Price Paid for an IS250/350?
09-12-15, 08:42 AM
#2701
Pole Position
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...01403547&Log=0
09-14-15, 10:57 AM
#2702
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: TX
Posts: 5
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Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-14-15, 11:00 AM
#2703
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: California
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-14-15, 11:11 AM
#2704
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: TX
Posts: 5
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I live in Dallas but ended up driving down to Houston. They were the only dealer in the state that had the color combination I wanted. I didn't want to deal with a dealer transfer. I had to wait about 3 weeks for it to arrive, but it was well worth it.
Being in California, I'm sure you know that it's good to have multiple dealers within driving distance. It gives you much better negotiating power.
Being in California, I'm sure you know that it's good to have multiple dealers within driving distance. It gives you much better negotiating power.
09-14-15, 01:23 PM
#2705
Lexus Test Driver
Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-14-15, 04:15 PM
#2706
Rookie
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-14-15, 05:03 PM
#2707
Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-16-15, 07:10 AM
#2708
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: TX
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Sure, I'll let you know what worked for me. This is my personal experience and opinions and probably will not apply to everyone's situation! No flaming please.
First off, if you are a USAA member, I highly recommend using their car buying service.
First thing I did was and generate a quote using TRUECar. I did this thru the USAA car buying service, but you can also go to truecar.com. The discount can vary significantly depending on market. For Example, there was about a $2000 difference in discount (don't remember specifically) just between Dallas and Houston.
I took that to my local preferred USAA dealer to confirm that they would honor the quote. If you don't have USAA, call your local dealer(s) and see if they will honor the TRUECar price. Fortunately for me they did. That Truecar price became my starting point for negotiations, not the MSRP.
From that point, I went to Dealer #2 to see if they would beat it. I didn't initially tell them the price. I just told them they had one chance to give me their best price. When they came back high, I told them that the dealership across town beat them significantly, by over $2000, and obviously that wasn't their best price. I gave them one more chance and they ended up beating the price.
For me, I knew exactly what color combination I wanted and only 2 dealerships in the state had it. I wanted to deal with those 2 dealerships last since they were both about 200 miles out of town. Fortunately, I struck a deal with the dealership that I preferred.
In the end I ended up getting the car I wanted at a price that was lower than the maximum amount I was willing to spend. I visited 2 local dealerships and dealt with the final out of town dealership over the phone.
I did all the negotiations during August, although the car didn't arrive until Sept. I was told by one of the dealerships I dealt with that they had a sales quota of around 300 cars for the month. That may have played into price reduction some, not sure. Also, I had my own financing so there were no number games on the back-end.
Every market is different depending on local inventory/demand and competition (# of dealers not part of the same auto group.). You should always have an idea of the max $ amount you are willing to spend, and more importantly, be willing to walk away!! Let the salesman know that you are not in a hurry to purchase.
We usually deal with the internet sales people. Even if you don't contact them online you can always go into the dealership and ask for the internet sales manager. For the most part, the internet guys seem to not pressure you as much as someone out on the floor. One exception to this, from personal experience, would be the top performming sales person or one who has been with the company for many years. The final sales person I dealt with was recommended to me and has been with the company for 20+ years. They didn't play any games and was to the point. They are the top sales person for a reason. They sell lots of cars and are more willing to deal to make the sale. Some dealerships will list their employees and years experience on their website.
Finally, Know what you want before you step foot inside a dealership. Be firm and confident. If you don't like what they are telling you, let them know but don't show frustration. If they start playing games like leaving you sitting for long periods of time while they go and "see what they can do", get up and leave. Trust me, they will call you! I didn't stay in a dealership for more than 30 minutes. Spent more time in the dealership at delivery than negotiations.
I hope at least some of this info is helpful. By the way I'm just a normal IT guy, if there is such a thing.
09-16-15, 07:26 AM
#2709
Sure, I'll let you know what worked for me. This is my personal experience and opinions and probably will not apply to everyone's situation! No flaming please.
First off, if you are a USAA member, I highly recommend using their car buying service.
First thing I did was and generate a quote using TRUECar. I did this thru the USAA car buying service, but you can also go to truecar.com. The discount can vary significantly depending on market. For Example, there was about a $2000 difference in discount (don't remember specifically) just between Dallas and Houston.
I took that to my local preferred USAA dealer to confirm that they would honor the quote. If you don't have USAA, call your local dealer(s) and see if they will honor the TRUECar price. Fortunately for me they did. That Truecar price became my starting point for negotiations, not the MSRP.
From that point, I went to Dealer #2 to see if they would beat it. I didn't initially tell them the price. I just told them they had one chance to give me their best price. When they came back high, I told them that the dealership across town beat them significantly, by over $2000, and obviously that wasn't their best price. I gave them one more chance and they ended up beating the price.
For me, I knew exactly what color combination I wanted and only 2 dealerships in the state had it. I wanted to deal with those 2 dealerships last since they were both about 200 miles out of town. Fortunately, I struck a deal with the dealership that I preferred.
In the end I ended up getting the car I wanted at a price that was lower than the maximum amount I was willing to spend. I visited 2 local dealerships and dealt with the final out of town dealership over the phone.
I did all the negotiations during August, although the car didn't arrive until Sept. I was told by one of the dealerships I dealt with that they had a sales quota of around 300 cars for the month. That may have played into price reduction some, not sure. Also, I had my own financing so there were no number games on the back-end.
Every market is different depending on local inventory/demand and competition (# of dealers not part of the same auto group.). You should always have an idea of the max $ amount you are willing to spend, and more importantly, be willing to walk away!! Let the salesman know that you are not in a hurry to purchase.
We usually deal with the internet sales people. Even if you don't contact them online you can always go into the dealership and ask for the internet sales manager. For the most part, the internet guys seem to not pressure you as much as someone out on the floor. One exception to this, from personal experience, would be the top performming sales person or one who has been with the company for many years. The final sales person I dealt with was recommended to me and has been with the company for 20+ years. They didn't play any games and was to the point. They are the top sales person for a reason. They sell lots of cars and are more willing to deal to make the sale. Some dealerships will list their employees and years experience on their website.
Finally, Know what you want before you step foot inside a dealership. Be firm and confident. If you don't like what they are telling you, let them know but don't show frustration. If they start playing games like leaving you sitting for long periods of time while they go and "see what they can do", get up and leave. Trust me, they will call you! I didn't stay in a dealership for more than 30 minutes. Spent more time in the dealership at delivery than negotiations.
I hope at least some of this info is helpful. By the way I'm just a normal IT guy, if there is such a thing.
First off, if you are a USAA member, I highly recommend using their car buying service.
First thing I did was and generate a quote using TRUECar. I did this thru the USAA car buying service, but you can also go to truecar.com. The discount can vary significantly depending on market. For Example, there was about a $2000 difference in discount (don't remember specifically) just between Dallas and Houston.
I took that to my local preferred USAA dealer to confirm that they would honor the quote. If you don't have USAA, call your local dealer(s) and see if they will honor the TRUECar price. Fortunately for me they did. That Truecar price became my starting point for negotiations, not the MSRP.
From that point, I went to Dealer #2 to see if they would beat it. I didn't initially tell them the price. I just told them they had one chance to give me their best price. When they came back high, I told them that the dealership across town beat them significantly, by over $2000, and obviously that wasn't their best price. I gave them one more chance and they ended up beating the price.
For me, I knew exactly what color combination I wanted and only 2 dealerships in the state had it. I wanted to deal with those 2 dealerships last since they were both about 200 miles out of town. Fortunately, I struck a deal with the dealership that I preferred.
In the end I ended up getting the car I wanted at a price that was lower than the maximum amount I was willing to spend. I visited 2 local dealerships and dealt with the final out of town dealership over the phone.
I did all the negotiations during August, although the car didn't arrive until Sept. I was told by one of the dealerships I dealt with that they had a sales quota of around 300 cars for the month. That may have played into price reduction some, not sure. Also, I had my own financing so there were no number games on the back-end.
Every market is different depending on local inventory/demand and competition (# of dealers not part of the same auto group.). You should always have an idea of the max $ amount you are willing to spend, and more importantly, be willing to walk away!! Let the salesman know that you are not in a hurry to purchase.
We usually deal with the internet sales people. Even if you don't contact them online you can always go into the dealership and ask for the internet sales manager. For the most part, the internet guys seem to not pressure you as much as someone out on the floor. One exception to this, from personal experience, would be the top performming sales person or one who has been with the company for many years. The final sales person I dealt with was recommended to me and has been with the company for 20+ years. They didn't play any games and was to the point. They are the top sales person for a reason. They sell lots of cars and are more willing to deal to make the sale. Some dealerships will list their employees and years experience on their website.
Finally, Know what you want before you step foot inside a dealership. Be firm and confident. If you don't like what they are telling you, let them know but don't show frustration. If they start playing games like leaving you sitting for long periods of time while they go and "see what they can do", get up and leave. Trust me, they will call you! I didn't stay in a dealership for more than 30 minutes. Spent more time in the dealership at delivery than negotiations.
I hope at least some of this info is helpful. By the way I'm just a normal IT guy, if there is such a thing.
09-16-15, 08:56 AM
#2710
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: TX
Posts: 5
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So it's a little tricky because when you configure a car on TRUECar, not all of the options are there to pick from, such as the dealer installed options, so you have to get as close as you can. For example, none of the accessory packages (truck mat, wheel locks, etc.) are listed on TRUECar. I believe my original TRUECar configuration was for a car priced at 47,600 and the TRUECar price was around 44,000 ish. In the end the car I purchased was 48,383 MSRP and the discount was around 6700, not including the tint and mats I had them throw in.
Seems that every dealer will order their cars from the factory with different options depending on what their customer base expects. For example, some dealers will order most of their cars with the rear lip spoiler and some will only order a few. Also, my experience here in Texas is that a lot of dealers didn't order the 2015 ISs with the ML sound system but I've read that out in Cali its hard to find an IS without it.
Seems that every dealer will order their cars from the factory with different options depending on what their customer base expects. For example, some dealers will order most of their cars with the rear lip spoiler and some will only order a few. Also, my experience here in Texas is that a lot of dealers didn't order the 2015 ISs with the ML sound system but I've read that out in Cali its hard to find an IS without it.
09-16-15, 09:16 AM
#2711
Lexus Test Driver
Sure, I'll let you know what worked for me. This is my personal experience and opinions and probably will not apply to everyone's situation! No flaming please.
First off, if you are a USAA member, I highly recommend using their car buying service.
First thing I did was and generate a quote using TRUECar. I did this thru the USAA car buying service, but you can also go to truecar.com. The discount can vary significantly depending on market. For Example, there was about a $2000 difference in discount (don't remember specifically) just between Dallas and Houston.
I took that to my local preferred USAA dealer to confirm that they would honor the quote. If you don't have USAA, call your local dealer(s) and see if they will honor the TRUECar price. Fortunately for me they did. That Truecar price became my starting point for negotiations, not the MSRP.
From that point, I went to Dealer #2 to see if they would beat it. I didn't initially tell them the price. I just told them they had one chance to give me their best price. When they came back high, I told them that the dealership across town beat them significantly, by over $2000, and obviously that wasn't their best price. I gave them one more chance and they ended up beating the price.
For me, I knew exactly what color combination I wanted and only 2 dealerships in the state had it. I wanted to deal with those 2 dealerships last since they were both about 200 miles out of town. Fortunately, I struck a deal with the dealership that I preferred.
In the end I ended up getting the car I wanted at a price that was lower than the maximum amount I was willing to spend. I visited 2 local dealerships and dealt with the final out of town dealership over the phone.
I did all the negotiations during August, although the car didn't arrive until Sept. I was told by one of the dealerships I dealt with that they had a sales quota of around 300 cars for the month. That may have played into price reduction some, not sure. Also, I had my own financing so there were no number games on the back-end.
Every market is different depending on local inventory/demand and competition (# of dealers not part of the same auto group.). You should always have an idea of the max $ amount you are willing to spend, and more importantly, be willing to walk away!! Let the salesman know that you are not in a hurry to purchase.
We usually deal with the internet sales people. Even if you don't contact them online you can always go into the dealership and ask for the internet sales manager. For the most part, the internet guys seem to not pressure you as much as someone out on the floor. One exception to this, from personal experience, would be the top performming sales person or one who has been with the company for many years. The final sales person I dealt with was recommended to me and has been with the company for 20+ years. They didn't play any games and was to the point. They are the top sales person for a reason. They sell lots of cars and are more willing to deal to make the sale. Some dealerships will list their employees and years experience on their website.
Finally, Know what you want before you step foot inside a dealership. Be firm and confident. If you don't like what they are telling you, let them know but don't show frustration. If they start playing games like leaving you sitting for long periods of time while they go and "see what they can do", get up and leave. Trust me, they will call you! I didn't stay in a dealership for more than 30 minutes. Spent more time in the dealership at delivery than negotiations.
I hope at least some of this info is helpful. By the way I'm just a normal IT guy, if there is such a thing.
First off, if you are a USAA member, I highly recommend using their car buying service.
First thing I did was and generate a quote using TRUECar. I did this thru the USAA car buying service, but you can also go to truecar.com. The discount can vary significantly depending on market. For Example, there was about a $2000 difference in discount (don't remember specifically) just between Dallas and Houston.
I took that to my local preferred USAA dealer to confirm that they would honor the quote. If you don't have USAA, call your local dealer(s) and see if they will honor the TRUECar price. Fortunately for me they did. That Truecar price became my starting point for negotiations, not the MSRP.
From that point, I went to Dealer #2 to see if they would beat it. I didn't initially tell them the price. I just told them they had one chance to give me their best price. When they came back high, I told them that the dealership across town beat them significantly, by over $2000, and obviously that wasn't their best price. I gave them one more chance and they ended up beating the price.
For me, I knew exactly what color combination I wanted and only 2 dealerships in the state had it. I wanted to deal with those 2 dealerships last since they were both about 200 miles out of town. Fortunately, I struck a deal with the dealership that I preferred.
In the end I ended up getting the car I wanted at a price that was lower than the maximum amount I was willing to spend. I visited 2 local dealerships and dealt with the final out of town dealership over the phone.
I did all the negotiations during August, although the car didn't arrive until Sept. I was told by one of the dealerships I dealt with that they had a sales quota of around 300 cars for the month. That may have played into price reduction some, not sure. Also, I had my own financing so there were no number games on the back-end.
Every market is different depending on local inventory/demand and competition (# of dealers not part of the same auto group.). You should always have an idea of the max $ amount you are willing to spend, and more importantly, be willing to walk away!! Let the salesman know that you are not in a hurry to purchase.
We usually deal with the internet sales people. Even if you don't contact them online you can always go into the dealership and ask for the internet sales manager. For the most part, the internet guys seem to not pressure you as much as someone out on the floor. One exception to this, from personal experience, would be the top performming sales person or one who has been with the company for many years. The final sales person I dealt with was recommended to me and has been with the company for 20+ years. They didn't play any games and was to the point. They are the top sales person for a reason. They sell lots of cars and are more willing to deal to make the sale. Some dealerships will list their employees and years experience on their website.
Finally, Know what you want before you step foot inside a dealership. Be firm and confident. If you don't like what they are telling you, let them know but don't show frustration. If they start playing games like leaving you sitting for long periods of time while they go and "see what they can do", get up and leave. Trust me, they will call you! I didn't stay in a dealership for more than 30 minutes. Spent more time in the dealership at delivery than negotiations.
I hope at least some of this info is helpful. By the way I'm just a normal IT guy, if there is such a thing.
Great job!
09-18-15, 06:55 AM
#2713
Lexus Test Driver
09-21-15, 08:31 AM
#2714
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Dallas
Posts: 38
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Received 0 Likes
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Hi all,
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
Just purchased my first Lexus! 2015 Ultra White IS350 F-Sport RWD with Black interior. The usual options and accessories. Right off the truck with 10 miles on the ODO at delivery.
MSRP $48,383
Paid $41,700 (before TTL)
Got Dealer to throw in tint and rubber mats.
No dealer discounts.
09-21-15, 08:34 AM
#2715