Hardwiring a radar detector
#61
Pole Position
Make sure you are pushing the pin in BETWEEN the white multi-connector body and the individual wires themselves. You may find you have to put it in one of the corners in order to get it past the point where the wire is crimped to the power connector (the blue arrow). In my case I took a grinder to the end of the pin so as to make it thin enough to pass into the connector body and make contact with the power pin(s).
Last edited by LeapFrog; 09-21-15 at 12:43 PM.
#62
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Thanks for the additional info. I tried once again last night and the issue is quite simply the pins are too large to properly fit in between the connector and the wire. I tried to push in as much as possible and they simply kept falling out. I have no way of grinding down the pin, so I went ahead and purchased the wire on Amazon recommended previously. Hoping this solves the issue
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Thanks for the additional info. I tried once again last night and the issue is quite simply the pins are too large to properly fit in between the connector and the wire. I tried to push in as much as possible and they simply kept falling out. I have no way of grinding down the pin, so I went ahead and purchased the wire on Amazon recommended previously. Hoping this solves the issue
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I need more instruction. I am mounting my V1 on the B post with industrial strength velcro. Power cable runs to driver side under the dash, where I would like to splice into an ignition switched cable from the fuse panel there. From above posts I surmise that the IG1 No.3 fused cable is a good choice for the power.
1. How do I get at the cable?? When I remove the obvious bolt that secures the fuse panel to the bracket, the panel remains attached in place somehow.
2. Can I remove one of the multi-pin connectors from the fuse panel and gain access the proper cable that way. If so, how and which connector and which wire from the connector?
3. Is there an easier way to get power from that general area, under driver side dash?
Thanks in advance.
1. How do I get at the cable?? When I remove the obvious bolt that secures the fuse panel to the bracket, the panel remains attached in place somehow.
2. Can I remove one of the multi-pin connectors from the fuse panel and gain access the proper cable that way. If so, how and which connector and which wire from the connector?
3. Is there an easier way to get power from that general area, under driver side dash?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jspencer46; 12-01-15 at 04:40 PM.
#65
This picture shows how to slide down the wire harness cover:
I took more pictures to help others along,
the mirror is a GENTEX brand mirror - i would say its the same as a GENTEX model 313 however its made specifically for Lexus in that the wiring is routed internal the mounting and is completely unseen. I say Gentex 313 because of its features and typical 313 ten pin harness that is identical to other gentex 313 mirrors. from the pics below, you can see the 313 BLACK female harness built into the mirror mount cover.
So, after sliding down the cover like the picture quoted above, i simply just used a T20 torx bit and unscrewed the mirror from the mount.
This allowed me to slide up the entire assembly and off comes the mirror. use a flat screw driver and release the tab on the harness and whats left hanging is the car side white harness with the color wires quoted above:
Car side harness hanging from headliner after mirror removed:
This is the mirror end, you can see where the white harness was connected to the BLACK female harness of the gentex (typical gentex 10 pin female) end:
Next, this is a good picture showing the colors dojoman listed on the car side harness:
Hope this helps some further to not be afraid to remove it. its very very simple. doesnt take any strong pulling or pushing and is very easy for anyone to do in 30 minutes or so.
In case of dropping a tool, etc - I would say lay a towel over your dash, protect your nav screen, etc...(typical precautions when doing a project).
Take care,
-J
I took more pictures to help others along,
the mirror is a GENTEX brand mirror - i would say its the same as a GENTEX model 313 however its made specifically for Lexus in that the wiring is routed internal the mounting and is completely unseen. I say Gentex 313 because of its features and typical 313 ten pin harness that is identical to other gentex 313 mirrors. from the pics below, you can see the 313 BLACK female harness built into the mirror mount cover.
So, after sliding down the cover like the picture quoted above, i simply just used a T20 torx bit and unscrewed the mirror from the mount.
This allowed me to slide up the entire assembly and off comes the mirror. use a flat screw driver and release the tab on the harness and whats left hanging is the car side white harness with the color wires quoted above:
Car side harness hanging from headliner after mirror removed:
This is the mirror end, you can see where the white harness was connected to the BLACK female harness of the gentex (typical gentex 10 pin female) end:
Next, this is a good picture showing the colors dojoman listed on the car side harness:
Hope this helps some further to not be afraid to remove it. its very very simple. doesnt take any strong pulling or pushing and is very easy for anyone to do in 30 minutes or so.
In case of dropping a tool, etc - I would say lay a towel over your dash, protect your nav screen, etc...(typical precautions when doing a project).
Take care,
-J
Just fyi, on my USA 2016 with auto dimming mirrors and homelink it is opposite of this picture, thank you for the guide though, was much easier just reversing the wires rather than having to figure out which is which!
Now the only problem I think is going to be radar assist cruise control and pre collision, figured I'd try it anyway, using a 9500ix.
#70
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So I bought this from recommendations on here, and the prongs went into the harness pretty easily. On my 2016 IS, the blue wire and purple wire are opposite from the picture above, so I just put the positive with the blue and negative with the purple. Turned the car on, and no power to the radar detector. I have the connectors in as far as they can go, so maybe the connectors aren't long enough? Not sure what the issue is!
#71
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So I bought this Amazon.com : Radar Mount Mirror Wire Power Cord for Escort Radar Detectors With Inline Fuse RJ11 : Car Electronics from recommendations on here, and the prongs went into the harness pretty easily. On my 2016 IS, the blue wire and purple wire are opposite from the picture above, so I just put the positive with the blue and negative with the purple. Turned the car on, and no power to the radar detector. I have the connectors in as far as they can go, so maybe the connectors aren't long enough? Not sure what the issue is!
I almost want to suggest you switch the ground/power pins and see if you can get your detector to power on, but you might run the risk of blowing a fuse somewhere along the way. Or rendering your cable useless altogether.
I think your best bet would be to identify which manufacturer built your mirror and work from there to determine the pin output on the mirror harness. I didn't push the pins too far in for fear of breaking something and I had my detector powered the first time.
Best of luck to you. Loving the mirror mount hope you can get yours to work well!
PS: Maybe call MirrorTap and pretend you bought one of their cables. See if they'll help you identify the pin output on the 2016 Lexus IS mirror
#72
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Hm, interesting. Someone earlier in this thread mentioned the 2016 wires being different colors....
I almost want to suggest you switch the ground/power pins and see if you can get your detector to power on, but you might run the risk of blowing a fuse somewhere along the way. Or rendering your cable useless altogether.
I think your best bet would be to identify which manufacturer built your mirror and work from there to determine the pin output on the mirror harness. I didn't push the pins too far in for fear of breaking something and I had my detector powered the first time.
Best of luck to you. Loving the mirror mount hope you can get yours to work well!
PS: Maybe call MirrorTap and pretend you bought one of their cables. See if they'll help you identify the pin output on the 2016 Lexus IS mirror
I almost want to suggest you switch the ground/power pins and see if you can get your detector to power on, but you might run the risk of blowing a fuse somewhere along the way. Or rendering your cable useless altogether.
I think your best bet would be to identify which manufacturer built your mirror and work from there to determine the pin output on the mirror harness. I didn't push the pins too far in for fear of breaking something and I had my detector powered the first time.
Best of luck to you. Loving the mirror mount hope you can get yours to work well!
PS: Maybe call MirrorTap and pretend you bought one of their cables. See if they'll help you identify the pin output on the 2016 Lexus IS mirror
#73
Pole Position
Get a voltmeter and see what is wrong
I wouldn't risk switching the pins unless you measure the voltage and polarity first. Most likely the pins are not contacting the internal wire connector(s). Easy to find with a $10 voltmeter.
Last edited by LeapFrog; 02-11-16 at 01:20 PM. Reason: Never mind
#74
Thanks for the additional info. I tried once again last night and the issue is quite simply the pins are too large to properly fit in between the connector and the wire. I tried to push in as much as possible and they simply kept falling out. I have no way of grinding down the pin, so I went ahead and purchased the wire on Amazon recommended previously. Hoping this solves the issue
JP30, were you finally able to resolve your issue on the mirror tap?
I plan on doing a mirror-tap myself. Can someone confirm that the following is correct:
The red from the mirror-tap goes into the blue wire in the harness.
And the black from mirror-tap into the purple wire of the harness.
Is this the right connection? Can someone confirm if this is correct. My mirror-tap arrives Monday.
Last edited by Lex2133; 05-08-16 at 04:01 PM.