Lexus 3IS IS200t IS350 F-Sport Front Brake Pad DIY - $60 and 30 minutes or less!
#47
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In my experience, the noise is likely caused by one of two things:
- I thin line of rust on the inner and outer edge of the rotor; or
- The semi metallic compound of the pad
If the rust has just started to wear into the edges of the pad, this is likely your noise.
Sanding down the rusty edge so that the rust and pad are not contacting will stop the noise temporarily. At that time you have confirmed that is the noise, and you can either machine the rotors, or replace the rotors.
Or just wait til the noise comes back and sand the rotor again.
If you don't have factory pads, then if the pads are semi metallic, it may just be normal for that pad.
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LatinLS430 (09-01-17)
#48
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Honestly I didn't think it would, but at least you can scratch that off the list.
In my experience, the noise is likely caused by one of two things:
If the rust has just started to wear into the edges of the pad, this is likely your noise.
Sanding down the rusty edge so that the rust and pad are not contacting will stop the noise temporarily. At that time you have confirmed that is the noise, and you can either machine the rotors, or replace the rotors.
Or just wait til the noise comes back and sand the rotor again.
If you don't have factory pads, then if the pads are semi metallic, it may just be normal for that pad.
In my experience, the noise is likely caused by one of two things:
- I thin line of rust on the inner and outer edge of the rotor; or
- The semi metallic compound of the pad
If the rust has just started to wear into the edges of the pad, this is likely your noise.
Sanding down the rusty edge so that the rust and pad are not contacting will stop the noise temporarily. At that time you have confirmed that is the noise, and you can either machine the rotors, or replace the rotors.
Or just wait til the noise comes back and sand the rotor again.
If you don't have factory pads, then if the pads are semi metallic, it may just be normal for that pad.
I had Centric pads and had no noises. I went back to OEM pads. I had my stock 14" rotors resurfaced at a local machine shop. I don't believe my rotors had been resurfaced before. So maybe it's the rotors that need replacing.
#49
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How long ago were they resurfaced?
#51
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Can you sneak a pic of the either rotor through the rim, or if you have the wheel off again for whatever?
You shouldn't have an issue after they were resurfaced, but that's assuming they were resurfaced properly.
A pic of the rotor might help to determine if the rotor is ok or not.
I realize it would only be one side of the rotor, but both sides are cut at the same time.
So if one side is screwed up, then likely both sides are screwed up.
Pay close attention to the very edge of the rotor.
#52
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Damn! You should have been good to go!
Can you sneak a pic of the either rotor through the rim, or if you have the wheel off again for whatever?
You shouldn't have an issue after they were resurfaced, but that's assuming they were resurfaced properly.
A pic of the rotor might help to determine if the rotor is ok or not.
I realize it would only be one side of the rotor, but both sides are cut at the same time.
So if one side is screwed up, then likely both sides are screwed up.
Pay close attention to the very edge of the rotor.
Can you sneak a pic of the either rotor through the rim, or if you have the wheel off again for whatever?
You shouldn't have an issue after they were resurfaced, but that's assuming they were resurfaced properly.
A pic of the rotor might help to determine if the rotor is ok or not.
I realize it would only be one side of the rotor, but both sides are cut at the same time.
So if one side is screwed up, then likely both sides are screwed up.
Pay close attention to the very edge of the rotor.
#53
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Is there lube on the edge of the pads where it slides into the caliper? Like a Copperlube or something similar.
Is there lube between the pad and first shim, and first shim and second shim?
I think in the shim bag they give you a small pack of grey lube...almost like graphite. It's good, but I wish they gave you more.
#54
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Well..the rotors look good from here. Unless the surface felt weird, then I would say they machined them well.
Is there lube on the edge of the pads where it slides into the caliper? Like a Copperlube or something similar.
Is there lube between the pad and first shim, and first shim and second shim?
I think in the shim bag they give you a small pack of grey lube...almost like graphite. It's good, but I wish they gave you more.
Is there lube on the edge of the pads where it slides into the caliper? Like a Copperlube or something similar.
Is there lube between the pad and first shim, and first shim and second shim?
I think in the shim bag they give you a small pack of grey lube...almost like graphite. It's good, but I wish they gave you more.
I used some black lube that came with the pads on the shims that would face the caliper pistons. Nothing in between both shims.
#55
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Typically i paint on a very (very) thin layer, almost to the edge of the backing plate of the pad, then put the first shim on, then I repeat the thin layer on the shim and then put the next shim on.
Finally I put a very thin layer on the edge of the pad that will contact the caliper, and a very thin layer on the caliper where it will contact the pad.
Never put it on the outside of the shim when the pistons are, as the lube can cause the boots to swell if it gets on them...assuming that the lube is petroleum based. And really there is no need to have lube on that surface anyways.
After gently and slowly sliding the pads into the caliper, wipe of any excess that may accumulate. The goal is that none of the lube get on the rotor or pad friction surface.
I would also lube the pad pin where it goes through each hole.
No guarantees, but I think that will stop your noise.
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Lex_Giorgio (09-08-17)
#56
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I would highly recommend getting some Copperlube and applying to the edge of the pad where it slides into the caliper, and between all the shims, and between the first shim and pad.
Typically i paint on a very (very) thin layer, almost to the edge of the backing plate of the pad, then put the first shim on, then I repeat the thin layer on the shim and then put the next shim on.
Finally I put a very thin layer on the edge of the pad that will contact the caliper, and a very thin layer on the caliper where it will contact the pad.
Never put it on the outside of the shim when the pistons are, as the lube can cause the boots to swell if it gets on them...assuming that the lube is petroleum based. And really there is no need to have lube on that surface anyways.
After gently and slowly sliding the pads into the caliper, wipe of any excess that may accumulate. The goal is that none of the lube get on the rotor or pad friction surface.
I would also lube the pad pin where it goes through each hole.
No guarantees, but I think that will stop your noise.
Typically i paint on a very (very) thin layer, almost to the edge of the backing plate of the pad, then put the first shim on, then I repeat the thin layer on the shim and then put the next shim on.
Finally I put a very thin layer on the edge of the pad that will contact the caliper, and a very thin layer on the caliper where it will contact the pad.
Never put it on the outside of the shim when the pistons are, as the lube can cause the boots to swell if it gets on them...assuming that the lube is petroleum based. And really there is no need to have lube on that surface anyways.
After gently and slowly sliding the pads into the caliper, wipe of any excess that may accumulate. The goal is that none of the lube get on the rotor or pad friction surface.
I would also lube the pad pin where it goes through each hole.
No guarantees, but I think that will stop your noise.
#57
My new pads came with just one shim I read earlier that whatever came on the pad is all you need true?
#59
#60
Installed the new pads after my 100+ mile commute I'll have an update on the dust issue .....