IS200t turbo issues
#16
Other than time and a few drop of gasoline is wasted but you will help prolong the engine/turbo life.
I know the Supra's Turbo is the 'not so advance tech' stuff, and should be taking care properly. The turbo charge cool down warning label is stick right on the top of the door panel and by doing what suggested, the original Turbo in my 89 Supra still doing very darn good.
The following users liked this post:
Nuke (12-21-16)
#17
I think it's more common sense than 'advance techno' in this case. When you drive hard, oil can coolant are HOT and if you shut down the engine right away, that HOT residual oil and coolant will sit there and cook the seals and dry up or some sluggy mess that eventually cause problem.
Other than time and a few drop of gasoline is wasted but you will help prolong the engine/turbo life.
I know the Supra's Turbo is the 'not so advance tech' stuff, and should be taking care properly. The turbo charge cool down warning label is stick right on the top of the door panel and by doing what suggested, the original Turbo in my 89 Supra still doing very darn good.
Other than time and a few drop of gasoline is wasted but you will help prolong the engine/turbo life.
I know the Supra's Turbo is the 'not so advance tech' stuff, and should be taking care properly. The turbo charge cool down warning label is stick right on the top of the door panel and by doing what suggested, the original Turbo in my 89 Supra still doing very darn good.
#18
first off would need to remove the addons I had put to avoid voiding the warranty, and secondly where I am (Dubai) dealers are A holes and hard to deal with so am thinking to replace it myself but is there a new revision of the part?
Last edited by Nuke; 12-19-16 at 12:22 AM.
#19
Let's be honest, turbocharged engines are very fickle and have significantly more complex dynamics. It's possible that your aftermarket exhaust system is damaging and/or reducing the performance of the turbo system, perhaps due to decreased back-pressure, perhaps causing the turbo to spool differently than designed, or perhaps changing the way the emissions system makes adjustments to the fuel flow.
I don't know exactly but I do know if I were you I'd replace the stock components and take it into the dealer for warranty repair, and I'd do it soon. You'll save so much time and frustration (and a little money) I'd bet.
Happy Holidays!
#20
BTW, doesn't the IS 200t use a new wastegate design? I once read somewhere something like the new wastegate design doesn't include an actuator that activates to open the wastegate when exhaust pressure needs to be purged, but instead uses a carefully calibrated spring (pressure) that opens passively, on it's own, whenever exhaust pressure reaches the purge point. I think I recall Lexus making the argument that this design is less mechanically complex, is a passive design and is more reliable.
If this is the case then you really may need to bring the car into the dealership for them to perform warranty work.
God knows I've had my troubles with wastegate actuators on turbos in my previous cars. I hate turbos except on leases and rocket engines.
If this is the case then you really may need to bring the car into the dealership for them to perform warranty work.
God knows I've had my troubles with wastegate actuators on turbos in my previous cars. I hate turbos except on leases and rocket engines.
Last edited by Machine13; 12-20-16 at 08:45 AM.
#22
To replace the wastegate actuator that is attached to the turbo must be a very laborious procedure. Probably requires that the turbo (and maybe even the manifold) be removed from the engine, and all the surrounding parts, tubes, etc. to gain access to it all. That is, if it even is, in fact, the wastegate actuator.
Let's be honest, turbocharged engines are very fickle and have significantly more complex dynamics. It's possible that your aftermarket exhaust system is damaging and/or reducing the performance of the turbo system, perhaps due to decreased back-pressure, perhaps causing the turbo to spool differently than designed, or perhaps changing the way the emissions system makes adjustments to the fuel flow.
I don't know exactly but I do know if I were you I'd replace the stock components and take it into the dealer for warranty repair, and I'd do it soon. You'll save so much time and frustration (and a little money) I'd bet.
Happy Holidays!
Let's be honest, turbocharged engines are very fickle and have significantly more complex dynamics. It's possible that your aftermarket exhaust system is damaging and/or reducing the performance of the turbo system, perhaps due to decreased back-pressure, perhaps causing the turbo to spool differently than designed, or perhaps changing the way the emissions system makes adjustments to the fuel flow.
I don't know exactly but I do know if I were you I'd replace the stock components and take it into the dealer for warranty repair, and I'd do it soon. You'll save so much time and frustration (and a little money) I'd bet.
Happy Holidays!
Happy Holidays
#23
really
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
The following users liked this post:
MisterSkiz (12-22-16)
#24
yes really
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
And the 100 engineers you swear by who are sitting developing stuff are just like you and me HUMAN and we all make mistakes in our jobs but more over their focus is designing something that won't come back to them for repairs frequently in order words if they make a 400 BHP engine they will detune it to maybe 280 BHP to cover the company's behind
#25
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
#27
would this issue caused by not letting the engine cool down after a long drive? the carbon and oil didn't run through the engine completely that's why it left sticking. i always warm up my car before i drive and idle my car at least 2 mins before shutting my engine off. all turbo charged engine needs to do this. my 200t is at 15k miles now and still no issues. car is fully stock though.
#28
#29
Man, this sucks.
I had the same symptoms and replaced the part myself, now I have a CEL that reads P25B4 - which is "unknown" from any scanner i've used and the dealer said the same thing when I asked them to look it up. Boost is dead from 2k-2.5k, even reducing rpm's if i'm WOT, but is atleast not shuddering anymore at 2.5-3k - but still not maintaining peak boost. The code cross references to ford eco-boost motors as a "stuck" wastegate. For frame of reference, can anyone verify which side each line goes (one is from the diverter valve, the other seems to go post intercooler)? One's vac, the other's out. What sucks more is I didn't have a CEL before I replaced this part. I can delete the code, but that doesn't exactly help me here.
Side note/rant...
It's disappointing that this forum is extremely active (all parts of it, not just this thread) but has no explicit information. Just a bunch of people ranting "go to the dealer" on every trouble thread. That's not what these boards are for; they're for us to work together to not go to the dealer.
Best regards, but if you tell me to go to the dealer I think you can imagine how I feel.
I had the same symptoms and replaced the part myself, now I have a CEL that reads P25B4 - which is "unknown" from any scanner i've used and the dealer said the same thing when I asked them to look it up. Boost is dead from 2k-2.5k, even reducing rpm's if i'm WOT, but is atleast not shuddering anymore at 2.5-3k - but still not maintaining peak boost. The code cross references to ford eco-boost motors as a "stuck" wastegate. For frame of reference, can anyone verify which side each line goes (one is from the diverter valve, the other seems to go post intercooler)? One's vac, the other's out. What sucks more is I didn't have a CEL before I replaced this part. I can delete the code, but that doesn't exactly help me here.
Side note/rant...
It's disappointing that this forum is extremely active (all parts of it, not just this thread) but has no explicit information. Just a bunch of people ranting "go to the dealer" on every trouble thread. That's not what these boards are for; they're for us to work together to not go to the dealer.
Best regards, but if you tell me to go to the dealer I think you can imagine how I feel.
Last edited by Gnarlison; 01-17-20 at 01:16 PM.
#30
According to that guy, the insulated line goes on the outside of the valve, the other on the inside. I don't know first hand, as I have not changed this part, don't have issues with it although I'm at 75k (Km). But I would trust this guy
Best of luck
Last edited by BobbyGee; 01-18-20 at 04:27 AM.