Any experience integrating aftermarket audio?
#1
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Does anyone on here have experience integrating aftermarket audio into a 2017 IS 300 F Sport 2 (w/out Mark Levinson system). How did your experience go? Any considerations or issues that were encountered along the way? Any loss in functionality at all (output/input, like microphone, etc.)? I am considering integrating my Mosconi D2 80.6 and Mosconi 500.1 to power the factory audio, and "retire" the stock sub-woofer in favor of an Audison Voce AV 10 sub. So far the only option I have found that seems to indicate that integration is possible relies on using a PAC AmpPRO AP4-TY12 but it says that it is not compatible with "Easy Speak". Any thoughts on this integration piece and any idea what "Easy Speak" is exactly?
All thoughts and comments are welcome. Struggling a bit in finding information about aftermarket audio builds on 2017 models and up.
All thoughts and comments are welcome. Struggling a bit in finding information about aftermarket audio builds on 2017 models and up.
#2
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I had a 2014, and i added an aftermarket amp and twin 12" subs. Just tapped into the stock sub wires off the stock amp, put them into a LOC, then into the amp. wired up power, ground, and remote wire. Sounds amazing. None of this should effect the microphone or any other features. I didnt lose any stock features. Couple tips I have are to make sure you know how to remove the pillar trims, they break super easily. Also whenever I wired my remote wire, I had to redo it a couple times, wrong fuseboxes. Use the fusebox under the steering wheel. I picked the windshield wiper fuse, that one turned off with the acc and on etc.
#3
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I don't think my 15' is350 has easy speak. Isnt that just using the microphone to talk to your rear passengers? seems like a fine idea on a minivan, but seems silly on a small sedan. It shouldn't affect any of those options. You should be good to add. I am planning a small system upgrade myself, but in small steps.
#5
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Thanks for the comments so far! I have been looking further into this and have learned recently that PAC AmpPRO AP4-TY12 is not compatible with any models past 2016 that have stock navigation. Therefore, this is out of the question now. There are not vehicle integration kits at all on the market right now for 2017 and newer vehicles that can bypass the stock system to implement an aftermarket setup, which is very concerning. My only option right now appears to be to use several line output converters like the PAC Audio LP5-4 to interface with the aftermarket stuff. I will do more investigation/consultation and see what I come up with. I am a bit surprised how difficult this has gotten. I have never had issues like this before.
#7
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Thanks for the clarification on that item. Appreciate it.
Found another tidbit of info in another thread about integrating Android Auto/Apple CarPlay that explains why the original PAC Amp setup doesn't work on 2017+ vehicles with navigation https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10310928.
In a nutshell, 2017+ vehicles have a digital signal output to the stock amp. This also means that line output converters would not work until after the stock amp, which means that I would have the signal amplified twice; no good at all. I'm going to speak to my shop about this but I have a feeling that this may not be possible to do the way I want, at least not for the time being. Need to further consider the implications of capturing the signal after the stock amp as well. If I have to do so, perhaps I should just integrate two audio systems with a physical switch that allows me to flip between stock and aftermarket. Getting a reasonably clean signal out of the stock amp will be a challenge. I'm starting to think I should have just looked at getting a Mark Levinson equipped vehicle to start :|
Found another tidbit of info in another thread about integrating Android Auto/Apple CarPlay that explains why the original PAC Amp setup doesn't work on 2017+ vehicles with navigation https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10310928.
In a nutshell, 2017+ vehicles have a digital signal output to the stock amp. This also means that line output converters would not work until after the stock amp, which means that I would have the signal amplified twice; no good at all. I'm going to speak to my shop about this but I have a feeling that this may not be possible to do the way I want, at least not for the time being. Need to further consider the implications of capturing the signal after the stock amp as well. If I have to do so, perhaps I should just integrate two audio systems with a physical switch that allows me to flip between stock and aftermarket. Getting a reasonably clean signal out of the stock amp will be a challenge. I'm starting to think I should have just looked at getting a Mark Levinson equipped vehicle to start :|
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#8
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take a look at the JL audio fix 86. I know someone else on the forum has used one. from the manuals it says it doesn't care what kind of signal you give it, it flattens it all out prior to adding an aftermarket amp even if it is amplified signal.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
#9
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take a look at the JL audio fix 86. I know someone else on the forum has used one. from the manuals it says it doesn't care what kind of signal you give it, it flattens it all out prior to adding an aftermarket amp even if it is amplified signal.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
#10
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take a look at the JL audio fix 86. I know someone else on the forum has used one. from the manuals it says it doesn't care what kind of signal you give it, it flattens it all out prior to adding an aftermarket amp even if it is amplified signal.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136981...SAAEgKtR_D_BwE
#11
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Dejan has a pile of Mosconi equipment so probably not a cost issue for him
.
I think it is expensive, but an important piece for good sound, even if it meant buying a lesser expensive amplifier. crap in=crap out for signal/sound.
I think that will be my plan. invest in a fix86, buy a cheaper amp that I can upgrade later.
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think it is expensive, but an important piece for good sound, even if it meant buying a lesser expensive amplifier. crap in=crap out for signal/sound.
I think that will be my plan. invest in a fix86, buy a cheaper amp that I can upgrade later.
#12
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Yeah, cost is not a factor generally speaking because I'm after optimal SQ. For now I am just looking to integrate my Mosconi gear if at all possible and then likely change to aftermarket speakers as well. There is so little information on my vehicle that I will likely just have to open things up and look at what's going on with the factory setup. Depending on what kind of digital connection is between the HU and the stock amp, I may actually be able to interface to my Mosconi D2 80.6 as it has optical in and out. If the connector is proprietary then I will be in real trouble, and it won't be possible to catch the signal until after the factory amp. I am looking at a few other processors as well now, without amplification, with the thought of just plugging in the DSP before the stock amp if possible (options are now Mosconi 8to12 Aerospace DSP, Helix DSP Pro MK2 which I can get a good deal on locally, the Audison Bit One HD, and the miniDSP C-DSP 8x12). The miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 supports a calibrated mic as well so I can actually do tuning the same way that I would do at home with Anthem ARC, Audyssey Multeq xt32 or similar. Every one offers optical as the digital interface so I hope that this is how the stock HU interfaces with the stock amp as well.
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sixbanger (12-26-18)
#13
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Did a bit of investigative work today and determined the amp model in my vehicle. The code on it was MSIP-REM-PNR-GM-4168, which is a Pioneer amp. According to info online, this is the same amp that was used on the 3IS since 2014. There does not appear to be any standard optical interface on it.
Edit: Okay, I think I got this figured out - finally. Seeing as I have almost no hope of bypassing the factory amp all-together, I am going to go with a LOC as per the suggestion earlier in this thread, tap the output of the stock amp, and then feed a low-voltage signal to my aftermarket DAC/amp. The LOC I am thinking to use is a high-end AudioControl LC8-i as it can handle 5.1 channel systems properly - it can take a mono center and sub signal - which means I can retain all of the channels of the factory system. I should then be able to feed my Mosconi D2 80.6 DSP/amp combo exactly as specified in the instructions for 5.1 systems posted here on the AudioControl website (see page 11). The Mosconi 500.1 will be hooked up to the line-out of the 80.6 and voila, I should be good to go. Time to discuss this with my shop tomorrow.
Edit: Okay, I think I got this figured out - finally. Seeing as I have almost no hope of bypassing the factory amp all-together, I am going to go with a LOC as per the suggestion earlier in this thread, tap the output of the stock amp, and then feed a low-voltage signal to my aftermarket DAC/amp. The LOC I am thinking to use is a high-end AudioControl LC8-i as it can handle 5.1 channel systems properly - it can take a mono center and sub signal - which means I can retain all of the channels of the factory system. I should then be able to feed my Mosconi D2 80.6 DSP/amp combo exactly as specified in the instructions for 5.1 systems posted here on the AudioControl website (see page 11). The Mosconi 500.1 will be hooked up to the line-out of the 80.6 and voila, I should be good to go. Time to discuss this with my shop tomorrow.
Last edited by dejanh; 12-25-18 at 10:18 PM.
#14
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Spoke to my shop today and they are insisting that there is no need to include a LOC, claiming that the introduction of the LOC will do more harm than good in the grand scheme of things. Any advice on whether I should feed a low voltage or a high voltage signal (Mosconi takes both)? I do know that high-voltage signal is more susceptible to noise but now I am weighing it against introduction of another component. I definitely had an issue with floor noise that I could not remove in my TL, hence my inclination to go back to using a low voltage signal. Time to get a second opinion tomorrow morning.
#15
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Spoke to my shop today and they are insisting that there is no need to include a LOC, claiming that the introduction of the LOC will do more harm than good in the grand scheme of things. Any advice on whether I should feed a low voltage or a high voltage signal (Mosconi takes both)? I do know that high-voltage signal is more susceptible to noise but now I am weighing it against introduction of another component. I definitely had an issue with floor noise that I could not remove in my TL, hence my inclination to go back to using a low voltage signal. Time to get a second opinion tomorrow morning.
I am hoping this all works out well for you and you can blaze a trail for the rest of us. good luck!