IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

DIY: Oil Change 2014+ IS350 w/ pics

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Old 03-26-18, 03:03 PM
  #76  
benj0
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I did my first DYI oil change on my 2015 IS 250, previous oil changes were done by Lexus and by Toyota, I was fairly straight forward. I use OEM filter which came with a crash washer for the plug. I borrowed my neighbors rhino ramp but I used the jack to lift then rest the tires on the ramp. I have an oil filter wrench so I used it instead to remove the filter. I did the filter first before the oil plug removal, I don't know if it makes a difference as to which one to remove first. I set the torque wrench to 30 to tighten the drain plug.

I did the maintenance init routine after the oil change even though I do not have an oil minder alert. My mileage is low but it is almost one year since my last oil change so I decided to try performing it my self.
Old 04-19-18, 03:33 PM
  #77  
lexuscanuk
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Hello. Buying th parts for my 2014 is350 executive. Just as an fyi. The filter 04152-YZZA5 is the same exact filter as 04152-YZZA3.
I thought there was something wrong at first but the guy at Toyota parts department brought me both numbers and we saw both filters and they were identical. Even the part number in the flaps of the filter itself was the same. The only difference was that the A5 box had more things in it like the plastic tube and extra rubber ring which nobody ever uses anyways.
now we know.
Old 04-20-18, 12:54 PM
  #78  
E46CT
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Did the oil change on my 200t couple weeks ago. straightforward. oil filter and oil pan drain plug located right next to eachother near the transmission tunnel - near where the drivers feet would be under the car. Just look for the oil drain plug and the filter is right next to it on the left (towards driver side)

5 quarts. needs special tool (super cheap online). used 5quarts castrol magnatec 0w-20.

though next time i may try a 0w-30 for extra protection for performance driving.
Old 04-05-20, 09:55 AM
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NicB
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Probably the easiest oil change of our three vehicles. The filter on our IS350 Fsport is positioned parallel to ground (Same as in pictures by the OP). I just cracked the filter housing open and let the oil dribble out, no mess. I put a new “crush” washer on the drain bolt, but after close inspection of the old washer, I really question if it needs to be replaced. Cheap insurance I guess. My OEM filter kit did not come with it, but I got a bunch from Toyota for free as I used them in my Land Cruiser as well. I torqued to 18 ftlbs (25 Nm) for the drain plug and the oil filter housing. The oil filter housing couldn’t be turned much past hand tight (torqued wrench clicked off). Checked for leaks, good to go. As an aside, I used Mobil 1 0W-20. Good *****.
Old 04-07-20, 11:43 AM
  #80  
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Thanks for the write up
Old 04-13-20, 12:54 PM
  #81  
Neat
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Originally Posted by altezzza
What’s going on… Didn't notice a 3IS oil change DIY yet so thought I'd document mine..
So my old man and I own a little service shop and I decided to do my first oil change on my 2014 IS350 RWD ( non-fsport.. with f-sport front bumper and wheels )
I’m all about doing stuff myself obviously so here we go!

Here’s my equipment:
Oil Filter (Element - From local Toyota/Lexus Dealer)
Oil Filter “F" Cap Wrench (Online , Local Part Stores)
Oil Drain Container (I Used my old pro-grade one)
Funnel
10mm Socket (C’mon, you’re a car guy, right? :P)
14mm Socket (Remove Oil Plug)
6 x 1 Qt of Synthetic Oil - 0w20
Shop Towel(s)
Some kind of Shop Gloves
Wouldn't you need 7 x 1 qt of oil if the capacity is 6.8? Obviously you wouldn't empty all 7 into the engine. Or am I missing something?
Old 04-14-20, 05:41 AM
  #82  
bgross88
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Thought I'd post this here rather than starting a new thread...

Can anyone provide/point me to the part number for the plastic filter cover/screws? Just did my 1st oil change on my new to me IS300 and the cover is missing.

I did a few searches and can't seem to find it/them.

Thanks.
Old 08-13-20, 04:54 AM
  #83  
nitroracer
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Originally Posted by Sybaritic
My neck is very sore from trying not to rest my head on the ground. It's not a bad thing to build a relationship with the dealer, but I suppose the cheaper options are going to a Toyota dealer, going to an indie, or buying your own synthetic oil and filters, and bringing those to a licensed tech.
PRO TIP: Get yourself a $30 creeper from Harbor Freight and you'll find not only are you *comfortable* under your car, you'll actually enjoy it! Trying to inchworm in and out from under a car is the #1 deterrent from ever wanting to go back.


Old 08-13-20, 05:00 AM
  #84  
nitroracer
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Originally Posted by Dark9t316
Fellas, i tried putting the car on jack stands today, i heard a loud crunch noise... yes that's my side rail bending sigh. Now i know the IS350 is way too heavy to be resting on 2 metal rail points. I then tried driving up ramps, not sure what brand but i had to remove the bottom scraper to get up there. Once up there, i didn't feel safe with the ramp slightly bulging, so i put the jack stands on the sides just in case. Turns out no F wrench means it's impossible to get the filter out. At that point I've lost all urge to change the oil. I decided to throw in the towel and went ahead and returned the filter and oil. Lexus had made it really difficult for owners to do something so simple. Looks like I'll be paying the $100 oil changes cause quite honestly, the hassle doesn't seem to be worth it anymore.

By the way, turns out the oil filter + gasket was about $7 at lexus dealership. At Toyota dealership, I had bought a dozen qts of 0-20 oil for $7.67ish each and was given 15% volume discount, and they didn't carry the A3 oil filer. Good luck to anyone else who tries to change oil without a professional lift.
Just did mine on a 2018 - used a jack lift and an impact wrench (an investment all car owners should make). You can also get a cheap pair of Rhino Ramps. There are a myriad number of options, actually, to get under ones car comfortably. 99% of jobs/installs/maintenance can be done with these two inexpensive items.

A lot of posts on here but I haven't seen any references to where the lift point is in the front. I stole someone's image here and circled it in yellow, for your convenience - straight from the vehicles manual in my glovebox. The circled image might look different if you've got a RWD model, but I believe it's still at the same location.




Every time I visit a dealership, my vehicle seems to come back with more problems. Recently went in for the IS fuel pump recall, left with a fuel tank that completely emptied onto the concrete of a Shell Station.

Cheers.

Last edited by nitroracer; 08-13-20 at 05:19 AM.
Old 08-13-20, 05:29 AM
  #85  
nitroracer
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Originally Posted by altezzza
I think you can definitely plug a plastic drain into the cap hole to keep a clean pour..
Not on the IS, as far as I know, there is not. Look at the images posted on this thread of the oil filter cap - no nipple from which to drain the oil.

Just did my own oil change and there was no option for this, else I would've taken that route, as it was considerably messier than the same job I just did on my Audi, which does have a nipple. For that one, I got an oil filter drain hose from MotivXTools and it was much cleaner.
Old 08-13-20, 05:42 AM
  #86  
nitroracer
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Originally Posted by chanman3IS
do we have to replace the crush washer too? instructions in the DIY doesn't say anything? if so, anyone have the part # for it?
Mine fell into the oil catch pan (of the sealed variety), so there was zero chance of fishing it out without creating a huge mess. Fortunately, I planned around my own stupidity and purchased a variety pack ahead of time from AutoZone while I was getting the oil. $3 for various types of M12 washers, which is the size you'll need. They should be right next to wherever the oil cap wrenches are.

Since I didn't actually get a pair of eyes on the washer type, I took a stab and went with a metal washer replacement. Can someone else chime in what is the material of the OEM washer? Is it a synthetic material or metal?

In the long run it probably doesn't matter. I drive quite a bit and I can just replace it again in 10k miles. Torquing the oil cap to the right specs is really the only important part, as long as you have at least some type of crush washer there.
Old 08-13-20, 05:45 AM
  #87  
nitroracer
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Originally Posted by LeapFrog
The o-ring (not crush washer) comes as part of most oil filter kits, don't know about the Lexus OEM one however.

For example:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=ps-7023
They're talking about the washer that goes over the oil pan drain plug, not the o-ring that comes with the oil filter (element).

FYI, if you go with something like a Mobil or K&N filter replacement, they usually come with two o-rings, but you'll only need the big one for this job.
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