Spark Plugs Change or not at 60K?
07-08-20, 07:17 AM
#46
Pole Position
Yeah 20k mile difference is a bit but nothing crazy. 100k to 40k is crazy haha but I understand that the I4 Turbo has much higher pressures etc due to forced induction so it makes sense.
07-08-20, 07:47 AM
#47
KCLV is in 18 range and not even going to 20. When I did a seafoam to intake manifold last week, I get a lot of white/brownish smoke. Doing it again this week before getting the plugs done.
07-08-20, 11:01 PM
#49
Lead Lap
07-09-20, 10:34 AM
#50
Instructor
I’m going to do my plugs ASAP, so I know I’m not getting screwed by the shop can someone tell me approximately how long it takes from start to finish to change the plugs on a 2015 350?
thanks!
thanks!
07-09-20, 10:48 AM
#52
Instructor
07-09-20, 10:55 AM
#53
Intermediate
It was not that bad. Seriously. Im not sure of the experience level of those who found it difficult. But once you remove the air intake tube (2 worm screws and disconnect 1 hose) you have open access on the passenger side. On the drivers side, just remove the 10mm bolt at the rear securing the wire loom and unplug a connector at the front and the wire loom is flexible enough to get access to the coil packs and plugs. Do one at a time and use copper antiseize (just a thin smear on lower threads) and some dielectric grease on rubber boot/plug contact. Torque them to 12 ft# and move on. 45 minutes tops.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Craftsman Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
Im a bit nervous about using seafoam on this engine. With a ~12:1 compression, yikes. I would not risk hydrolock. Thats just me.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Craftsman Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
Im a bit nervous about using seafoam on this engine. With a ~12:1 compression, yikes. I would not risk hydrolock. Thats just me.
Last edited by Drcoffee; 07-09-20 at 11:04 AM.
07-09-20, 11:02 AM
#54
Instructor
It was not that bad. Seriously. Im not sure of the experience level of those who found it difficult. But once you remove the air intake tube (2 worm screws and disconnect 1 hose) you have open access on the passenger side. On the drivers side, just remove the 10mm bolt at the rear securing the wire loom and unplug a connector at the front and the wire loom is flexible enough to get access to the cool packs and plugs. Do one at a time and use copper antiseize (just a thin smear on lower threads) and some dielectric grease on rubber boot/plug contact. Torque them to 12# and move on. 45 minute tops.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
07-09-20, 11:38 AM
#56
Lexus Test Driver
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The 350 takes way less time to do than the 250.
If it's you're first time, allot 2 hours to be on the safe side and just take your time...it's not a race for anyone to win.
If anyone with the 250 is wondering, the intake manifold has to come off to do the driver side plugs. I would allot 3 hours in this case...or a little more.
If it's you're first time, allot 2 hours to be on the safe side and just take your time...it's not a race for anyone to win.
If anyone with the 250 is wondering, the intake manifold has to come off to do the driver side plugs. I would allot 3 hours in this case...or a little more.
07-09-20, 12:01 PM
#57
I already did it and it also scared me a bit when the engine went limp mode (ultra quiet). It sounds like the engine was really drowning and about to die, but held up and didn't. Doing it again coz I got lots of dirty white and super white smoke the first time.
07-09-20, 08:31 PM
#58
It was not that bad. Seriously. Im not sure of the experience level of those who found it difficult. But once you remove the air intake tube (2 worm screws and disconnect 1 hose) you have open access on the passenger side. On the drivers side, just remove the 10mm bolt at the rear securing the wire loom and unplug a connector at the front and the wire loom is flexible enough to get access to the coil packs and plugs. Do one at a time and use copper antiseize (just a thin smear on lower threads) and some dielectric grease on rubber boot/plug contact. Torque them to 12 ft# and move on. 45 minutes tops.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Craftsman Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
Im a bit nervous about using seafoam on this engine. With a ~12:1 compression, yikes. I would not risk hydrolock. Thats just me.
*use compressed air to blow out spark plug tubes before removing plugs.
if you are new to this, go buy a good torque wrench. Craftsman Beam type is just fine. You will need at least a 6” ratchet extension. I found 1/4” ratchet worked better On the 10mm bolts. 3/8” on the plugs.
Im a bit nervous about using seafoam on this engine. With a ~12:1 compression, yikes. I would not risk hydrolock. Thats just me.
07-09-20, 08:55 PM
#59
Instructor
I seafoamed a 2001 prelude but don’t know if I could do it to my IS. Not sure the risk is worth the reward. How scared were u when you were doing it? Did you go super slow and steady?
07-10-20, 08:38 AM
#60
Intermediate
10:1 should be okay. Fluid is not compressible and a 12:1 comp ratio risks breaking pistons and rings with hydrolock.