Help with Speakers
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Help with Speakers
I have a 2015 Lexus IS250 F Sport and i been looking into upgrade the stock door speakers to aftermarket ones. I know it will require an 4 channel amp to get the best sound quality and bass out of them. I dont want to install a subwoofer .Can it be done and how difficult will it be? What else do i need to get it done? And any suggestions on Speakers? Cartoys wanted to do my car for $3k-4k saying that it needs more than just speakers and amps which requires to redo the stereo system with chip that cost $800.
#2
Lexus Test Driver
From what i remember researching this on my own years ago is that it's not reasonably possible.unless someone has come up w/ a solution since. this is common in the era of cars w/ fancy infotainment systems. short of highly customized aftermrket proprietary plug and play stuff, you're usually stuck with what you got.
you won't have access to full range signal so anything you install is going to sound like poo. And you certainly won't be installing an amp.i believe the stock HU internally filters signals before getting to the amp.
the device you're referring to is some sort of "clean" sweep module. but then you'll have all these boxes everywhere and it just gets messy and expensive. and you're still stuck with a dirty source signal so not sure the result would be all that great.
you won't have access to full range signal so anything you install is going to sound like poo. And you certainly won't be installing an amp.i believe the stock HU internally filters signals before getting to the amp.
the device you're referring to is some sort of "clean" sweep module. but then you'll have all these boxes everywhere and it just gets messy and expensive. and you're still stuck with a dirty source signal so not sure the result would be all that great.
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I have a 2015 Lexus IS250 F Sport and i been looking into upgrade the stock door speakers to aftermarket ones. I know it will require an 4 channel amp to get the best sound quality and bass out of them. I dont want to install a subwoofer .Can it be done and how difficult will it be? What else do i need to get it done? And any suggestions on Speakers? Cartoys wanted to do my car for $3k-4k saying that it needs more than just speakers and amps which requires to redo the stereo system with chip that cost $800.
#5
Both @kaczy15 and @E46CT are correct. Lexus (and Toyota) sends a proprietary signal to the amp which not only carries audio, it carries other signals as well. If your disconnect the amp (usually separate from HU), the HU will know and you'll not see volume increase on your display if you try to turn up volume.
You've 2 options -
All colors are the wire colors I found in my car. Note that this is the non-ML version and the sub-woofer is dual voice coil sub.
Initially I changed the speakers to JBLs (later on I replaced them front door speakers with Martin Logan - same size I found for cheap on eBay).
If you're interested in doing more than speaker upgrades, I can try to work with you if you'd like.
You've 2 options -
- settle for speaker upgrades only
- Use speaker out to a sound processor if you really want to get better sound.
All colors are the wire colors I found in my car. Note that this is the non-ML version and the sub-woofer is dual voice coil sub.
Initially I changed the speakers to JBLs (later on I replaced them front door speakers with Martin Logan - same size I found for cheap on eBay).
If you're interested in doing more than speaker upgrades, I can try to work with you if you'd like.
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KOAKEKAI (03-24-21)
#6
Driver School Candidate
Do you have the ML system? If not, you can use a DSR1 (https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IDy9Ia...gate-DSR1.html) off the factory amplifier harness and feed the output from the DSR to your 4 channel amp, and tap back into the factory wiring to the speakers for the output. The nice thing about the DSR1 is you'll keep all the warning chimes, nav, factory volume **** and stuff and it will give you a DSP that will (supposedly) clean up the factory signal so it's flat, and then you can use the EQ to tweak everything so you can get the best sound.
#7
Just found a post - you may have seen it already.
Replacing speakers is not that bad - you need to know how to take out the door panels - there may be 3-4 bolts and possibly 2 hidden. One hidden behind the lock and another on inner door handle. If you're handy, poke around and you'll find it. A car trim removal tool may come in handy. You'll need to take out 2 cables for car door lock.
Lexus stock speakers are built in a plastic box.
In my case, I cut out the stock speakers and and glued the JBL on top in their place. Then soldered the speaker wires to the connectors in the box.
Replacing dash tweeters is very straightforward too.
In HS, both dash tweeters and front door speakers are fed by "front 2" signal with a simple high-pass capacitor for dash tweeter (pathetic). My JBLs were components and I had to put the crossover in the same hole as the dash tweeter to be able to feed tweeter and woofer properly.
Rear door was not that complex - just screw the crossover to the body underneath door panels.
I'm sorry if I'm making it sound like a lot of work. But if you're into it - it worth it
Replacing speakers is not that bad - you need to know how to take out the door panels - there may be 3-4 bolts and possibly 2 hidden. One hidden behind the lock and another on inner door handle. If you're handy, poke around and you'll find it. A car trim removal tool may come in handy. You'll need to take out 2 cables for car door lock.
Lexus stock speakers are built in a plastic box.
In my case, I cut out the stock speakers and and glued the JBL on top in their place. Then soldered the speaker wires to the connectors in the box.
Replacing dash tweeters is very straightforward too.
In HS, both dash tweeters and front door speakers are fed by "front 2" signal with a simple high-pass capacitor for dash tweeter (pathetic). My JBLs were components and I had to put the crossover in the same hole as the dash tweeter to be able to feed tweeter and woofer properly.
Rear door was not that complex - just screw the crossover to the body underneath door panels.
I'm sorry if I'm making it sound like a lot of work. But if you're into it - it worth it
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Hey man I see you've done a lot of research here, Im trying to install a DSR1 into my IS 250 (2015) and I ran into a problem. Not sure if you're familiar with dsr1, but they make separate vehicle specific harness that you can plug right into the factory amp harness. The only harness they make for my vehicle fits the f43 and not f24 which is what I have. Would you happen to know how I can reconfigure and splice the wires from that connector to make it work, or another way that I can hook up a DSP to the factory audio inputs? Also what is the WFs for on the left side of the connector? Thanks!
#9
Driver School Candidate
All colors are the wire colors I found in my car. Note that this is the non-ML version and the sub-woofer is dual voice coil sub.
Initially I changed the speakers to JBLs (later on I replaced them front door speakers with Martin Logan - same size I found for cheap on eBay).
If you're interested in doing more than speaker upgrades, I can try to work with you if you'd like.
Hey man I see you've done a lot of research here, Im trying to install a DSR1 into my IS 250 (2015) and I ran into a problem. Not sure if you're familiar with dsr1, but they make separate vehicle specific harness that you can plug right into the factory amp harness. The only harness they make for my vehicle fits the f43 and not f24 which is what I have. Would you happen to know how I can reconfigure and splice the wires from that connector to make it work, or another way that I can hook up a DSP to the factory audio inputs? Also what is the WFs for on the left side of the connector? Thanks!
#10
Intermediate
From what I have researched, if you have a non ML audio system without Navigation, your best bet to upgrade the audio is using a Rockford Fosgate Masetro DSR-1 with a five channel amp at the minimum powering a set of tweeters in the dash, mids in the door and a subwoofer.
Easy setup up using your phone.
From what I understand, this integration unit replaces the factory amp so you don't need to run a summing network processor and de EQ everything after the stock amp using an Audio Control LC6i or JL Audio fix 86, which is complicated and a lot of work and headache.
Edit because of an added thought: you would need another separate processor for active crossovers, EQ and time alignment with the AC and JL pieces.
Easy setup up using your phone.
From what I understand, this integration unit replaces the factory amp so you don't need to run a summing network processor and de EQ everything after the stock amp using an Audio Control LC6i or JL Audio fix 86, which is complicated and a lot of work and headache.
Edit because of an added thought: you would need another separate processor for active crossovers, EQ and time alignment with the AC and JL pieces.
Last edited by 387; 03-24-21 at 08:49 PM.
#12
Driver School Candidate
#13
Driver School Candidate
I have the Rockford dsr1 and I have the appropriate harness (AT02) for it , but I think the navigation is what makes the connector to the factory amp different so it doesn’t plug into the dsr1 harness. Idk if there’s another way I can wire it up?
#14
Hey man I see you've done a lot of research here, Im trying to install a DSR1 into my IS 250 (2015) and I ran into a problem. Not sure if you're familiar with dsr1, but they make separate vehicle specific harness that you can plug right into the factory amp harness. The only harness they make for my vehicle fits the f43 and not f24 which is what I have. Would you happen to know how I can reconfigure and splice the wires from that connector to make it work, or another way that I can hook up a DSP to the factory audio inputs? Also what is the WFs for on the left side of the connector? Thanks!
I wasn't aware of all this new technology of iDataLink. Thanks for bringing this up - I know more now :-)
I hope you've figured out all this by now.
The two connectors are speaker out connectors from the factory amp. These should not have anything to do with DSR-1. There is a third connector on the factory amp which, I believe, takes input from the HU. DSR-1 should have a harness to connect to that and feed the input into it. I don't have a lot of knowledge on DSR-1 but from what I've seen, it then has RCA out connectors that you can feed into an aftermarket amp.
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PearlLex
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