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May I ask what is the symptom of this particular battery drain issue? Leave the garage for a few days without driving it and then the car won't start?
Mine seems to be okay. Because of reading this thread, I have taken measure to minimize hassles and avoiding the need to get towed --- a battery charger and a battery tester in my trunk.
NOCO claims the GB30 could jumpstart a car in secs and it acts as a battery charger for devices as well. Also it is a IP65 devices and it holds 70% of its rated capacity up to a year. I wish I don't ever need to use it to jumpstart a car though...
I got my battery changed via warranty so I hope that will address the issue. Others in the thread suggest it may be the ECU but considering my interaction with the dealer, it would be hard pressed to have them change the ECU without going through a couple more batteries first. I will keep that battery starter in mind in the event I run out of warranty and still want to keep my car.
Nothing like NOT having peace of mind of being stuck without warning.
UPDATE: Got my car back today after servicing the power draw issue. They stated Lexus Canada is aware of the issue and further investigating. In the interim, my dealer tested my existing battery, it was low at 368 Cold Cranking Amps, so a brand new one was installed. It likely will not address the root cause, but at least the battery they replaced appears to be a heavy duty 7 year, 575 CCA which will automatically last me longer than the boosted-twice old battery.
Can anyone check the original battery CCA rating? Just curious to know if the new battery has a larger capacity or not.
Original:
New:
Work Order:
UPDATE: No issues since the battery replacement 10 months ago. Longest stretch ever with no issues.
Same issue happened with my 2014 IS250. Car had 17K miles when one morning it wouldn't start. Had the car jumped and drove it for 20 minutes. Everything seemed fine, but my wife insisted that I take her car to the dealership to get it checked out.
Dealer tested the battery under a load and it failed. They replaced it with a brand new one which looks just like the one CorradoMR2 has. It's 575 cranking amp, so hopefully this resolves the issue for a long time.
Same issue happened with my 2014 IS250. Car had 17K miles when one morning it wouldn't start. Had the car jumped and drove it for 20 minutes. Everything seemed fine, but my wife insisted that I take her car to the dealership to get it checked out.
Dealer tested the battery under a load and it failed. They replaced it with a brand new one which looks just like the one CorradoMR2 has. It's 575 cranking amp, so hopefully this resolves the issue for a long time.
Corrado, I'm sorry to say, but I don't think replacing the battery with a higher capacity one fixes the root cause. It just masks it to the point where it takes longer for the battery to reach a fully discharged state. I think there is an issue in the charging monitoring algorithm that stops charging before a full charge is reached. Some have reported that Lexus has replaced the "gate ECU" and that resolved the issue without a battery replacement. I think that is the real issue, the new ECU probably fixed whatever flaw the old one had. A new battery may still be required if discharged deep enough and often enough to impact its ability to hold a charge.
Anyone that has a single dashcam with parking mode and has the battery drain issue?
Reason why I am asking is I find the parking mode won't last for 3-4 hours in a covered parking if I set the shut-off threshold to be 12.4V.
A fully charged battery under no loads should read well over 14 volts, mostly 14.7 volts. When under "rated load", it should stay at around the 12.4v mark, until the load increases to the maximum sustained load where it go under 12v. Under CCA load, it should still be just under 12v.
A dashcam is minuscule load for a car battery, if it is shutting off because it senses the voltage to be below 12.4v then the battery is not holding a charge.
In reading these various threads, I think that the battery is being undercharged and eventually it impacts it's ability to hold a full charge. Replacing the battery may provide medium term relief, but the real fix is to fix the undercharging issue. Off course, this is assuming you fix the issue before the battery is damaged, otherwise you still need a new battery too.
Last edited by My0gr81; 07-07-15 at 09:37 AM.
Reason: Updated to reflect LeapFrog's input.
A fully charged battery under no loads should read well over 14 volts, mostly 14.7 volts. When under "rated load", it should stay at around the 14v mark, until the load increases to the maximum sustained load where it should still be over 12v. Under CCA load, it should still be over 12v..
I'm not sure where you got these numbers, but for lead-acid (flooded, standard) batteries at rest - that is, not charging or discharging - these are the typical indicator voltages for "state of charge":
I'm not sure where you got these numbers, but for lead-acid (flooded, standard) batteries at rest - that is, not charging or discharging - these are the typical indicator voltages for "state of charge":
Nominal charged state under load should not be under 12.4v, put a voltmeter (open circuit) accross an optimal and fully charged battery and you will read over 14v.
The figures provided in the table in your link are accurate for "nominal load" situations. I will change my original though to reflect that this is under nominal load, under maximum load, it does go under 12v.
Nominal charged state under load should not be under 12.4v, put a voltmeter (open circuit) accross an optimal and fully charged battery and you will read over 14v.
If you are seeing voltages above 100% SOC (e.g., 12.6V) then you are observing the surface charge left by the charging system. In 24 hours the surface charge will have dissipated and the nominal voltage should be approximately 12.6V.
I just checked my (1 month old) IS 350's battery with a Fluke 87-V (.05% DCV accuracy) and it reads 12.58V. The car was last used yesterday afternoon so any surface charge has dissipated by now.