Subwoofer Install DIY on Factory non-ML Amp. 2016 IS200t -- too easy.
#62
#63
i am in the middle of doing an install. I have a 2017 IS350 FSport with ML sound.
Based on what i'm hearing, tapping into the wrong wire will result in reduced bass when the volume is above a certain level.
You seemed to have found the solution. Which speaker wire do i tap into? Do i tap into the bigger harness (the one that doesn't have the white REMOTE wire and the 2 black shielded wire) ? which wires in the bigger harness do i tap into? My amp has speaker level input. If i use the subwoofer speaker and plug it in, will that work?
#64
Tap into the wires on the large harness. The LG/W/BE/P wires (Light green, White, Beige, Pink) carry the signal to the rear speakers. Run wires from the taps to the high level input.
I have had this setup without any issue whatsoever. In fact, I had to reread the posts because I have not made a single adjustment or chased any gremlins. The amp remote **** is perfect and I rarely adjust the bass on the system. Just use that **** to lower the bass or to make it real loud and bump Akinele's "Put it in Your Mouth" when you pick your kids up from school. That's what I've done for 2 years. lol
I stared at my own post for a long time. Took me a minute to reprogram my brain. I've been neck deep in the mechanical world of VW 1600 rebuilds. I miss working on a car that tells you exactly what's wrong with her.
I have had this setup without any issue whatsoever. In fact, I had to reread the posts because I have not made a single adjustment or chased any gremlins. The amp remote **** is perfect and I rarely adjust the bass on the system. Just use that **** to lower the bass or to make it real loud and bump Akinele's "Put it in Your Mouth" when you pick your kids up from school. That's what I've done for 2 years. lol
I stared at my own post for a long time. Took me a minute to reprogram my brain. I've been neck deep in the mechanical world of VW 1600 rebuilds. I miss working on a car that tells you exactly what's wrong with her.
#65
Tap into the wires on the large harness. The LG/W/BE/P wires (Light green, White, Beige, Pink) carry the signal to the rear speakers. Run wires from the taps to the high level input.
I have had this setup without any issue whatsoever. In fact, I had to reread the posts because I have not made a single adjustment or chased any gremlins. The amp remote **** is perfect and I rarely adjust the bass on the system. Just use that **** to lower the bass or to make it real loud and bump Akinele's "Put it in Your Mouth" when you pick your kids up from school. That's what I've done for 2 years. lol
I stared at my own post for a long time. Took me a minute to reprogram my brain. I've been neck deep in the mechanical world of VW 1600 rebuilds. I miss working on a car that tells you exactly what's wrong with her.
I have had this setup without any issue whatsoever. In fact, I had to reread the posts because I have not made a single adjustment or chased any gremlins. The amp remote **** is perfect and I rarely adjust the bass on the system. Just use that **** to lower the bass or to make it real loud and bump Akinele's "Put it in Your Mouth" when you pick your kids up from school. That's what I've done for 2 years. lol
I stared at my own post for a long time. Took me a minute to reprogram my brain. I've been neck deep in the mechanical world of VW 1600 rebuilds. I miss working on a car that tells you exactly what's wrong with her.
#67
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I'm not sure if the later 3IS has ANC but if it does, it can likely be turned off in Carista w/ paid subscription. That's how I did it for my 2021 ES
#68
#69
Intermediate
What kind of noise is it? Is it a humming noise? It could be a ground loop from a bad ground seeing how it could be RPM dependent. Where did you ground it, have a picture?
Make sure when you set your gains on your amp, you have the bass or subwoofer setting on 0 to start. Maybe even at - 3 and then turn it to flat when you want it to bump more.
Set low pass to about 80Hz.
Make sure when you set your gains on your amp, you have the bass or subwoofer setting on 0 to start. Maybe even at - 3 and then turn it to flat when you want it to bump more.
Set low pass to about 80Hz.
#70
So I installed my sub using the same wires suggested here, it’s not really hitting hard at all. I can’t even tell the difference with the sub on and off. I can see the sub’s woofer is moving in and out but it’s not hitting hard at all
#72
Okay, so I would like to update eveyrone and state the following for anyone with a ML system.
if u are doing a sub upgrade, u can’t follow the wires it said to tap into in the orignsl post. The pinout for ML system is different.
u need to tap into PIN 6 And 21. which is a gray and blue wire. Gray wire is positive and blue is negative.
if u are issuing line out converter or plugging directly into ur high level speaker input, just tap into those two wires.
few other notes, those tapped wires already crossed over at 80hz so on ur amp, just set to 80 and U’re good. On my amp, I barely turned up my gain, it’s like 15%. Also, if u need more bass, u can simply increase the bass level from the sound setting of the car. It will increase the voltage sent to the sub. Also there is no bass roll off issue as u increase the volume. It plays loud all the way to max volume
with the ML and an aftermarket sub, the sound is insane now. My ears r hurting atm. I’m running a alpine MRV M500 amp (500 rms) with an alpine SW12D4 (600rms) sub.
if u are doing a sub upgrade, u can’t follow the wires it said to tap into in the orignsl post. The pinout for ML system is different.
u need to tap into PIN 6 And 21. which is a gray and blue wire. Gray wire is positive and blue is negative.
if u are issuing line out converter or plugging directly into ur high level speaker input, just tap into those two wires.
few other notes, those tapped wires already crossed over at 80hz so on ur amp, just set to 80 and U’re good. On my amp, I barely turned up my gain, it’s like 15%. Also, if u need more bass, u can simply increase the bass level from the sound setting of the car. It will increase the voltage sent to the sub. Also there is no bass roll off issue as u increase the volume. It plays loud all the way to max volume
with the ML and an aftermarket sub, the sound is insane now. My ears r hurting atm. I’m running a alpine MRV M500 amp (500 rms) with an alpine SW12D4 (600rms) sub.
Last edited by Ruzifan; 10-12-21 at 11:03 AM.
#73
Driver School Candidate
Where can I find wiring diagrams like the ones you have?
Hey all,
First off, big ups to E46T for this write up. Super thorough and I used his method and placement. I used all the same hardware as this post (thanks again E46CT). I made one significant modification on my install.
The signal wires from the stock amp to the aftermarket amp in the original post are speaker output wires. The input wires (on a 2015 IS) are within the shielded cable on the small harness. The recommended Rockford amp has a low level input (RCA input) for preamp signals AND a high level input which is a 4 wire harness.
As you can see from the diagram below the wires used to run the signal are actually speaker output wires and should be connected to the High Level input which is simply a harness with wires and much easier to work with. No need to splice RCAs or buy a kit to convert to bare wires. The wires are small and go under carpet trunk panels without any issues.
I also tapped the speaker wire for the right rears above above the stock loom tubing so I didn't have to cram it all right next to the harness.
Sounds perfect through all volumes and speeds. I just finished and once cleaned up I will post some pics. So this may be the solution to those experiencing issues at higher volumes.
I could have used about 2 more feet of power cable to make it super clean so maybe pick up a couple of feet.
Wires used in original post. Use these but use High Level harness
This is the small harness. Only use the small white wire that is NOT shielded in black for remote power.
First off, big ups to E46T for this write up. Super thorough and I used his method and placement. I used all the same hardware as this post (thanks again E46CT). I made one significant modification on my install.
The signal wires from the stock amp to the aftermarket amp in the original post are speaker output wires. The input wires (on a 2015 IS) are within the shielded cable on the small harness. The recommended Rockford amp has a low level input (RCA input) for preamp signals AND a high level input which is a 4 wire harness.
As you can see from the diagram below the wires used to run the signal are actually speaker output wires and should be connected to the High Level input which is simply a harness with wires and much easier to work with. No need to splice RCAs or buy a kit to convert to bare wires. The wires are small and go under carpet trunk panels without any issues.
I also tapped the speaker wire for the right rears above above the stock loom tubing so I didn't have to cram it all right next to the harness.
Sounds perfect through all volumes and speeds. I just finished and once cleaned up I will post some pics. So this may be the solution to those experiencing issues at higher volumes.
I could have used about 2 more feet of power cable to make it super clean so maybe pick up a couple of feet.
Wires used in original post. Use these but use High Level harness
This is the small harness. Only use the small white wire that is NOT shielded in black for remote power.
#75
I need help 2015 is 250 f sport
I’m trying to install a Rockford P300-12 powered sub and am stuck on this step. The small harness in my 2016 200t F-Sport looks different than what I’m reading:
What do I tap into for the remote turn-on?? Can it be figured out without a volt meter?
This is my first time doing this so I have no idea how to troubleshoot if it’s not in the guide.