3IS Simple/"Dumb" Questions Thread - Ask away and get answers!
#601
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https://www.carid.com/carbon-creatio...pn-112999.html
Had a random question and wasn't sure where to ask. How difficult an install is this on my IS 350 f sport? Does it accommodate quad tip exhausts that fit 2017+ IS models?
Had a random question and wasn't sure where to ask. How difficult an install is this on my IS 350 f sport? Does it accommodate quad tip exhausts that fit 2017+ IS models?
The only limitation on exhaust fitment on the 2014-2016 vs the 2017+ is the shape of the diffuser opening.
Physically any catback exhaust made for a 3IS will bolt to any 3IS...the only interference would be with the diffuser.
Since you are changing the diffuser, you shouldn't have an issue. If the exhaust isn't fitting perfectly centered in the diffuser, an exhaust shop can adjust it for you.
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Farizzl3 (01-28-20)
#602
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https://www.carid.com/carbon-creatio...pn-112999.html
Had a random question and wasn't sure where to ask. How difficult an install is this on my IS 350 f sport? Does it accommodate quad tip exhausts that fit 2017+ IS models?
Had a random question and wasn't sure where to ask. How difficult an install is this on my IS 350 f sport? Does it accommodate quad tip exhausts that fit 2017+ IS models?
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Farizzl3 (01-29-20)
#603
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PS: I also have an atomic silver IS and have been following your build thread for inspiration!
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AtomicAWD (01-29-20)
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Italian tuneup is a slang automotive term for attempting to restore engine performance by driving a car at high engine speed (RPM) and load.
The term originated from Italian mechanics in the 1950s using this practice to burn off carbon deposits from the spark plugs of sports cars.
However, modern fuel injection and ignition systems have rendered Italian tuneups obsolete.
The practice is sometimes used prior to emissions testing, particularly for diesel engines.
I wouldn't agree with it being obsolete, carbon deposits still exist, so any way of reasonably removing them is still useful.
For the most part the definition above is accurate...I would put more emphasis on high load rather than high speed.
Revving a vehicle to red line in Park/Neutral only does one thing...shorten the life of your engine.
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Jazzrock (01-29-20)
#607
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Wikipedia:
Italian tuneup is a slang automotive term for attempting to restore engine performance by driving a car at high engine speed (RPM) and load.
The term originated from Italian mechanics in the 1950s using this practice to burn off carbon deposits from the spark plugs of sports cars.
However, modern fuel injection and ignition systems have rendered Italian tuneups obsolete.
The practice is sometimes used prior to emissions testing, particularly for diesel engines.
I wouldn't agree with it being obsolete, carbon deposits still exist, so any way of reasonably removing them is still useful.
For the most part the definition above is accurate...I would put more emphasis on high load rather than high speed.
Revving a vehicle to red line in Park/Neutral only does one thing...shorten the life of your engine.
Italian tuneup is a slang automotive term for attempting to restore engine performance by driving a car at high engine speed (RPM) and load.
The term originated from Italian mechanics in the 1950s using this practice to burn off carbon deposits from the spark plugs of sports cars.
However, modern fuel injection and ignition systems have rendered Italian tuneups obsolete.
The practice is sometimes used prior to emissions testing, particularly for diesel engines.
I wouldn't agree with it being obsolete, carbon deposits still exist, so any way of reasonably removing them is still useful.
For the most part the definition above is accurate...I would put more emphasis on high load rather than high speed.
Revving a vehicle to red line in Park/Neutral only does one thing...shorten the life of your engine.
#608
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Never heard this before. This has been what's missing from my vehicle life....good ol' Itslian tune up lol.
I've had some older high mileage cars i guess I drove high rpms hard before the risky smog inspections here in strict California. Maybe the Italian tuneup is 98% useless.
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s3v3n (01-30-20)
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Even if you mainly shifted it to try and maintain red line in any gear, the ECU would just upshift anyways.
That is why I put the emphasis on load rather than speed...with high load will inevitably come high speed, but not necessarily the reverse.
When you rev an engine in Park/Neutral there is no load on the engine...so all that is occurring is the parts spinning at a high rate of speed for no reason.
Since the vehicle is stationary there is no forced air coming through the intake as when it is moving, and the catalytic converter will never reach optimum temps to burn off any deposits that are trapped within it.
If you've ever seen a printout from a dyno, no car ever makes max power at red line...in fact, most cars will tend to start to lose power and torque before red line.
While engines are built to be durable, they are not meant to be spun for a consistently long time at maximum rpm...that's when they tend to grenade.
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s3v3n (01-30-20)
#610
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First it would be challenging to maintain red line at highway speed as presumably you would be in top gear (6 or 8 depending on AWD or RWD) and going about 3 times the speed limit.
Even if you mainly shifted it to try and maintain red line in any gear, the ECU would just upshift anyways.
That is why I put the emphasis on load rather than speed...with high load will inevitably come high speed, but not necessarily the reverse.
When you rev an engine in Park/Neutral there is no load on the engine...so all that is occurring is the parts spinning at a high rate of speed for no reason.
Since the vehicle is stationary there is no forced air coming through the intake as when it is moving, and the catalytic converter will never reach optimum temps to burn off any deposits that are trapped within it.
If you've ever seen a printout from a dyno, no car ever makes max power at red line...in fact, most cars will tend to start to lose power and torque before red line.
While engines are built to be durable, they are not meant to be spun for a consistently long time at maximum rpm...that's when they tend to grenade.
Even if you mainly shifted it to try and maintain red line in any gear, the ECU would just upshift anyways.
That is why I put the emphasis on load rather than speed...with high load will inevitably come high speed, but not necessarily the reverse.
When you rev an engine in Park/Neutral there is no load on the engine...so all that is occurring is the parts spinning at a high rate of speed for no reason.
Since the vehicle is stationary there is no forced air coming through the intake as when it is moving, and the catalytic converter will never reach optimum temps to burn off any deposits that are trapped within it.
If you've ever seen a printout from a dyno, no car ever makes max power at red line...in fact, most cars will tend to start to lose power and torque before red line.
While engines are built to be durable, they are not meant to be spun for a consistently long time at maximum rpm...that's when they tend to grenade.
Btw, I'm talking "myth" here.
#611
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OP is asking what an Italian tune-up is. In layman's terms, the closest thing you can do legally to an Italian tune-up is to go wide-open throttle, allowing the car to rev to redline, through first and second gear, while accelerating on an on-ramp to a highway or something of that nature.
The reason it's different from revving in neutral is that in neutral, there's nothing stopping the engine from rotating other than its own inertia, meaning there's no notable heat buildup. You need to heat the engine to have the "Italian tune-up" work. By putting the engine under load, it's going to generate a lot more heat and remove deposits. Or, at least that is the theory. You could think of this in a similar way to how actually driving your car warms the car faster than letting it sit in park with the engine running. You're burning more fuel, which generates more heat, while the car is actually accelerating.
Revving in neutral, however, is asking the engine to do very little, and it will remain cold. It's also not moving your car at all - so you could argue it does nothing other than make sound. Revving in neutral is not good for your engine in any way.
The reason it's different from revving in neutral is that in neutral, there's nothing stopping the engine from rotating other than its own inertia, meaning there's no notable heat buildup. You need to heat the engine to have the "Italian tune-up" work. By putting the engine under load, it's going to generate a lot more heat and remove deposits. Or, at least that is the theory. You could think of this in a similar way to how actually driving your car warms the car faster than letting it sit in park with the engine running. You're burning more fuel, which generates more heat, while the car is actually accelerating.
Revving in neutral, however, is asking the engine to do very little, and it will remain cold. It's also not moving your car at all - so you could argue it does nothing other than make sound. Revving in neutral is not good for your engine in any way.
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s3v3n (01-30-20)
#612
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Italian tune up is just a funny way of saying driving your car hard, since I am guessing italians love to drive spiritedly.
The theory is a car that works hard keeps its internal parts hotter and free(er) of carbon build up.
Engineering explained channel put this to the test and more or less its correct, but it's not quite what people make it out to be,in terms of positive benefits for your car. Basically carbon still builds either way and for there to be a meaningful difference, you'd have to get your car extremely hot, hotter than most cooling systems would allow. And at that point, you're just creating add'l wear and tear that defeats the entire purpose of an italian tune up.
Moral of the story is just drive your car normally, often, and don't be afraid to "open her up" every once in a while.
Changing your oil and filters on time will yield much better results.
The theory is a car that works hard keeps its internal parts hotter and free(er) of carbon build up.
Engineering explained channel put this to the test and more or less its correct, but it's not quite what people make it out to be,in terms of positive benefits for your car. Basically carbon still builds either way and for there to be a meaningful difference, you'd have to get your car extremely hot, hotter than most cooling systems would allow. And at that point, you're just creating add'l wear and tear that defeats the entire purpose of an italian tune up.
Moral of the story is just drive your car normally, often, and don't be afraid to "open her up" every once in a while.
Changing your oil and filters on time will yield much better results.
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Jazzrock (01-30-20)
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Ok, I'll play dumb here as much as it pains me to say it. Where do you access the connectors for the o2 sensors wiring. I am thinking about installing a set of mid pipes I have laying around and would rather not twist the wires on them and risk damaging a sensor.
#614
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Does anyone know if Duplicolor makes a matching equivalent for NEBULA GRAY PEARL? If so, do you know the number? I looked online and and have seen 1H9(not Duplicolor) a few places, but would like to confirm.
Thanks to this forum I found the matching one to repair the small scratches on my wheels. Now, I'm looking to fix a few stone chips on my hood from the winter.
Thanks to this forum I found the matching one to repair the small scratches on my wheels. Now, I'm looking to fix a few stone chips on my hood from the winter.
#615
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I know what you are saying about twisting the wires to get the sensors out, but in fact they will be just fine.
The sensors only have a few threads on them anyways, so you don't need to twist the sensor wires too extreme.
Also between the wires and loom it's more than durable to survive a removal/install.