If you read the post, no one ever stated or wrote that "Lexus is a manufactur of pads". "Genuine Parts" doesn't necessary imply "manufactured by".

"The moral of the story" is ALWAYS pair pads & rotors that are advised & recommended to be paired ~ don't just mix & match for the hell of it, or price, or because it sounds cool.

What's "stupid" is ending up with your issue, which is again a possibility, or similar, going with your new setup.

 

Does anyone know if the 00465-30450 and 00465-30510s work with the OEM Shims on an 2017 IS200T F Sport? I'm looking for something with less dust and more longevity than the 30500s that came on my car so hoping someone can help me out. Also does anyone know what the difference between those two pads and/or have a recommendation between them?

Thanks,

 

Skotty, what pads are you referring to? If you want less dust and more longevity, get the blue lexus pads. that simple.

as far as that other person up there, have no idea what he's referring to. if he's implying noise i experienced with the aftermarket rotors, they should know i was in a pinch on a particular weekend and couldn't get the rotors i wanted on time. Has nothing to do with being "stupid" but testing products out and reporting back to the community. bought meyles and all is well now.

The comprehension isn't there but i guess that's what happens when you deal with an upper case/lower case "hAcKeR" style user name. No mas.

 

And no you can mix and match brands between rotors and pads. As long as either/or is from a reputable company. That is not up for debate whatsoever.

 

Hi E46 - i was referring to if the low dust pads work with the OEM shims that came with the 17 F Sport. I would need to order new shims with those if that wasn't the case.

 

i want to thank E46CT for this thread.i did my front brakes and oil change in less then one hour.......Hell YES!
this was by far the easiest brake job i have ever done.with the proper tool and the correct brake pads this project was a breeze....
thanks again....
ps i would like to add.that my IS 200t had 21k on the clock before i changed my pads.the ware indicator was just about to touch the rotors.i might have had a week left on them before it started to touch.i went with the Akebono ACT1118 ProAct Ultra premium ceramic brake pads.these pads work GREAT and very little drop off from the Fsport pads.the only thing i did notice was they don't have the initial hard bite as the Fsport pads do.that is just fine with me as this car is my wife's DD and i am hoping that will give us longer life on the pads.i know this is a sports car but 10-25k plus on a set of pads for a DD driver is crazy.............

 

 

About to do mine next week. Didn't see anything regarding brake fluid -- either in taking the top off the reservoir to release pressure, to remove any in case of overflow, or to bleed and refill afterwards?

 

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you can open the reservoir cap to release pressure.
shouldn't need to bleed unless you're detaching the brake lines.

 

Thanks, and presumably as long as it isn't too full it shouldn't overflow? Always figured bleeding was a standard procedure during brake work, but is it only also really for when changing out the fluid, or maybe if the fluid has become contaminated or reservoir run too low or dry? Going to have it changed out at next service anyway.

 

Brake fluid only needs to be bled when air enters the system.
So that would encompass if you remove/disconnect a line or remove all the fluid in the reservoir (as when flushing/replacing the fluid or when it runs low because the system is open somewhere)
It's always a good idea to replace the fluid every couple years, but that can be dependent on climate and vehicle usage (or non-usage).

 

Yes it's good to remove the pad when doing a swap. I believe there's a diaphragm that extends down as the pads wear that just gets reversed as you push the piston back so it shouldn't be the end of the world if you forget. The better reason for removing the cap is to ensure your level is good (usually better on an older car with possibly leaky old lines etc)

 

If the wear indicators starts screeching... do the rotors then need to be serviced? Or could I just get away with doing the pad slap?

 

Depends on how long it was screeching for, however once they get down to that point most of time you’ll need to replace the rotors

 

They just started yesterday