View Poll Results: Which Motor Oil Do You Prefer
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll
Which 0W-20 Synthetic Oil Does Everyone Use?
07-29-24, 11:58 AM
#31
Car still has NO CEL lights on the dash. Still driveable and will continue to drive a bit conservatively to minimize oil consumption. As per Lexus manual, my oil consumption is still within factory spec LOL.
Lesson learned - these engines are quite strong and can handle a lot of abuse if taken care of. When I buy a used engine, I will definitely use different oil (PuP, Valvoline, Amsoil) that provide better protection.
The following users liked this post:
NYIS300awdFS (07-29-24)
07-30-24, 08:41 AM
#32
When I had Lexuses that called for 0W-20, I used Amazon brand or Walmart Supertech. They did a great job and performed admirably against top oils in Project Farm's tests. I would change every 3,000 miles.
The following users liked this post:
nitroracer (07-31-24)
07-30-24, 12:47 PM
#33
Project Farm oil tests arent the best. Oil analysis would be the best report of an oil. Changing it every 3 or 5k miles you probably dont need to bother testing the oil though.
07-30-24, 01:02 PM
#34
Lexus Fanatic
The following users liked this post:
nitroracer (07-31-24)
07-30-24, 01:14 PM
#35
So you are saying pouring oil into beekers and freezing it or boiling in a coffee pot test is better? Idk I rather have an oil analysis than visual oil race contests.
07-30-24, 01:28 PM
#36
Lexus Fanatic
Do you really expect to use several different oils, send samples to a lab and choose based on that? Testing 101 says this method is not valid.
The following users liked this post:
nitroracer (07-31-24)
07-30-24, 01:45 PM
#37
drives cars
Folks, let's stay on topic. This thread is about 3IS 0W-20 (or, maybe 5W-30) oils, not about the manner in which Project Farm or anyone else tests their oils.
Thank you.
Thank you.
The following 3 users liked this post by arentz07:
07-31-24, 04:36 PM
#38
Of 0w-20 I currently use M1. I won't use Amsoil, it's overpriced and mostly hype. If anything, I'm switching to Liquimoly. Propose we expand the survey to include more than 3 options.
The following 2 users liked this post by nitroracer:
jgscott (08-01-24),
NYIS300awdFS (08-01-24)
08-01-24, 07:52 AM
#39
PuP. I got it with 32K. Has 38K now. Only done one change so far as I have purchased second hand.
The scoring shown above does have me a smidge concerned though as I believe that poster also purchased his second hand and you cant really tell how an owner . I used PP in my Fusion (Turbo; bought with 6 miles) and at 130K; no burning. Transmission was uber weak...but engine was solid. 5K changes
The scoring shown above does have me a smidge concerned though as I believe that poster also purchased his second hand and you cant really tell how an owner . I used PP in my Fusion (Turbo; bought with 6 miles) and at 130K; no burning. Transmission was uber weak...but engine was solid. 5K changes
08-01-24, 05:02 PM
#40
I have a '14 IS 250. For those not in-the-know, the 250 engines are direct injection only...no D4S. Cars that only use DI are well known for intake valve carbon issues, as well as fuel dilution, and piston/ring carbon issues.
I typically use Redline oils when I can get them, but after watching Lake Speed Jr's (The Motor Oil Geek) video on the Valvoline Restore and Protect, I thought I would like to give it a try. Well, it's not on the shelf here in Kanada yet, but my local Napa can get it in a 5 gallon box, so I have one on the way. That should be good for 3 oil changes. It may not help with the valves, but if it works as advertised on pistons and rings, I'll be able to avoid the stuck rings and bore scoring issues. That would be nice.
As for the intake valves, I checked them when I had the intake off to change the spark plugs last year. I forget the exact mileage (~65,000), but they were already looking a little crusty. Not terrible, but will likely need a proper (walnut blast or similar) cleaning by 100,000.
I typically use Redline oils when I can get them, but after watching Lake Speed Jr's (The Motor Oil Geek) video on the Valvoline Restore and Protect, I thought I would like to give it a try. Well, it's not on the shelf here in Kanada yet, but my local Napa can get it in a 5 gallon box, so I have one on the way. That should be good for 3 oil changes. It may not help with the valves, but if it works as advertised on pistons and rings, I'll be able to avoid the stuck rings and bore scoring issues. That would be nice.
As for the intake valves, I checked them when I had the intake off to change the spark plugs last year. I forget the exact mileage (~65,000), but they were already looking a little crusty. Not terrible, but will likely need a proper (walnut blast or similar) cleaning by 100,000.
The following users liked this post:
NYIS300awdFS (08-01-24)
08-27-24, 03:43 PM
#41
TOYOTA TGMO oil is garbage!!
Most dealers have a bulk tank, and whoever gives them the best deal gets to fill it. In our case, it is a Mobil dealer. It is different than the bottled stuff from the dealer (Toyota Genuine Motor Oil, aka TGMO). TGMO is one of the best 0W20s out there. That said, I'd have no problem using any of the three you listed...all good stuff. Of that three, I've used the Pennzoil most often...hard to beat at the price point, and often comes on sale.
My personal preference though, is Redline. I use 0W20 in the winter, and 5W30 in the summer. If Redline is out of stock, I replace the 0W20 with TGMO or Pennzoil, and the 5W30 with Castrol 0W30 Euro formula (aka German Castrol).
There's lots of good oil info (and opinions) over on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forums.
My personal preference though, is Redline. I use 0W20 in the winter, and 5W30 in the summer. If Redline is out of stock, I replace the 0W20 with TGMO or Pennzoil, and the 5W30 with Castrol 0W30 Euro formula (aka German Castrol).
There's lots of good oil info (and opinions) over on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forums.
i read a million times that TGMO full Syn. 0w-20 was
( great ) goat 🐐 .. blah blah blah
on YT look up VOA compared to ANYTHING else
its a PILE OF RUBBISH with LOW LOW LOW
Moly & Boron !!!! even LOWER in ZDDP ..
i know mobile makes it 4 Toyota BUT it's is
SAD looking mediocre 😔 add pak
please ALL make sure to look up RECENT VOA
as it's clear that formulation has changed to CANOLA
please!!! correct me if im wrong !
Ultra
The following users liked this post:
mountaineer (08-29-24)
The following users liked this post:
Bearcats98 (08-29-24)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post