.

My 2 guesses would be, Valve cover gaskets, and there was a Oil pressure sending unit that had problems on some of the 2GR motors thats a reseal and new sending unit fix.

Are you seeing smoke from the tail pipes in the morning after sitting on initial cold start up? Still do the Intake Decarb. It works. Thicker Oil is a waste of time, and a Internet inaccuracy. The fact that you are smelling oil burn really leads me to it's classic results that those valve cover gaskets are leaking down oil to burn.

benztech82

valve cover gaskets are not leaking, and front cover is dry too. no active leak on the driveway, so I doubt that what causing oil to disappear (in my case that is). I can definitely see black smoke under heavy acceleration.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Black smoke is likely soot being pushed through from increased velocity (higher RPM's) or for those with a tune, running rich.
That said, these do dip into the 12's (AFR) and can make some black smoke when opened up but mostly its soot in the pipes.