12-16-14, 11:38 AM
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09-05-13, 03:09 PM
#66
Great service from these guys 
One of the LED panels I got had a poor connection, so the panel cut out when driving over bumps.
After having tested if it was the panel or wireing upon their request, and found that it was the panel itself, they sent me a new panel right away. No discussion.
One of the LED panels I got had a poor connection, so the panel cut out when driving over bumps.
After having tested if it was the panel or wireing upon their request, and found that it was the panel itself, they sent me a new panel right away. No discussion.
09-09-13, 12:51 AM
#67
Great service from these guys
One of the LED panels I got had a poor connection, so the panel cut out when driving over bumps.
After having tested if it was the panel or wireing upon their request, and found that it was the panel itself, they sent me a new panel right away. No discussion.
One of the LED panels I got had a poor connection, so the panel cut out when driving over bumps.
After having tested if it was the panel or wireing upon their request, and found that it was the panel itself, they sent me a new panel right away. No discussion.
09-12-13, 06:08 AM
#69
One more important piece of information to those who change the light in the trunk.
On top of the bulb holder is a black plastic shield that prevents light to be visible from outside the rear window on top of the hat shelf.
This black plastic part can come loose, and be stuck inside a hollow metal beam where the lights attaches.
It makes a rattle sound when it travels around inside there.
Had to go to my dealership to get the piece removed after it came loose.
The trick if it comes loose will have to be to pry it out with some sort of tool through the opening where the light attaches.
On top of the bulb holder is a black plastic shield that prevents light to be visible from outside the rear window on top of the hat shelf.
This black plastic part can come loose, and be stuck inside a hollow metal beam where the lights attaches.
It makes a rattle sound when it travels around inside there.
Had to go to my dealership to get the piece removed after it came loose.
The trick if it comes loose will have to be to pry it out with some sort of tool through the opening where the light attaches.
09-14-13, 11:22 AM
#70
Also a victim of the trunk light breaking trying to remove...any idea on the part number for replacement? Thanks!
09-14-13, 03:35 PM
#71
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Definitely not the best way to do the reverse lights. You don't need to take anything off but a few clips from the liner on the top of the truck. I took the whole liner off to make sure I didn't warp anything. After that just do a quarter turn on the bulb housing and it will come out. Then take the bulb out.
Just installed most of my interior lights.
Thought I'd write up a small DYI in here.
If there is a separate DIY tread for installment, please copy this post to have in the right place.
You may need to adjust the the small leads at the socket of the LED to get a good connection, as some of them can be twisted or bent out of place.
Also, LED bulbs needs correct polarity, so test that the lights work before asembling them again.
Sorry about poor quality cell phone pics.
All procedures for changing bulbs are described in the owners manual for the car.
It is a very good idea to have a prying tool made of plastic or vinyl, to avoid damaging any parts.
Like these tools: 9 PC Nylon Pry Bar Set Dash Panel Trim Removal Tool Kit Installer Must Have | eBay
This is the one I used:
Reverse\back up light. Difficulty: 4\10 with the correct tools and some knowlige about how to work on cars.
The housing is attached with 4 nuts.
You need to remove the cover at underside of the boot lid, to get access to all the nuts.
You will need a panel clip remvoing tool for this.
The light housing will come loose after removing the four nuts. Disconnect the wireing before removing the housing.
The new led bulb will have a tight fit, so be careful when putting it in place. Check the polarity and that the bulb works before you put the socket in the housing, otherwise you might loose the bulb inside the housing, and it is a b****h to get out again.
For the trunk light, have the same prying tool made of vinyl or plastic. Push it in where there is a small arrow at the plastic. It will then come loose without any problems and without the risk of braking it. Remove the old bulb and in with the new.
Just push the light housing back in plase. Difficulty 2\10.
The interior map and dome lights are the same housing.
Again the prying tool is essential aand will do the job very easy. Just remove the plastic cover over the bulbs and you have access to all the bulbs. There are small gaps in the end you should pry. No need for an explanitory DYI.
Difficulty 1\10
Vanity lights: Same thing here. The tool is still ensential.
Difficulty 1\10
Curtisy lights:
Pry open the clear lens cover, and the lighting "unit" wil come out.
Dissconect the wire and you be left with the "unit" that conssicts of three parts. The parts are hold together with a clipping function. Just take a small screwdriver and pry asside the tap, and pull the parts from eachother.
To get access to change the bulb, it is easiest to take the "unit" appart.
Again try the bub and polarity before assembling anything.
Difficulty 3\10.
Footweel lights. Difficulty 3\10 (due to hard to access, under the dash placement.)
The clear plastic lens can be pryes out with the same prying tool.
You now have access to bulb. Pull it out and swap.
Mirror puddle lights.
This is where it gets tricky.
According to the owners manual, the whole mirror housing will have to be taken apart.
I have not done this myself yet, so the DIY will be written when I've done this and have pictures of the process.
More Picturs of the new lights will come within a few days.
Picturs for the DIY will also come within a few days, except for the puddle lights.
Some pictures of the new lighting.
Sorry about poor quality. Needed a tripod for the camera, because the pics are taken without flash.
I have the 9 spec LED in the dome lights, the 12 spec LED in the map lights, the 6 spec LED in the curtisy lights, and the brightest LED in the trunk light.
Thought I'd write up a small DYI in here.
If there is a separate DIY tread for installment, please copy this post to have in the right place.
You may need to adjust the the small leads at the socket of the LED to get a good connection, as some of them can be twisted or bent out of place.
Also, LED bulbs needs correct polarity, so test that the lights work before asembling them again.
Sorry about poor quality cell phone pics.
All procedures for changing bulbs are described in the owners manual for the car.
It is a very good idea to have a prying tool made of plastic or vinyl, to avoid damaging any parts.
Like these tools: 9 PC Nylon Pry Bar Set Dash Panel Trim Removal Tool Kit Installer Must Have | eBay
This is the one I used:
Reverse\back up light. Difficulty: 4\10 with the correct tools and some knowlige about how to work on cars.
The housing is attached with 4 nuts.
You need to remove the cover at underside of the boot lid, to get access to all the nuts.
You will need a panel clip remvoing tool for this.
The light housing will come loose after removing the four nuts. Disconnect the wireing before removing the housing.
The new led bulb will have a tight fit, so be careful when putting it in place. Check the polarity and that the bulb works before you put the socket in the housing, otherwise you might loose the bulb inside the housing, and it is a b****h to get out again.
For the trunk light, have the same prying tool made of vinyl or plastic. Push it in where there is a small arrow at the plastic. It will then come loose without any problems and without the risk of braking it. Remove the old bulb and in with the new.
Just push the light housing back in plase. Difficulty 2\10.
The interior map and dome lights are the same housing.
Again the prying tool is essential aand will do the job very easy. Just remove the plastic cover over the bulbs and you have access to all the bulbs. There are small gaps in the end you should pry. No need for an explanitory DYI.
Difficulty 1\10
Vanity lights: Same thing here. The tool is still ensential.
Difficulty 1\10
Curtisy lights:
Pry open the clear lens cover, and the lighting "unit" wil come out.
Dissconect the wire and you be left with the "unit" that conssicts of three parts. The parts are hold together with a clipping function. Just take a small screwdriver and pry asside the tap, and pull the parts from eachother.
To get access to change the bulb, it is easiest to take the "unit" appart.
Again try the bub and polarity before assembling anything.
Difficulty 3\10.
Footweel lights. Difficulty 3\10 (due to hard to access, under the dash placement.)
The clear plastic lens can be pryes out with the same prying tool.
You now have access to bulb. Pull it out and swap.
Mirror puddle lights.
This is where it gets tricky.
According to the owners manual, the whole mirror housing will have to be taken apart.
I have not done this myself yet, so the DIY will be written when I've done this and have pictures of the process.
More Picturs of the new lights will come within a few days.
Picturs for the DIY will also come within a few days, except for the puddle lights.
Some pictures of the new lighting.
Sorry about poor quality. Needed a tripod for the camera, because the pics are taken without flash.
I have the 9 spec LED in the dome lights, the 12 spec LED in the map lights, the 6 spec LED in the curtisy lights, and the brightest LED in the trunk light.
