JL Amp/Sub Install. Woke it Up!!
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
JL Amp/Sub Install. Woke it Up!!
Want to make your stock system come alive? JL Audio has a 500 watt Mono amp that fits perfectly in the floorboard. Also installed one 10 inch JL TW3 in a 5" deep box. (Ignore the white towel its just stuck in there until I figure out how to strap my box down from falling over).
I also left the stock sub plugged in. The JL amp has a remote switch that I put in the blank spot to the right of the BSM button. It sounds AMAZING!.....
The floorboard comes off by removing the 10mm bolt on the cargo net clip. Then the floorboard pops up. Perfect spot to hide the amp.
I also left the stock sub plugged in. The JL amp has a remote switch that I put in the blank spot to the right of the BSM button. It sounds AMAZING!.....
The floorboard comes off by removing the 10mm bolt on the cargo net clip. Then the floorboard pops up. Perfect spot to hide the amp.
#3
Lexus Champion
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Amps sure have gotten smaller since the last time I had an aftermarket audio system in my vehicles. I used to a have a JLA 500x1 that was about twice that size!
I've actually been looking for a simple upgrade to enhance my music listening experience. Thanks for the pics/ideas.
I've actually been looking for a simple upgrade to enhance my music listening experience. Thanks for the pics/ideas.
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#8
I was wondering the same thing. This amp hiding setup looks great, and I'd love to see how the trunk looks after the towels are gone. Also, if you get a chance, could you post a pic of where you put the amp remote by the BSM button?
#9
Looks good!
I have a couple of questions...
Did you have someone do the install or did you do it? If you did, from which set of cables did you get the signal? The stock Sub?
BTW, instead of adding a manual switch, look for an automatic switch that activates when it detects a predetermined volume level (it will fire up the Amp when it detects music playing).
One more question, which way did you run the power cable to the trunk?
Thanks
I have a couple of questions...
Did you have someone do the install or did you do it? If you did, from which set of cables did you get the signal? The stock Sub?
BTW, instead of adding a manual switch, look for an automatic switch that activates when it detects a predetermined volume level (it will fire up the Amp when it detects music playing).
One more question, which way did you run the power cable to the trunk?
Thanks
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
No ML. Towels will be gone as soon as I figure out how to strap the box down. Its only 5" deep so it flips over when I gas to hard. Power was ran along the passenger side and the amp volume level phone cord was ran along the driver side. They tapped into the stock sub somehow. A shop did the work. I will try to take a pic of where they tapped into the sub.
It is very loud and on full volume will shake my house.
It is very loud and on full volume will shake my house.
#11
No ML. Towels will be gone as soon as I figure out how to strap the box down. Its only 5" deep so it flips over when I gas to hard. Power was ran along the passenger side and the amp volume level phone cord was ran along the driver side. They tapped into the stock sub somehow. A shop did the work. I will try to take a pic of where they tapped into the sub.
It is very loud and on full volume will shake my house.
It is very loud and on full volume will shake my house.
I did not do this install on my 2011 IS350 as I was literally LAZY to do it... lol But I think the new 2014 IS350 F I got with the ML System has very good power and I based on the fact I was lazy before, I doubt I would install anything on mine now
I'm sure the installer tapped the same cables on your install as I did to my IS250 5 years ago... damn is been that long
BTW, I used a Sub Box that was wider on the bottom so it didn't flip... but it took too much space on the trunk. I recommend you to find either wood or aluminum panels and make some "feet" for your Sub Box on the front... or back depends how you see it, basically you would add a bigger base so it cannot flip. You can do as I did and put some Velcro Straps to hold the box also in place by attaching it to the Trunk Mat (don't attach it to the seats as they now flip open).
Enjoy your blasting loud sound system!
#12
Fire Slayer
iTrader: (16)
John510, ever thought of building a carpet wrapped piece of wood that wound make it wedge up to the top? I'm sure the shop can do it. Where in 510 you located? Custom Car Alarms did my huge system and they're careful with your car. They're in Pleasant Hill. Nice work though.
#13
That's awesome, can you please post pictures of how it's installed?
I've been dying to see someone post audio upgrades.
So you've retained the stock speakers, only to upgrade an AMP and a Sub woofer?
What's the total cost and where did you get those components?
Do you have problems folding the seat back?
Maybe possibly mount it under the headboard flat down when you're able to conjure a makeshift mount.
I work with acrylic and can make an enclosure for those subs and AMP's with cast acrylic, then carbon fiber wrap it.
Just need the dimensions of those components before I can play around with acrylic.
I use Cast Acrylic and not Extruded. Extruded is very brittle, cast is very durable and can deal with heat and vibrations much better.
The smaller the amp and sub the better really.
I've been dying to see someone post audio upgrades.
So you've retained the stock speakers, only to upgrade an AMP and a Sub woofer?
What's the total cost and where did you get those components?
Do you have problems folding the seat back?
Maybe possibly mount it under the headboard flat down when you're able to conjure a makeshift mount.
I work with acrylic and can make an enclosure for those subs and AMP's with cast acrylic, then carbon fiber wrap it.
Just need the dimensions of those components before I can play around with acrylic.
I use Cast Acrylic and not Extruded. Extruded is very brittle, cast is very durable and can deal with heat and vibrations much better.
The smaller the amp and sub the better really.
#14
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
That's awesome, can you please post pictures of how it's installed?
I've been dying to see someone post audio upgrades.
So you've retained the stock speakers, only to upgrade an AMP and a Sub woofer?
What's the total cost and where did you get those components?
Do you have problems folding the seat back?
Maybe possibly mount it under the headboard flat down when you're able to conjure a makeshift mount.
I work with acrylic and can make an enclosure for those subs and AMP's with cast acrylic, then carbon fiber wrap it.
Just need the dimensions of those components before I can play around with acrylic.
I use Cast Acrylic and not Extruded. Extruded is very brittle, cast is very durable and can deal with heat and vibrations much better.
The smaller the amp and sub the better really.
I've been dying to see someone post audio upgrades.
So you've retained the stock speakers, only to upgrade an AMP and a Sub woofer?
What's the total cost and where did you get those components?
Do you have problems folding the seat back?
Maybe possibly mount it under the headboard flat down when you're able to conjure a makeshift mount.
I work with acrylic and can make an enclosure for those subs and AMP's with cast acrylic, then carbon fiber wrap it.
Just need the dimensions of those components before I can play around with acrylic.
I use Cast Acrylic and not Extruded. Extruded is very brittle, cast is very durable and can deal with heat and vibrations much better.
The smaller the amp and sub the better really.
#15
Kar Tunz in Pleasanton installed it so I dont have pics. Total with install and tax was around 9 out the door. I kept the stock system since it sounds very nice. Just needed more bass. I dont ever fold my seats down as there is 2 car seats in there for my kids (no I dont blast bass when they are in the car) Im thinking I might just velcro the back of the box to the back of the seats at the top part. That should hold it.