BigNuge

So it turns out the 2013 has no “relay”. Rather, it flashes right from the board, and the “clicking” sound is simulated from a small speaker in the dash.

I ended up doing load resistors up front. I extended the leads and mounted the resistors on the front of the upper core support (concealed under the plastic covers). I used thermal paste, the resistors stay much cooler than they did when I tested them hanging in the air! The install is clean and hidden, and most of all the lights flash normally.

In the end, I would have never done this LED conversion having known that I’d have to do the resistors. I assumed that the LED manufacturers had their act together and the fitment guides would point me in the right direction for a PNP solution....that is not the case.

Anyway, just wanted to pass the info along.

svnsales

The lower resistance of LEDs presents interesting challenges, particularly in vehicles with CANBUS or Digital Flasher systems. When manufacturers/suppliers haven't researched the vehicle they're working with, and try presenting a generic solution for all of them, these challenges tend to get in the way.

The PNP turn signal solution for vehicles with Digital Flasher systems (such as the 3rd gen IS) would be bulbs with inbuilt load resistors - the likes of which we use for vehicles without a replaceable relay.

jhs82

I might be being a dead horse here, but I think you should try this kind of resistors instead. Just plug and play. Since you have three wires, I suppose you have 7443 bulbs in the front. They're one circuit 5w and one 21w.

ex00

You need to find LED bulbs that can handle at least 2A as that is the issue I am seeing. Most are rated 1.8A which will work for one side only.