Lexus 3IS IS200t IS350 F-Sport Front Brake Pad DIY - $60 and 30 minutes or less!
#17
Pole Position
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I just re-read the thread title, and I think 30min is a tad too short. The best practices when it comes to doing brakes is to clean all the shims (and then put some brake lube of course) and that top anti rattle clip with either a bench grinder or sandpaper/brake cleaner, and to remove the caliper so you can sand and clean off the inside surfaces where the sides of the brake pads slide against when installing/removing. When I installed my pads, I did just that, then painted on a thin layer of brake lube on the sides of the pad backing before fitting them in so they can move in/out easier when applying and releasing the brakes.
#19
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Anybody on here experiencing "pad crack/slap" when switching from forward to reverse, or vice versa?
I am and I can't find a fix for it. Even the dealer said it was normal. :/
I am and I can't find a fix for it. Even the dealer said it was normal. :/
#20
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
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Just study my pics closely to see how they go on. IIRC, they really are molded to the pad so its hard to screw it up.
As far as taking longer and cleaning everything up-- maybe next time around. My car is "new" and since its the first pad change at 10k, I didn't see it as necessary--and it wasn't.
Since many cars can go 5 years/60k on a set of pads without incident, the car sees no difference to a new set of pads at 10k. To the car, it's just keeping on driving. It doesn't know any different.
My pads are noiseless--funny to say because my factory (1st set) of pads actually made noise at times--even two weeks after I bought the car! haha! Magic touch?
As far as taking longer and cleaning everything up-- maybe next time around. My car is "new" and since its the first pad change at 10k, I didn't see it as necessary--and it wasn't.
Since many cars can go 5 years/60k on a set of pads without incident, the car sees no difference to a new set of pads at 10k. To the car, it's just keeping on driving. It doesn't know any different.
My pads are noiseless--funny to say because my factory (1st set) of pads actually made noise at times--even two weeks after I bought the car! haha! Magic touch?
#21
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
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Just study my pics closely to see how they go on. IIRC, they really are molded to the pad so its hard to screw it up.
As far as taking longer and cleaning everything up-- maybe next time around. My car is "new" and since its the first pad change at 10k, I didn't see it as necessary--and it wasn't.
Since many cars can go 5 years/60k on a set of pads without incident, the car sees no difference to a new set of pads at 10k. To the car, it's just keeping on driving. It doesn't know any different.
My pads are noiseless--funny to say because my factory (1st set) of pads actually made noise at times--even two weeks after I bought the car! haha! Magic touch?
As far as taking longer and cleaning everything up-- maybe next time around. My car is "new" and since its the first pad change at 10k, I didn't see it as necessary--and it wasn't.
Since many cars can go 5 years/60k on a set of pads without incident, the car sees no difference to a new set of pads at 10k. To the car, it's just keeping on driving. It doesn't know any different.
My pads are noiseless--funny to say because my factory (1st set) of pads actually made noise at times--even two weeks after I bought the car! haha! Magic touch?
Last edited by LatinLS430; 08-29-17 at 03:54 PM.
#24
Lexus Test Driver
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I don't have a 350, but I believe it's 2 shims per pad...a black inner one with a stainless one on top...for each pad.
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LatinLS430 (08-29-17)
#25
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I say go to the dealer and they should sell them as a kit of 6 pieces.
I just re-read the thread title, and I think 30min is a tad too short. The best practices when it comes to doing brakes is to clean all the shims (and then put some brake lube of course) and that top anti rattle clip with either a bench grinder or sandpaper/brake cleaner, and to remove the caliper so you can sand and clean off the inside surfaces where the sides of the brake pads slide against when installing/removing. When I installed my pads, I did just that, then painted on a thin layer of brake lube on the sides of the pad backing before fitting them in so they can move in/out easier when applying and releasing the brakes.
I just re-read the thread title, and I think 30min is a tad too short. The best practices when it comes to doing brakes is to clean all the shims (and then put some brake lube of course) and that top anti rattle clip with either a bench grinder or sandpaper/brake cleaner, and to remove the caliper so you can sand and clean off the inside surfaces where the sides of the brake pads slide against when installing/removing. When I installed my pads, I did just that, then painted on a thin layer of brake lube on the sides of the pad backing before fitting them in so they can move in/out easier when applying and releasing the brakes.
For the 350, personally, I wouldn't remove the caliper to clean it, but the 250 you would have to...but I would clean both styles of calipers nonetheless.
And yes, the engineers know better, so they will tell you that this isn't necessary. LOL!!! The car will never know the difference...shhhh!
#26
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My 17 is300 has 2 shims
#28
#29
Lexus Test Driver
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As said, my brand new California Lexus still had pristine brake hardware. I did not see any need to clean the calipers or associated hardware on my personal car. Your car may vary. My pads needed changing that's all. Old pads out, new pads in. My brakes are noise and trouble free.
Manufacturers instruct any techs working on the car to clean brakes when serviced as general practice. Doesn't mean it will always be technically necessary, but just a "sound" practice from a servicing point of view to do it all the time as there's no good reason not to and claim payouts for return visits will be minimized.
In effect, changing out to new pads without "cleaning" is actually cleaner than the old pads due to having brand new clean guides on the pads to slide within the caliper. If it didn't squeal due to being "dirty" before, it certainly won't squeal after with new cleaner pads. In short, more emphasis on cleaning when you have problems/squealing before pad change.
And if we want to get on the subject on how to properly clean brake hardware, we can go there too.![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I just chose not to do it this time around.
Manufacturers instruct any techs working on the car to clean brakes when serviced as general practice. Doesn't mean it will always be technically necessary, but just a "sound" practice from a servicing point of view to do it all the time as there's no good reason not to and claim payouts for return visits will be minimized.
In effect, changing out to new pads without "cleaning" is actually cleaner than the old pads due to having brand new clean guides on the pads to slide within the caliper. If it didn't squeal due to being "dirty" before, it certainly won't squeal after with new cleaner pads. In short, more emphasis on cleaning when you have problems/squealing before pad change.
And if we want to get on the subject on how to properly clean brake hardware, we can go there too.
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I just chose not to do it this time around.
#30
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
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Also on shims, if you just have one pair, just install it. I just installed whatever was on my old pads onto the new pads.
Most of what shims do is reduce the chances of high-frequency vibration, and thus noise. More shims just means more mass to absorb vibrations. You may be fine with one pair per pad vs. two pairs, certainly it's not an emergency.
Most of what shims do is reduce the chances of high-frequency vibration, and thus noise. More shims just means more mass to absorb vibrations. You may be fine with one pair per pad vs. two pairs, certainly it's not an emergency.
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LatinLS430 (08-30-17)