IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

Installing GS-F/RC-F front lower control arm bushing?

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Old 10-30-19, 12:33 PM
  #61  
Jazzrock
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I ordered the control arm bushings from Discount Parts Monster and should have them in a week to two weeks.
Old 11-06-19, 09:19 AM
  #62  
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I took in my 16 IS 200t F Sport to have the bushings installed today. My mechanic, who is very honest and professional, looked it up and said
that he would have to drop the control arms, and that the job would take 3.5 hours , according to what he looked up. I told him it shouldn't be
more than an hour, at the most, and that people have been doing it on their own in an hour. He said if it takes less time, I would be charged less.
Do the control arms have to be dropped to get to the bushings and does this take a good amount of time? I trust him and would like him to do
it, but don't want to get charged for that many hours of labor. Thanks a lot.
Old 11-06-19, 09:27 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Jazzrock
I took in my 16 IS 200t F Sport to have the bushings installed today. My mechanic, who is very honest and professional, looked it up and said
that he would have to drop the control arms, and that the job would take 3.5 hours , according to what he looked up. I told him it shouldn't be
more than an hour, at the most, and that people have been doing it on their own in an hour. He said if it takes less time, I would be charged less.
Do the control arms have to be dropped to get to the bushings and does this take a good amount of time? I trust him and would like him to do
it, but don't want to get charged for that many hours of labor. Thanks a lot.
Have your mechanic put it up on the lift and take a look.
Unless the 2016 IS 200t F Sport has a substantially different suspension setup, he'll see that there is nothing in the way.
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Old 11-06-19, 09:40 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Jazzrock
I took in my 16 IS 200t F Sport to have the bushings installed today. My mechanic, who is very honest and professional, looked it up and said
that he would have to drop the control arms, and that the job would take 3.5 hours , according to what he looked up. I told him it shouldn't be
more than an hour, at the most, and that people have been doing it on their own in an hour. He said if it takes less time, I would be charged less.
Do the control arms have to be dropped to get to the bushings and does this take a good amount of time? I trust him and would like him to do
it, but don't want to get charged for that many hours of labor. Thanks a lot.
The control arm does not need to be dropped at all. Once the bushing assembly is unbolted, the control arm has enough wiggle for the bushing to slide right off...and slide the new one on.
Not sure what he looked up, but the 2IS and 3IS have the same style bushing...all variants of the car.
Maybe he looked up the original IS300 (2001-2005), which is a completely different car.
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Old 11-06-19, 09:54 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Jazzrock
I took in my 16 IS 200t F Sport to have the bushings installed today. My mechanic, who is very honest and professional, looked it up and said
that he would have to drop the control arms, and that the job would take 3.5 hours , according to what he looked up. I told him it shouldn't be
more than an hour, at the most, and that people have been doing it on their own in an hour. He said if it takes less time, I would be charged less.
Do the control arms have to be dropped to get to the bushings and does this take a good amount of time? I trust him and would like him to do
it, but don't want to get charged for that many hours of labor. Thanks a lot.
No. He’s mistaken. And 1 hour is more than generous, my mechanic did it in 30 min from start to finish including lifting and dropping the car back down.
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Old 11-06-19, 10:10 AM
  #66  
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I don't know why he said it takes this length of time. He's familiar with the premature wearing tires issue as well. I will pass your information along to him.
Old 11-06-19, 03:18 PM
  #67  
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Are the torque numbers all the same for my RWD IS200t? Do they need anything beyond the 143 number for the bolts?
Old 11-06-19, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazzrock


Are the torque numbers all the same for my RWD IS200t? Do they need anything beyond the 143 number for the bolts?
The simple answer is that all 3IS AWD have the same torque specs, with regards to the LCA bushings...regardless of the engine in the vehicle.
All 3IS RWD have the same torque specs, with regards to the LCA bushings...regardless of the engine in the vehicle.
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Old 11-11-19, 12:18 PM
  #69  
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I just had the front LCA bushings installed. I got charged for one hour's labor, which I'm sure it didn't take. He's an honest, excellent, fair mechanic, so I'm not complaining.
He also said the rear alignment was out, so I had an alignment done as well. Driving it on a rough surface road, and on the freeway for two exits to my house, it's not that
much stiffer really. It's less stiff than my CLA was. Thanks for all the advice and I hope my tires last a good long time as a result!
Old 11-12-19, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jazzrock
I just had the front LCA bushings installed. I got charged for one hour's labor, which I'm sure it didn't take. He's an honest, excellent, fair mechanic, so I'm not complaining.
He also said the rear alignment was out, so I had an alignment done as well. Driving it on a rough surface road, and on the freeway for two exits to my house, it's not that
much stiffer really. It's less stiff than my CLA was. Thanks for all the advice and I hope my tires last a good long time as a result!
The difference between stock and RCF/GSF bushings was substantial for me. The car used to wander badly at any bends in the road, and especially under hard braking. It does not to that at all anymore. Tire wear is much more even now also.
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Old 11-22-19, 08:56 AM
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So i just had mine installed today. The mechanic had the car on the lift with a tall red jack stand in the center by the bushings. He torqued the bushings on the lift with this stand there. is this ok? was that him preloading the suspension? or should i have them re-torqued?

Last edited by oo10inz; 11-22-19 at 04:53 PM.
Old 11-23-19, 05:01 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by dteskmo
RR Racing also states in their instructions to do this. I questioned it as well, but there is no harm in doing it.
My guess is to avoid corrosion causing the sleeve to seize onto the shaft, but that's just a guess.

Originally Posted by oo10inz
So i just had mine installed today. The mechanic had the car on the lift with a tall red jack stand in the center by the bushings. He torqued the bushings on the lift with this stand there. is this ok? was that him preloading the suspension? or should i have them re-torqued?
Were the wheels at ride height or were they drooping? If the wheels were not at static ride height they need to be re-torqued.
Old 11-23-19, 05:16 PM
  #73  
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^^^^Actually RRR specifies the lube to use, and if you can't find it, they will supply it to you, a courtesy. They told me it was to control noise (squeaking) that can come from an unlubricated bushing. Also, with time, it may be necessary to relubricate. With that being said, I had the RRR units on my ISF for over 4 years before I sold it. IMHO, it was a GREAT modification

Lou
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Old 02-15-20, 01:43 PM
  #74  
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Can anyone who's installed these comment on how nut on top of the subframe for the inner bushing bolt (17mm wrench) is retained? Is there a hex pattern in the subframe casting to keep that nut from spinning freely? On the drivers side for the IS200t it doesn't look like there is any clearance for a wrench to hold the nut when tightening the bolt due to the exhaust.
Old 02-15-20, 02:36 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by octagon
Can anyone who's installed these comment on how nut on top of the subframe for the inner bushing bolt (17mm wrench) is retained? Is there a hex pattern in the sub-frame casting to keep that nut from spinning freely? On the drivers side for the IS200t it doesn't look like there is any clearance for a wrench to hold the nut when tightening the bolt due to the exhaust.
It's been about 6 months since I installed mine, but if I am remembering correctly, once you break that 17mm bolt loose, it will spin freely because there is a nut on the top side, but you should be able to fit your hand in around to the top and hold the nut and back the bolt out. Same for putting it back in. If you hold it until it starts to get hand tight it will 'grab' because it has, I don't know the technical term, but the bolt has something like little teeth on one side that will grab what it being tightened to and from there you can tighten it the rest of the way with a socket and torque to spec.

Note: If you have the car lifted and the wheels are not at normal ride height, such as on jack-stands or a lift that suspends the car with the frame rather than the wheels, then do not torque to spec until the wheels are in normal position, just tighten them snugly and wait till the wheels are planted before you torque to spec. I personally did this part on a aliment rack lift. But any lift where you pull your wheels on to it, or using some ramps, you would be fine to torque them to spec. If your only option is on jack-stands, or a lift that raises it by the frame with the wheels drooping. Then just snug them up semi tight, then plant the car on the ground and you can reach the bolts with a decent length torque wrench just laying on the ground next to the car to torque them to the right spec.

I hope this makes sense, this install is super easy and took me about 30 minutes total, but I did have it on a lift, it could easily be done in your driveway or garage on jack-stands or ramps if you are not a large man and can fit under it.

Here is a pic of what I mean by reaching your hand around to hold the bolt:


Last edited by whoismiked; 02-15-20 at 05:01 PM.


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