OEM Audio System Install/Review
#31
Driver School Candidate
Glad you are happy with it. I tuned mine about the same. Bass boost all the way down, gain almost all the way down, crossover as low as it goes, more mids and highs on the radio settings and lower bass. You have any rattles yet? Did you tap into the factory amp feeds for signal? If the weather cooperates, I'm adding all of my sound deadening in the trunk this weekend. Should block out a lot of road noise, and also clean up the bass and force more of it into the cabin. I've used a few different "loaded" subs (bazooka, Infinity Basslink, and the Fosgate). The Fosgate is definitely the BEST bang for the buck. I've had mine now for 8 years in 3 different cars (in Texas heat), and this thing still bumps with no problems.
No real rattles yet. I stood outside of the car yesterday after adjusting the bass levels and putting the music at a volume I’d normally listen and was surprised that there were zero rattles from the trunk. I’ll probably still Dynamat it for good measure.
Glad and to hear this sub has lasted you so long, especially in the Texas summers !
#32
I've actually been eyeing the RF P300-12. The dimensions look like it would fit perfectly in the trunk against the seat.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
Last edited by MacroZed; 10-25-18 at 01:53 PM.
#33
I ended up getting a shop to install it because I wasn’t going to have time until next week to do it and I was anxious to get it working ASAP. I haven’t inspected how they wired it yet, but I suspect they did tap the amp.
No real rattles yet. I stood outside of the car yesterday after adjusting the bass levels and putting the music at a volume I’d normally listen and was surprised that there were zero rattles from the trunk. I’ll probably still Dynamat it for good measure.
Glad and to hear this sub has lasted you so long, especially in the Texas summers !
No real rattles yet. I stood outside of the car yesterday after adjusting the bass levels and putting the music at a volume I’d normally listen and was surprised that there were zero rattles from the trunk. I’ll probably still Dynamat it for good measure.
Glad and to hear this sub has lasted you so long, especially in the Texas summers !
I've actually been eyeing the RF P300-12. The dimensions look like it would fit perfectly in the trunk against the seat.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
#34
Originally Posted by EvilJoker
Mine is in the trunk. I didnt intend on keeping it accessible. I pulled it up front long enough to get the system fully tuned (which took about an hour), then tucked it in between the seat and the box. I havent tried standing it up against the seat, so not sure if that would work, but if it will fit, and you can find a way to keep it upright, that would open up a good amount of usable space in the trunk.
I do like how I can completely unplug the thing and remove it if I need to.
Did you leave the stock sub connected also? Or no?
#35
I did because it is still good for your mids. I may try standing my sub upright.
#36
Driver School Candidate
I've actually been eyeing the RF P300-12. The dimensions look like it would fit perfectly in the trunk against the seat.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
#37
Driver School Candidate
Mine is standing straight up behind the seat. I'm having to take it easy around corners right now though until I have time to secure it, but so far it hasn't fallen over or been a problem.
#38
Does that volume **** have the rj25 connector on it? Can i purchase it separeately
#39
No, it's a headphone jack type connector.
#40
Driver School Candidate
I've actually been eyeing the RF P300-12. The dimensions look like it would fit perfectly in the trunk against the seat.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
This thread pushed me over the edge. I just ordered one from Amazon too.
BTW, where did you guys install the remote ****? I'd like to put it where it's easily accessible, but not janky looking.
The following users liked this post:
MacroZed (10-26-18)
#41
That looks decent.
I *may* try to get crafty and put the unit behind one of the blanks on the left side, if the bass controller has a shaft that can be extended. I don't get my Amazon order until tomorrow, so I don't know if that will be possible yet.
I *may* try to get crafty and put the unit behind one of the blanks on the left side, if the bass controller has a shaft that can be extended. I don't get my Amazon order until tomorrow, so I don't know if that will be possible yet.
#42
Driver School Candidate
Let me know how that goes if you try it. I’m fine with the remote where it is, but I wouldn’t mind a more OEM look.
#43
Lead Lap
My white 2014 IS 250 was the original test mule for the OEM Audio+ upgrade and that was a non-ML car (there may still be a photo of the car in their lobby). My 2016 was one of two IS350 test mules for the system and my 350 is an ML car. I believe the other owner's 350 is an ML car as well. They system sounds fantastic. I'm sure it drives the OEM guys a bit nuts that I mostly still listen to Sirius/XM radio. They don't like audio compression. I recommend the system. It is noticeably crisper and cleaner than just the ML audio system.
#44
Could always mount it inside the console. I mean, how often are you seriously going to mess with it once tuned? Plus, "window shoppers" wont be able to see anything.
#45
Just completed the RF P300-12 sub install. Took my time, and used an 8 ga. install kit and ran all the wires through plastic conduits.
The thing sounds pretty good for a $200 set-up. The car definitely sounds a hell of a lot better.
I did, as I previously mentioned, mount the remote sub **** in the dash blank on the left side of the driver's dash.
Pics:
The board removed from the housing. I just used a pick tool to scrape away the glue that they used to keep it in place. I'll also use the same kind of stuff to mount it to the blank.
Back side of the circuit board. Super simple.
The blank and the circuit board trimmed. Be careful not to trim the blank too much. The sections that you see that I left after trimming is critical for the blank to keep its structural integrity.
I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to secure the circuit board to the dash blank. It's really the only way to get it to stay. Whatever size the potentiometer nut is, I didn't have one, and I know that it uses a really weird size, so screw that (a pun!).
Here it is, in the dash. It doesn't look centered, but it is.
It wasn't a hard job, but I did take my time trimming the blank and checking fit often.
The thing sounds pretty good for a $200 set-up. The car definitely sounds a hell of a lot better.
I did, as I previously mentioned, mount the remote sub **** in the dash blank on the left side of the driver's dash.
Pics:
The board removed from the housing. I just used a pick tool to scrape away the glue that they used to keep it in place. I'll also use the same kind of stuff to mount it to the blank.
Back side of the circuit board. Super simple.
The blank and the circuit board trimmed. Be careful not to trim the blank too much. The sections that you see that I left after trimming is critical for the blank to keep its structural integrity.
I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to secure the circuit board to the dash blank. It's really the only way to get it to stay. Whatever size the potentiometer nut is, I didn't have one, and I know that it uses a really weird size, so screw that (a pun!).
Here it is, in the dash. It doesn't look centered, but it is.
It wasn't a hard job, but I did take my time trimming the blank and checking fit often.
The following 2 users liked this post by MacroZed:
Bacon (10-31-18),
Lex_Giorgio (01-19-24)